Read Ebook: In Paradise: A Novel. Vol. II by Heyse Paul

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Ebook has 1133 lines and 123387 words, and 23 pages

Objects of the Trip--Albany, situation and appearance--Erie canal basin--western travellers--rail road--canal boats, packets, line boats and scows--accommodations--number of boats--mode of passing each other--tow-pathbridges--accident in crossing--Erie canal--Villages and grog-shops--Trenton falls--Ithaca falls--Taghcanic falls--Rochester--canal aqueduct--Genesee falls--Sam Patch's last leap--flouring mills--Lockport--double canal locks--deep cut--arrival at Buffalo. Page, 13

The city of Buffalo--steamboat on the Niagara river--Fort Erie--Black Rock--visit to Niagara falls--Canada shore--Manchester--State of New-York--emigration--return to Buffalo--different routes to the West--passage in steamboat--Cleaveland--Maumee--Monroe--number of emigrants--vessels on the lake--Detroit--the Canada shore--ferry boats. 25

Chicago, a general description thereof--Pottawattomie tribe of Indians, their appearance and actions--the land back of Chicago--the lakes and their original outlet through the Illinois river--character of the inhabitants of Chicago--house rent and provisions. 43

Trip to Fox river--fellow travellers--river Oplane--Du Page river and Naper's settlement--big and little woods--pleasant settlement of emigrants--Fox river--upper house--lost in a prairie at night--log house--travelling towards Rock river--gravel hills--Walker's grove. 51

General description of the north part of Illinois--various kinds of trees--prairies--excellent coal--government grant of land--unsurveyed land settled upon--pre-emption right--not subject to fever and ague--wild game--prairie wolves and mode of killing them--prairie rattle snakes, blackbirds and squirrels--manner of judging of a new country--anecdote of a Vermont emigrant--New-Hampshire emigrant--statements of settlers and landholders not always to be credited. 57

Holderman's Grove--Ottawa--junction of Fox and Illinois rivers--Hennipen--Princeton--present and past situation of an emigrant--massacre of Elijah Philips by the Indians, and the fortunate escape of his companions. 66

Peoria--beauty of the surrounding country--fever and ague--scholars studying aloud in school--stages from Peoria--anecdote of a tavern keeper--Illinois river--passage down it in a steamboat--narrow lakes--high bluffs--Pekin--Beardstown--Naples--arrival at upper Alton. 74

General description of the state of Illinois--streams skirted with timber--more than half prairie--a level State--generally rich soil--American bottom--military bounty lands--beautiful region of Sangamon river--the best tracts of land in the State--more good land than any other State--cause of the existence of prairies--country once inhabited by a civilized race anterior to the Indians--its rivers, Kankakee, Oplane, Du Page, Fox, Illinois, Rock, Spoon, Kaskaskia, Wabash, &c.--lead mines--productions--milk-sickness--chief towns--schools, &c. 79

Burning of the prairies--backwoodsmen--society--meeting-houses and school-houses--what kind of goods an emigrant ought to take with him--cheapness of provisions--manner of commencing a settlement--ploughing the prairies--guarding the improvements against the prairie fires--junction of the Missouri with the Mississippi--arrival at St. Louis--a description of the town--steam ferry boat. 92

General description of the state of Missouri--south part generally barren, or wet and unhealthy--soil not muddy--prairie on the Mississippi--banks of the Missouri--large prairies destitute of wood and water--productions--prairie blossoms--wild animals, snakes, &c.--dryness and purity of the atmosphere--diseases--mildness of the winter--lead mines and minerals--chief towns. 99

Voyage down the Mississippi in a steamboat--high bluffs--screw auger grist mills--shot towers--curiosities--dangers of the Mississippi navigation--narrow escape--run aground on a sand bar--mouth of the Ohio--cargo of the boat--amusements on board--history of one of the ladies--"Queen of the Nile"--description of the steamboat--price of passage--wooding the boat--ludicrous fracas on board--noise of the boats, &c.--peculiarities of expression of the western people--names of money. 107

Independent frankness of the western people--eastern people--towns on the river--great earthquake at New Madrid--bluffs on the river--woodcutters--serpentine course of the Mississippi--negro slaves on board--one died of the cholera--benefit of steamboat navigation--flat boats still in use. 119

Arrival at Natchez--description of the city--starts for Texas with another traveller--cotton plantations--description of the cotton plant--passage through the great Mississippi swamp--cypress knees, water and mud--Tensaw river--overtaken by night in the swamp--gloomy situation--lake Lovelace--planter's house on Indian mound--mildness of the weather--good accommodations--travelling in a right spirit--anecdote of a testy traveller. 125

