Read Ebook: Hints on cheese-making for the dairyman the factoryman and the manufacturer by Curtis T D Thomas Day

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"But," says some one, "why tell dishonest men how they can skim and adulterate their milk?" We have not done so. We have told honest men some of the practices of the dishonest, with the view of enabling them to detect the fraud. True, the hydrometer is not an accurate or legal test; but it shows the exact density of the milk tried, and this is a very important point. When you have decided this, by the use of the cream-gauges, you can determine the amount of cream; and if you let the milk stand until it coagulates, and the cheese separates from the whey, you can tell the relative proportion of water and cheese. This may be a somewhat slow and clumsy process, but it is nevertheless decisive, and often repays the trouble. Foreign substances, so far as not held in solution by the water, or not entangled in the cheese or cream, will settle at the bottom of the glasses. Besides, with these evidences to start on, the ways of a suspected person can be watched, and he often be caught in the very act of violating the law, which we quote below:

? 1. Whoever shall knowingly sell, supply, or bring to be manufactured to any cheese manufactory in this State, any milk diluted with water, or in any way adulterated, or milk from which any cream has been taken, or milk commonly known as skimmed milk; or whoever shall keep back any part of the milk known as "strippings;" or whoever shall knowingly bring or supply milk to any cheese manufactory that is tainted or partly sour from want of proper care in keeping pails, strainers, or any vessel in which said milk is kept, clean and sweet, after being notified of such taint or carelessness; or any cheese manufacturer who shall knowingly use, or direct any of his employes to use, for his or their individual benefit, any cream from the milk brought to said cheese manufacturer, without the consent of all the owners thereof, shall, for each and every offense, forfeit and pay a sum not less than twenty-five dollars, nor more than one hundred dollars, with costs of suit, to be sued for in any court of competent jurisdiction, for the benefit of the person or persons, firm or association or corporation, or their assigns, upon whom such fraud be committed.

TAINTS AND ODORS.

Whatever be the grade of cows and the quality of milk, much depends upon its management. A good deal of care and attention are requisite for the attainment of the best possible results with such milk as we may have to work up. But before we come to the process of milking, let us look a moment at the effect of food in regard to taints and the flavor of milk.

It is now universally conceded, that the flavor as well as the quality of the milk depends very materially upon the food of the cow. Coarse swamp-grasses and weeds do not produce as rich or sweet milk as clover, timothy and red-top, grown on dry upland soil; while swamp-water gives a ranker flavor than the sweet spring and brook-water of hilly regions. Leeks are not the only weeds which taint the milk before it is taken from the cow. All rank vegetable growths lend a similar influence to injure flavor. Indeed, that which the cow eats is what she makes the milk of, and if these offensive things are taken into her system, she cannot be expected to turn out milk that will not partake of their qualities, any more than a man can be expected to make sweet cider of sour apples by running them through the mill and press. Even the atmosphere which the cows breathe affects the flavor of the milk. Carrion in the lot where the cows feed has been known to impart its odor to the milk of the dairy. Dirty stables and barnyards, the odor of which is breathed by the cows, makes the milk "taste of the barnyard," as the common expression goes.

It becomes of the greatest importance, therefore, that cows should have clean, sweet pastures to feed in, and clear spring or brook-water to drink; also, that they should have clean, well-ventilated stables to stand in, and be milked in clean yards or stables, as free from all taints and bad odors as possible. The cows should not be heated by hurried driving with a dog, or by a man or boy on horseback, as this fevers the milk, giving it an unwholesome quality, leading to rapid decay as well as producing bad flavor.

And, if quantity as well as quality is to be attained, pastures must contain plenty of feed, so that the cow can soon fill her stomach and then lie down or stand in the shade and ruminate at ease, instead of working constantly from morning to night to gather food enough to satisfy her. She must have water handy, instead of away back in some retired corner of a large pasture, as she naturally wants to drink a few swallows quite often, in warm weather, but will go until she gets excessively dry and feverish before she will travel a long distance to get water. When thus very dry, she drinks an inordinate quantity, which makes her feel heavy and uncomfortable--and whatever annoys a cow lessens the flow and reduces the quality of the milk.

A little reflection must make these things apparent to every reasoning mind. Cows must have plenty of clean, wholesome food and pure water, and must be every way made comfortable and contented, if the largest flow and best quality of milk is expected. The cow is sure to show, not only her own naturally good or bad qualities, but her keep and care, in the milk pail. There is no cheating her. She will make a corresponding discount or dividend on every iota of ill or good treatment she receives. In this, she is an exact accountant, and she will insist upon keeping the account square.

