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JOE TILDEN'S RECIPES FOR EPICURES

Introductory Note

Major Joseph Tilden was in his time one of the most famous Bohemians and epicureans of the Pacific Coast. Ever since his death his many friends have been trying to learn the culinary secrets which made a repast of his devising so delicious. He had given his recipes to but few, and those few his most intimate friends and fellow spirits. One of the most favored of his old companions has given this complete collection of his recipes for publication.

San Francisco, May, 1907.

SOUPS AND CHOWDERS

Onion Soup

Place six ounces of butter in a large saucepan over the fire, and stir into it four large white onions cut up, not sliced. Stew this very slowly for one hour, stirring frequently to prevent its scorching. Add salt, pepper, cayenne, and about one quart of stock, and cook one hour longer. Then stir into the mixture one and a half cups of milk and simmer for a few minutes. Have ready a soup tureen. In it beat the yolks of four eggs with two tablespoons of grated Parmesan cheese. Stir the hot soup into this, beating until it thickens a little. A slice of toasted French bread should be placed in each plate, and the soup poured over it.

Palestine Soup

Slice two or three Jerusalem artichokes and place in two quarts of boiling water. Cook for one and one-half hours. Then rub the artichokes through a colander and add to them one pint of the water in which they were boiled. Stir in two tablespoonfuls of flour rubbed into the same amount of butter. Add two cups of milk and boil for ten minutes. Season with salt and pepper and serve with croutons.

Black Bean Soup

Soak over night one quart of black turtle beans in water to cover them. In the morning strain and boil them in four quarts of water for one hour, skimming frequently. Then put into the liquor two white onions sliced, two stalks of celery cut into bits, salt, pepper, cayenne, and one teaspoonful each of cloves and allspice. Boil for three hours. Remove from the stove and add enough stock to thin the mixture to the consistency of a cream soup. Pour into it nearly a tumbler of sherry and add a thinly sliced lime. Place over the fire to boil for five minutes. Just before serving stir into the soup three hard-boiled eggs, finely chopped. Force meat balls may be added.

Parker House Tomato Soup

Put into a saucepan five pounds of tomatoes, either fresh or canned, with one quart of water, salt, pepper, cayenne, one and one-half tablespoonfuls of sugar, and three ounces of butter, rubbed into one heaping tablespoonful of flour. Cook slowly one hour. Remove from the fire and rub through a sieve. Place over the fire again and add one and one-half tablespoonfuls of rice flour which has been dissolved in a little water. Let it come to a boil, when it is ready to serve.

Celery Soup

Boil one small cupful of rice in three pints of milk, or two pints of milk and one of cream, until it is tender. Then rub it through a sieve and add one quart of veal stock, salt, cayenne, and three heads of celery which have been previously grated. Boil until the celery is tender.

Bisque of Prawns or Shrimps

Boil three dozen prawns twenty minutes in salted water to cover them. Meanwhile in two small tablespoonfuls of butter, fry an onion and a carrot sliced, and a small piece of salt pork chopped. Take the prawns out of the boiling water and add to it the fried mixture with salt, pepper, a bunch of sweet herbs and one-half the prawns added again. Simmer one hour. Pound the shells of the prawns in a mortar with a little butter, to form a smooth paste. Stir this into the soup and boil twenty minutes. Strain through a sieve. Add one quart of milk and one teaspoonful of cornstarch stirred into a little of the cold milk. Let it boil up, and serve. It should be as thick as rich cream.

Lobster Soup

Pick the meat from a five pound lobster and pound it in a mortar, adding from time to time a little milk or cream. When perfectly smooth, add two teaspoonfuls of salt, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley , cayenne and mace. Take out enough to make a dozen small balls, mix this with the yolk of an egg and fry it in butter. Mix the rest of the pounded lobster with two quarts of milk and rub through a sieve. Put this in a saucepan and simmer ten minutes. Add two ounces of butter and stir until melted and smooth. Pour over the fried balls in the tureen and serve very hot.

Venison Soup

Cut six pounds of lean venison into medium sized pieces and place in a soup kettle with two gallons of cold water, to which add two dozen cloves and four blades of mace. Boil slowly three hours. Then add two pounds of venison, cut into pieces about an inch square and one dozen force meat balls. Boil for thirty minutes. Then season with salt, pepper, cayenne, and half a glass of lime juice, letting the soup cook ten minutes longer. It should be served in hot bowls in each of which is poured a half glass of port before serving. Crisp croutons may be added.

Puree of Venison

Cut up the remains of venison that had been roasted for a former dinner, put a few slices of ham into a stew pan, then the venison, two whole onions, a blade of mace, two quarts of stock, and a small piece of a sprig of thyme, parsley, and two cloves. Set it on the stove to simmer, two hours or more. Strain it off, and pull all the meat to pieces. Pound it with the lean ham that was boiled with it, the crust of two French rolls which has been soaked in consomme. Rub the whole through a colander with a glass of claret or port and enough consomme to bring it to the consistency of cream. Put it back on the fire in a double boiler. Stir a little butter into it, and serve with bread fried in dice.

Clear Soup Stock

To four pounds of beef add six quarts of cold water and place over the fire. Just before it boils, skim it carefully. Then add two cups of cold water and skim again, repeating this for a third skimming. Allow it to simmer slowly for three hours. Then add the vegetables; eight ounces each of cut up carrots, onions and turnips, and three ounces of celery, with salt and pepper. Simmer three hours longer. The stock should be strained before using, and while cooking it should not be allowed to boil.

