Read Ebook: Toy-Making at Home: How to Make a Hundred Toys from Odds and Ends by Adams Morley

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canisters can be used, or, if something is required giving a more definite impression of solidity, two flat boot-polish tins can be substituted. Another piece of knitting needle passes through the centre of these, and through holes in the sides of the cab, and so acts as axle. This is kept in place by means of dabs of sealing wax.

For the stack you can use a long thin cotton reel, or, better still, you can fix on another small tin by the method shown in Fig. 81.

The turning of the front wheel can be regulated by means of two strings passing from the two right-angle strips through a hole into the cab. If you can fix the strings to a piece of wood as shown in Fig. 82, you will be able to steer properly. A hole in the bottom of the cab, and a piece of wood stretched tightly across the top, should enable you to set up the steering apparatus.

For the hull, a piece of 5/8 in. or 3/4 in. board, about 18 in. long will do. This can be cut to the boat shape by means of a pocket knife or a spokeshave, and finished off with glass-paper. It should be sharp-pointed at the bows, about 3 in. to 4 in. at the centre, tapering down to a width of 2 in. at the stern. In the centre of the hull nail a block of wood, and to it glue two funnels . For these, the odd lengths cut off from bamboo curtain poles will do admirably; or, if these be not obtainable, a couple of incandescent-mantle cases will suffice.

The adjustment of the motive power is the difficult task. First, you will need to purchase a couple of yards of suitable elastic: this is sold at most large toy shops, and costs usually a penny a yard. To fix this into place beneath the hull you will need to construct two metal supports. If you can get an old tin box made from metal sufficiently stout, that will do; if not, then you had better buy a piece of sheet brass, No. 20 gauge: 6 in. by 4 in. will be ample. Draw out these supports as shown in Figs. 84 and 85, and bend them into shape as in Figs. 86 and 87--one for the bow and one for the stern. Screw on the bow one about 1-1/2 in. or 2 in. from the point, and the stern one in the middle of the end.

Now into the bow support fix a loop of stout wire to hold the rubber strands, making it sufficiently large to rest against the sides and so prevent turning. At the stern support adjust the propeller bearings. On the care with which these are adjusted depends largely the success of the model. Take a piece of wire and bend it as in Fig. 88, introducing a hard smooth glass bead. This "bead" runs more freely against the metal, and so facilitates the working. Now stretch the elastic between the two loops, arranging it so that there are six or eight strands. To work the model, turn the propeller round and round till the strands of elastic are very tightly twisted, place on the surface of the water, and then release the propeller. Fig. 83 shows the completed model.

All boys love a toy that "goes"; and so a short account showing how to make

The whole motive power is supplied by one or two candle ends, and a bent piece of strong metal tubing. This last can scarcely be called either "odds" or "ends"; and you will probably have to purchase it at a shop selling model-engine fittings, but a few pence will cover the cost. You must get an eight-inch piece of solid drawn copper or brass tubing, with an inside diameter of 1/8 in.

The next operation is the most difficult: it is bending the tube to the shape shown in Fig. 89. This must be done very gently, otherwise you will crack or dent it. The loop shown should have a diameter of about 5/8 to 3/4 of an inch.

All that you need do now is place the candles under the loop of the tube and heat it. The heat from the candles makes the air in the tube very hot. This hot air is expelled from one arm of the tube; and a current of water rushes up one arm of the tube and down the other with considerable force. It is this current that causes the boat to move.

If you look at Fig. 91 you will get a good idea of the construction of this model, and realise how simple it really is. The boiler is provided by a medium-sized flat oblong tin, with the lid soldered down so that it is steam tight. For the purpose of putting water into the boiler when necessary, a hole is bored in the lid, and a cork fitted tightly.

In one end of the boiler, and towards the top, you must make a pin hole. When the water boils well, the steam is expelled through this tiny hole with considerable force; and to this is due the motion of the craft.

The remainder of the fitting up is soon done. A flat hull similar to that described on page 70 is prepared, and four flat-headed nails driven in, so that the four corners of the boiler can each stand on a nail head. The rudder is cut from an old piece of tin, and pressed into a knife-cut made in the centre of the stern of the hull.

The boiler is placed into position with the steam hole facing the stern, and lighted candle ends are then placed underneath the boiler--as many as possible; for the more the candles the greater the heat, and consequently the greater the force of steam. It will help matters along considerably if the boiler is first of all filled with hot water, instead of cold; but be careful not to scald yourself in doing this.

When steam is up, the boat should travel along at quite a comfortable pace.

Apart from the materials dealt with there are numerous little fragments. A pane of glass is broken, for instance, and in most cases all the pieces are thrown away. Now this is quite unnecessary, for from them can be made some

The slips of glass--they are generally little rectangles, varying from 1 in. to 2 in. in width, and 2 in. to 4 in. in length--are suspended so that when a gentle breeze disturbs them the corners strike gently. To secure a proper suspension, you can either take a board, 6 in. square, and hang the strings from it, or you can make a conical wire frame, about 6 in. across, and hang the pieces of wool from the two rings . The pieces of glass, which can be of any shape and size, should be fixed by means of sealing wax. It is usual to give the glass slips a few dabs of colour, so as to give a brighter effect at night. If you can introduce one or two pieces of coloured glass, the same effect will result.