Outlet of the lake--Washita river--Harrisonburg--pine woods--description of a planter--Red River rightly named--changes at its mouth--arrival at Alexandria and description of the place--race-course and horses--death of a gambler--fruit trees and vegetables--moschetoes. 134

Bayou Rapide--fine cotton plantations--stream running in opposite directions--accompanied by another traveller--pine woods--planter's house--price of meals, &c.--Spanish moss--bottom land covered with dense forest--pine woods--the widow's house--manner of lodging travellers--inquisitiveness of the people--emigrants to Texas--Sabine river. 139

Arrival in Texas--oak openings and prairies--plantations of corn and cotton--St. Augustine--arrival at Nacogdoches--its grotesque appearance--Indian trade in deer pelts--Galveston bay and Texas land company--four leagues of land for a dog--pine woods--Indian mounds--mounds in Ohio, Missouri and Illinois--Monastery near a mound--their origin and use--Neches river--new made bridge. 149

Leave the pine woods--wet prairie--Trinity river--planter's house--death of an emigrant's wife--perplexities of emigration--an emigrant lost his money--breach of trust in a hired man--beautiful prairies--muddy streams--red cedar--petrified wood--mode of grinding corn--living from hand to mouth--beautiful prospect--Indians on horseback--massacre of twenty Polanders--muddy swamp--Brazos river--Spanish trader--Indians more friendly to Americans than Spaniards--prairie country--Cole's settlement--live oak--Colorado river. 160

GENERAL VIEW OF TEXAS--herds of buffalo and wild horses--mustangs, manner of catching--seacoast flat--Galveston bay and Texas land company--burning of the prairies--fine grazing country--wildgame--deer-hunting--shooting deer in the night--productions of the soil--list of forest trees--Spanish moss--health of the country and climate. 169

Rivers of Texas--seacoast--mill-seats--land grants--number of inhabitants--exports--inhabitants indolent--cheapness of land and manner of obtaining it--reptiles and animals--panther--flies--moschetoes--Indian tribes--water too warm. 182

Towns in Texas--Spanish villages--Mexican garrisons--Texas--mechanics--Texas and Cohahuila united--courts of law--professional men--unlawful punishments--salt lake--negroes indented--boundaries of Texas--general appearance of the country--rainy season--roads and carriages--emigration. 196

Emigrants unhappy--Mexican republic unsettled--Col. Austin--imprisonment--Texians slandered--healthy portions of the country--what an emigrant ought to take with him--price of stock--mail routes--currency--best spot in Texas--emigrant puzzled--how property may be acquired. 204

Arrival at San Felipe--billiard room--gambler shot--bloody affray about a lady--ten men to one woman in the country--arrival at Columbia and Bell's landing--started down river in a canoe--Brazoria--went on board a vessel--hunting excursion of the mate--Brazos river--Velasco--sandy beach. 213

Passed over the bar and left Texas--reasons for emigrating in the fall--means for going to Texas--speculation--passengers on board--sea sickness--vessel run aground--Mississippi steam tow-boats--sugar plantations and negroes--making sugar. 222

City of New-Orleans--vessels in port--muddy streets and filthy gutters--houses of dissipation--character of the inhabitants--resort of knaves and vagabonds--ship yards--canal and railroad--no wharves. 228

Start down the river--nunnery--battle-ground--negro slavery--the situation of the negroes--general views on the subject. 235

GENERAL DESCRIPTION of the MISSISSIPPI RIVER--its source--its tributaries--Wisconsin and Illinois--Missouri, its source and tributaries--gates of the Rocky mountains--Ohio river, its general character and appearance--White, Arkansas and Red rivers--outlets of the Mississippi--falls of St. Anthony--Dacota Indian woman--river banks--width of the stream and depth of water--Mississippi swamp--serpentine course--color of the waters--the most interesting river in the world. 246

Sail for Boston--sea voyage disagreeable to a landsman--change of scenery--Chatham, Boston--arrival at home. 262

RETROSPECTIVE GLANCE at the GREAT MISSISSIPPI VALLEY--character, appearance and natural productions--conclusion. 266

MICHIGAN, 285--population, 285--face of the country, 286--Wayne county, 292--Monroe county, 294--Washtenaw county, 295--Macomb county, 297--Oakland county, 299--St. Clair county, 301--St. Joseph county, 302--Cass county, 304--Berrien county, 306--Lapeer and Saginaw counties, 308--Shiawassee county, 309--Calhoun county, 309--Kalamazoo county, 310--Branch and Hillsdale counties, 311--Lenawee county, 312--Barry, Eaton and Ingham counties on grand river, 312.