Daniel Webster's Chowder

Fry with some slices of pork, four tablespoonfuls of sliced onions, to a light brown. Put them in a deep iron pot with six pounds of cod sliced, one quart of boiled mashed potatoes, one pound and a half of broken sea biscuit, fifty oysters, one teaspoonful of thyme, one teaspoonful of summer savory, one-half a bottle of mushroom catsup, one bottle of port or claret, one-half a nutmeg, one dozen cloves, a little mace and allspice, one half a lemon sliced, pepper and salt. Cover with one inch of water and cook slowly until done.

Scott's Chowder

Cover the bottom of a deep pot with slices of pork cut very thin. Add a layer of fish sliced and seasoned with salt and pepper, a layer of onions parboiled and quartered, a layer of tomatoes sliced and seasoned, a layer of thickly sliced potatoes and a layer of broken sea biscuit. Repeat the layers until the pot is filled. Just cover the fish with water and cook one hour very slowly. Add one pint of claret, cook one-half hour longer and serve.

Marblehead Chowder

Cut half a pound of salt pork into dice and place two-thirds of it in a deep saucepan; fry a light brown. Remove it and in the fat fry two large onions sliced. Cover the bottom of the pot with slices of raw cod or bass mixed with some of the fried pork and onions. On this place another layer of sliced fish mixed with a few pieces of raw pork, and slices of raw onion, salt and pepper; over this a layer of sliced raw potatoes. Repeat these layers until the pot is about two-thirds full, when the mixture should be covered with warm water, or preferably a stock made of the heads and tails of the fish. After the chowder comes to a boil, let it cook for forty-five minutes. Then add some broken sea biscuit, and boil fifteen minutes longer. In another saucepan place a quart of milk and heat it to the boiling point. Then stir into it two ounces of flour rubbed into two ounces of butter. When it thickens a little, pour it over the chowder and serve.

The recipe will take about four pounds of fish, half a pound of pork, six onions, six potatoes, four sea biscuits, two ounces each of butter and flour and a quart of milk.

Clam Chowder I

Have one hundred clams still in the shell. Boil them in a quart of water until the shells open. Take the clams out of the kettle, saving the water in which they were boiled. Remove them from the shells, discarding all but the soft part. Take six slices of salt pork and cut into dice. Fry until crisp and a light brown. Remove from the saucepan and in the fat fry four onions sliced. Then add the water strained from the clams and the fried pork. To this add six potatoes cut in small pieces and two green peppers chopped or finely sliced. Boil the mixture fifteen minutes before putting in the clams and four sea biscuits, broken into pieces. Then boil for fifteen minutes longer and add a quart of milk. Have half a cup of bread crumbs rubbed into four ounces of butter. Stir this in as the chowder heats after the milk has been added. When it boils, it is ready to serve.

Clam Chowder II

In a saucepan fry two slices of salt pork and when brown, add four potatoes and four onions cut up. Fry ten minutes and add three pints of water, salt and pepper. Boil for half an hour. Then add one quart of clams from which the tough portions have been removed. Also two sea biscuits which have been soaked until they are soft. Cook ten minutes. For this recipe, canned clams may be used.

Force Meat Balls for Chowder

Take the meat of a good sized crab, a tumblerful of shrimps and a clove of garlic. Chop all very fine and make into small force meat balls with a beaten egg. Fry them a light brown in butter, and serve in any fish chowder or soup.

FISH

Oysters a la Marechale

Stew very gently in four ounces of butter some thinly sliced truffles and mushrooms. After cooking ten minutes add salt, white pepper, cayenne and mace. Stir in four large tablespoonfuls of flour and mix well together while it thickens. Put in the liquor of the oysters which has been scalded and skimmed. Then add milk enough to make it as thick as cream. Take from the fire and stir in the yolks of four eggs beaten well with the juice of a lime and a tablespoonful of water.

Cover each oyster thickly with some of the mixture and allow it to cool. Then roll twice in beaten egg and bread crumbs. Fry to a light brown in butter and serve very hot.

Toasted Angels

Sprinkle cayenne and a few drops of lime juice over as many large oysters as are required, then wrap each oyster in a thin strip of bacon or fat salt pork. Fasten with a wooden tooth-pick and broil until the bacon is crisp. Serve very hot on squares of buttered toast.

Oyster Pat?s

Rub together one ounce of butter and one teaspoonful of flour. Melt this in a saucepan and add salt, mace and cayenne. Stir gently a few minutes, until smooth. Then add slowly four tablespoonfuls of cream. Strain two dozen oysters and add the liquor very slowly, stirring all the time. When it boils up, put in the oysters, cook three minutes and fill the pat? shells. Serve very hot.

Scalloped Clams

Wash clean one hundred clams. Use soft part whole and the tough part chopped fine. Put a layer on the bottom of a buttered baking dish. Season with salt, pepper, cayenne and a little mace and sprinkle over plenty of stale bread crumbs and a quantity of bits of butter. Repeat the layers until the dish is full. Put plenty of butter on top and pour in a cup of the water from the clams. Bake in a moderate oven one hour, and when half done pour in a tumbler of sherry.

Shrimp or Oyster Curry

Melt four ounces of butter and fry in it four young onions and a clove of garlic chopped. Add the juice of two limes. Stir into this one teaspoonful of corn starch, two tablespoonfuls of curry powder and half a cup of cream with salt, pepper and cayenne. Stir this rapidly over the fire until very thick. Thin with milk until it is the proper consistency, then add a large cup of picked shrimps, and as many oysters. Cook two minutes after it boils.

Shrimps a la Bordelaise

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