One such toy, made up of things otherwise quite useless, is

The sound effects are produced by rubbing the ball of the finger gently round the rim of the glass. For this the finger-tip must be absolutely clean, particularly of any grease, and must be thoroughly wet. Probably for the first time or two of rubbing nothing will occur. If that is so, continue wetting the finger, and rub it on an india-rubber sponge or a piece of soft india-rubber. You will know at once when the finger-tip is in the right condition, for it will commence to "drag" on the rim. Eventually a most beautiful pealing note will be emitted, which note will alter slightly in tone if water be poured into the glass.

If in this way you can secure eight glasses tuned exactly to an octave, then you have the wherewithal to produce tunes. When you have obtained the glasses, then it is quite easy to fit them into a box quite close together, leaving just enough room for the fingers to move round. Blocks of wood must be nailed to the bottom of the box, and holes bored in these blocks just exactly large enough to admit the stem .

The sail consists merely of a piece of paper with two holes through which the mast passes. A glance at Fig. 94 will reveal the method of fitting up, and show what a trim little craft can result from such a simple origin.

One other toy which has always been deservedly popular is

You want a good-sized shell, or rather half-shell, some very strong thin twine, and a match. First you must bore two holes in the sides of the shell, not too near the edge, then tie a loop of twine round the holes and the edge . Now if you put a piece of match stick between the strings, and twist the string by turning the match round, you will complete the jumping mechanism . Keep your finger on the match to prevent it flying back, and carefully turn the shell upside down on the table, holding it all the time. Now if you press one finger on the side of the shell so that it slips suddenly from under, then your frog will perform an astounding leap in the air. But, in your eagerness to get a big jump, do not twist the string too tightly, otherwise the holes will break out.

If, as mentioned above, you are skilful enough to cut out the frog, you will need to hollow out the body so that there will be room for the turning of the match.

You can also do very much the same with a fowl's "wishbone" if you tie a loop of string round the two prongs and use the match as shown above.

The shell of an ordinary hen's egg does not seem to give much scope for construction. Yet much can be done with it. One of the best things you can make is

Stop up the holes with sealing wax or plasticene. This complete shell is to form the hull of the yacht; it will be necessary to add a keel, mainmast, bowsprit, &c., to finish the craft.

For the mainmast get a very thin piece of wood--a very thin piece of bamboo or a piece of split cane will do--and pass it carefully through two holes which have previously been bored in the opposite sides of the shell. Let it project an inch or two below . Fix in position by means of sealing wax. In similar fashion arrange a bowsprit.

As the hull is very light, it will be necessary to have a good steadying keel. A piece of sheet lead about 2 in. long and 1 in. wide will do admirably. Secure it to the shell and the projecting piece of mainmast by means of sealing wax .

Now if this floats properly you can proceed with the rigging, which may be as simple or as elaborate as you please. Fasten the spars to the mainmast by means of very thin wire. For the sails use tough tissue paper, gluing the main and top sails in position, and fixing the jib and foresails by means of threads.

The addition of a cardboard rudder--fixed by wax--will complete a trim little craft which will sail in approved regatta fashion, if it has been properly adjusted .

Nor must broken egg shells be despised. These can be decorated with paints, and some very amusing little articles provided. Legs and arms can be added, fixed into place with dabs of sealing wax; clothes can be devised; and grotesque little toys improvised--toys suitable for the decoration of the Christmas tree or sale at bazaars, &c.

Quite a number of amusing little toys can be made from those cylindrical cardboard cases in which incandescent mantles are usually sold. For the most part the only things needed for the construction are a sharp knife , a tube of glue, one or two odd pieces of cardboard, and some paints.

Take off the two end covers, and glue one end of the case to a circle of thick cardboard, about 1/4 in. larger in radius than the case. Now for the other end construct a conical top. To do this, draw out a circle with a radius of about 1-1/4 in. and cut out a sector . The two ends can then be brought together and fixed with a piece of glued tape, and the whole thing can be glued to the other end of the case.

Before this is done, however, the money slot should be cut in the side. Much can be done to make the article attractive by a judicious use of the paints. The money slot, for instance, can be regarded as the mouth, and a grotesque face drawn round it.

If you care to cover the conical top with felt or flannel, you can make the model very funny indeed. In the spring you can damp the felt or flannel, and spread on grass seeds: these will grow and give your grotesque figure a fine crop of bright green hair . Of course, if you are going to damp the upper parts of the model, you must obtain and use some sort of waterproof glue.

For this you require two mantle cases, one just large enough to slide easily into the other. Take the smaller one, and cover one end with tissue paper. This must be done neatly and strongly, otherwise, as the case slides up and down in the outer one, the tissue will tear. You should draw out on the tissue a circle just as large as the end of the case, and then all round, draw and cut little pointed tags to lap over the edges and stick down .

One end of the outer case should be covered with thick brown paper in just the same way, and a tiny pin hole pricked exactly in the centre of the brown-paper end.

Now if a lighted candle be placed near to the pin hole, and if the inner case be moved to and fro till the right spot is found, an exact picture of the candle flame will be seen on the tissue paper.

All that is now required is a coat of paint, and any ornamentation you may care to add.

In conclusion we would point out once more what we stated at the beginning--namely, that the examples given are intended merely to suggest ways and means of making countless other articles.

Printed by The Edinburgh Art Printing Co. Ltd. Edinburgh

Transcriber's note:

The following suspected error was changed in the text: on page 69, changed "somethng" to "something"

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