FIRST CAMPAIGN.

Introductory remarks, 323--causes of the war, 324--parallel case, 326--Col. Austin released and sent to Texas, 329--capture of the armed schooner Correo, 330--first battle on land at Gonzales, 331--capture of Goliad, 333--Col. Milam, 335--army marched towards San Antonio, 339--San Antonio besieged, 340--Commissioners to the United States appointed, 340--San Antonio stormed and taken, 341--the brave Col. Milam killed, and sketch of his life, 342.

Gen. Mexia's expedition, 345--28 men shot at Tampico, 347--volunteers from the United States--Col. Stanley's regiment, 348--General Council convened, and citizens of Goliad make a declaration of independence, 349--state of affairs in Mexico, decree of Santa Anna, 351--embargo laid, 352--Indians called to aid Santa Anna, 353--flag of Texas, 354--post-offices and mail routes, 354--Mexicans preparing for another campaign, 355--situation of Texas, 356.

SECOND CAMPAIGN.

The Mexican army arrive in Texas, commanded by Santa Anna in person, 358--Situation of San Antonio, 359--capture and massacre of Col. Johnson's party, 360--second attack upon the fort, 361--the fort attacked at midnight, taken and the garrison all slain, 362--Gen. Cos, 365--Declaration of Independence, 366--officers of the government, 368--Goliad abandoned, and Col. Fanning party attacked in the prairie, 369--Col. Fanning surrenders, and his party massacred, 370.

Gen. Houston retreats to the Brazos, 371--the inhabitants become alarmed and flee, 371--massacre at Copano, 372--skirmish at sea, 372--Gen. Gaines marches to the frontier of Texas, 372--Indians on the western prairies, 373--CAPTURE OF SANTA ANNA, 375--the Independence of Texas certain, 378--Texian Independence agitated in U.S. Congress, 378--Table of the Chief Towns in Texas and distances from San Felipe, 380.

ADVERTISEMENT.

The public approbation of this work, so fully manifested by a rapid and entire sale of the first edition, has induced the publishers to issue another, much enlarged and improved edition. The broad expanse of country, stretching from the Alleghany mountains to the Pacific ocean, much of which is unsurveyed, unsettled and unexplored, is an interesting portion of the United States. It is believed, there are two hundred million acres of public lands yet unsurveyed in Wisconsin Territory--fifty millions in Michigan--and 800 millions in Missouri, Mississippi, and Arkansas. To all these, are to be added the illimitable tracts, hardly yet trodden by the foot of civilized man, which lie in the unpeopled immensity, on both sides of the rocky mountains. The value of this vast domain, at the minimum government price, defies all calculation. What a source of revenue for the present and the future!

TRIP TO THE WEST AND TEXAS.

In September, 1834, I left Exeter, New-Hampshire, for the purpose of visiting the Western States and Texas. Although public attention had been for some time directed thither, by various published sketches and frequent emigration, yet so little was definitely known, that I was induced to travel through these sections of the country to learn their actual situation and condition. My object was not to visit the settled regions of the country, a full knowledge of which may be obtained from books, but to see some portion of the unknown and unsettled regions of the West and the South. My particular attention was, therefore, directed to Michigan, Illinois, Missouri, Louisiana and Texas.

But so rapidly are some portions of this new country settling; so constantly are new villages springing up in the wilderness; and so continually are improvements making, that history must continue to lag behind the reality. To keep any thing like an even pace with population, and the public constantly informed of the actual condition of the country, would require, like an almanac, an annual revision and publication of its history.

I took passage on board the stage, through Brattleborough and Bennington, to Albany. About twelve years ago, I travelled over this route, and was gratified to find so many improvements in the villages, farms, and especially in the stage road, since I had travelled it before. In passing through Vermont, I found a new road had been made to avoid the high hills over which it formerly passed, so that now, I believe this is the easiest and safest route across the Green Mountains.

The Erie canal terminates in a large basin, immediately on the banks of the Hudson river, so that the freight of the canal boats can be conveniently transferred to the river boats. Western travellers can here take passage on board the canal boat, or go on the railroad to Schenectady and take a boat there. But as the canal is twice the distance of the railroad, travellers generally choose the latter. Travellers from the North, when accompanied by their families and baggage, usually stop at Troy, and take a canal boat there, for the West.

The ancient city of Albany has the appearance of much business and wealth; and some portions of it are pleasant, especially in the region of the State House and other public buildings. From the river, the ground rapidly rises, so that the city stands upon the side of a hill, and makes a fine appearance, when viewed from the opposite shore.

The railroad commences in State street, a short distance below the State House yard; and so steep is the ascent, that the cars are drawn for a mile by horses. Here a steam engine was hitched on, and we started off at a rapid rate. The distance from Albany to Schenectady is sixteen miles, and we travelled it over in less than an hour. Here we were assailed by the agents and captains of the canal boats, and those who could make the most noise and bustle, and obtain the most passengers, were the best fellows.

There are three kinds of boats in general use on the canal. The Packet boats, drawn by three horses, and go at the rate of about five miles an hour. They are fitted up in good style, intended exclusively for passengers and their baggage--having elegant cabins, drawing-rooms, berths, &c. Fare, five cents a mile and found.

The Line boats--designed for freight and passengers also. These are drawn by two horses, and travel at the rate of two and a half or three miles an hour. The fare is one cent a mile for passage only; and one and a half cents addition per mile, for board. Families travelling to the West, generally take the Line boats. They can travel much cheaper than in any other mode. They furnish their own provisions, and have the privilege of cooking on board the boat. Provisions are plenty and cheap, and can be bought at almost every stopping place, along the whole line of the canal.

The Packet boats ply between the large towns on the canal, from Schenectady to Utica; from Utica to Rochester, &c., so that a traveller, in going through the whole route, must shift his baggage and himself from one boat to another, three or four times. But the Line boats run the whole length of the canal, from Albany or Troy to Buffalo.--These boats are furnished with horses by a company, who have them stationed at regular intervals of about twelve miles the whole distance.

All the boats, at night, carry two brilliant lights in the bow, so as to enable the helmsman to steer, and avoid other boats when they meet. I took passage on board one of the Troy and Erie line. I found good accommodations, and good company. In the forward part of the boat, were the gentlemen's and ladies' cabins; in the stern, the dining and cook rooms; and in the centre the place for freight. It was about seventy feet long, and twelve or fourteen feet in width. Three other passengers, besides myself, went the whole route; a lady and her daughter from Pennsylvania, and a Dr. Warren of Rhode Island; and way-passengers were continually coming aboard, and leaving the boat, at our several stopping places. I found travelling on the canal pleasant, and in fine weather, delightful. We were continually passing villages, farms, locks, viaducts, or boats; and these, with the company aboard, afforded an agreeable variety. When I wished for exercise, I would jump ashore, and take a walk along the hard trod tow-path.

I was really surprised to find so many boats on the canal. We met them almost every mile, and sometimes, three or four together. The Line boats are owned by companies; and the captain told me that forty-five boats belonged to his line. When one happens to run aground, which is sometimes the case, when deeply laden and the water low, it is of course, in the centre of the canal; so that boats cannot pass on either side; in such an event, twenty or thirty boats will be congregated in a few hours.

The boats pass each other on the left hand side, and without trouble or delay. The whole process of passing belongs to the outside boat; or the one the farthest from the tow-path. All the inside boat has to do, is to steer near the tow-path, and keep on as usual. The outside boat hauls one way, and their horses the other, and lets the tow-rope slack, so that the inside horses and boat can pass over it, between them. The tow-path sometimes changes from one side to the other of the canal; and the horses are transferred by means of a bridge. They pass underneath the bridge, and turn up on to it the further side; so as to keep the tow-rope clear of it. The riders display their horsemanship by whipping over these bridges at full speed. Accidents, however, sometimes occur. One day, the Packet boat passed us, a short distance from a tow-path bridge; and as the horses were going at full speed across it, the forward one slipped, fell over the railing, and drew the others after him. The rider saved himself by leaping from the horse to the bridge. The two forward horses fell into the water, and came out uninjured; but the rear one fell across the edge of the tow-path and was killed on the spot.

It was indeed a great undertaking. None but a man of a gigantic mind, of steady purpose and firm resolution, could have conceived, planned and executed it. It all along bears the marks of so much labor and expense, that a common mind would have been deterred from making the attempt. The canal passes over an extent of country much more rough, broken and hilly than I had supposed. Long levels of canal are found to be sure; but they are made at great expense, by filling up deep gullies, winding round the side of hills, or deep cuts through them; and by walling up the side of streams, or aqueducts over them.

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