Milk requires not only favorable conditions for its production, as above indicated, but needs great care and cleanliness after it is drawn from the cows. A foul yard or stable will impart its odors to the milk. Uncleanliness in milking not only gets filth into the milk, but taints and injures its flavor. Some, for this reason, recommend washing the cow's bag before milking. But if this washing is done with cold water by the milker, it is quite likely to consume time, cool the bag and cause the cow to hold up a portion of the mess. Experience shows that the quicker the milk can be drawn, after the operation is commenced, the better the yield. If washing is done, it should be with warm or tepid water, and be the work of one person, who should go through the whole dairy in advance of the milkers. But, in our opinion, where the stable or yard is kept clean, a careful brushing of the bag with the hands before beginning, and care in holding the pail a little toward you from under the teats, will obviate all the evils of uncleanliness from milking; and, certain it is, where all the surroundings are dirty, no amount of washing the cow's bag will get rid of the bad effects of the odors arising from the filth. Clean quarters for milking are indispensable to the furnishing of sweet, nice-flavored milk.

Cleanliness in all the pails, cans, strainers, and whatever comes in contact with the milk, is equally necessary. Thorough washing, not omitting the use of soap, scalding and airing, are the only things that will keep them sweet and free from taint. All implements and utensils should be as free from sharp corners as possible, as these are difficult to clean, and taints are apt to be left in them to come in contact with the new milk and infect it, as a small quantity of yeast leavens a batch of bread. The milk will, therefore, soon begin to ferment, producing one of the worst conditions which the cheese-maker has to contend with, and rendering it impossible for him to make firm, clean-flavored cheese of the milk. In no case should wooden vessels be used for milk. The wood will absorb the milk, and no amount of washing and scalding will get it entirely out. What remains will get frowy and impart its infection to the warm milk and cause it to rapidly taint. Tin vessels are the best of anything yet devised, and are recommended universally by the best dairymen and by the American Dairymen's Association. Those with pressed or round bottoms, having no inside angles for ferments to collect in, are preferable. These can be obtained for a trifle if any more money than common tin pails cost, and should receive the preference of dairymen when purchasing.

In short, the greatest care should be taken to have all things strictly clean--not only those that come in contact with the milk, but those surrounding it. The milkers should be as clean, careful and expeditious as possible, avoiding all unnecessary or unusual motions, and everything calculated to alarm or excite the cows. Then, if the cows have had proper food, drink, care and treatment, there is little reason to apprehend anything objectionable in either the quantity or quality of the milk.

COOLING MILK.

The management of milk, when once obtained, is the great practical consideration with the farmer and cheese-maker. But the first handling and care devolve upon the farmer; the cheese-maker's duties begin with the delivery of the milk at the factory. Much, very much, depends upon the treatment of the milk after milking, and the consequent condition in which it is delivered. We will therefore begin at the stable or yard and follow the milk through all its stages, until it is run into the weighing-can.

Previous suggestions as to cleanliness, etc., being adopted, we find the hot milk in the pails ready to be strained into the can standing on the platform or in the wagon. We say "strained," because this is necessary to absolute cleanliness, which affects the flavor, though at some factories the patrons are directed not to strain the milk, for the reason that poor care is so often taken of the strainer, and the keeping of the strainer drawn tight over the top of the can prevents cooling and hastens taint. For this reason, we would recommend the use of strainer-pails, unless the cloth strainer can be stretched above the can so as to allow the heat to escape and the cool air to come in. These precautions should be observed, most certainly, if no means is adopted for cooling the milk before starting for the factory.

The subject of cooling and airing milk has long been earnestly discussed, and the importance of cooling, at least, we believe is universally conceded. But how is this end to be attained, with the thermometer indicating an average temperature of 80?, and perhaps higher? The first and simplest suggestion is to set the can in a tub of cold water--cold spring or well-water, or iced water--and to give the milk frequent agitation with a dipper or other convenient article, care being taken to stir it from the bottom, as the cold milk naturally settles, and of course the hot milk lies on the top. Gentle agitation secures the advantage, also, of preventing the cream from rising. This makes trouble, and consumes a little time, but we believe the result will well repay both.

The milk-can should, by all means, be kept out of the sun's rays, and in a clean airy place. As to the importance of airing milk, there is a difference of opinion. Some assert that the airing is beneficial only so far as it assists in cooling, and that if we can succeed in cooling the milk down to 60?, or thereabouts, immediately after milking, we shall attain all the good results apparent from exposure to the air. All the "animal odors," they say, disappear. Be that as it may, it is scarcely possible to cool milk without more or less exposure to the atmosphere, and we have never heard it claimed that any bad consequences follow this exposure. It is possible, however, that it may more rapidly absorb oxygen, and thus sooner sour. The probability is, that any process which will secure the proper cooling will also afford the necessary exposure for the escape of all animal or other odors likely to pass off in the form of gas. Therefore, practically, it is of very little importance whether we consider the question of airing milk, in any of the stages of its management. So we will first look after the processes which secure known advantages.

Several inventions for the purpose of cooling milk have made their appearance within the past year or two. Some for the use of factories, which seem to work quite satisfactorily, and others for the use of farmers, none of which, we believe, have yet been received with much favor. They are mostly too complicated, if not too expensive, and too difficult to keep clean, to ever become generally adopted. Yet, enough has already been developed to convince us that the desideratum, of a satisfactory apparatus for cooling milk as fast as, or soon after, it is taken from the cow, can be realized. The great trouble is, to make farmers use it faithfully, if at all.

The cooling of milk as fast as milked, or very soon afterward, is the great question now presented to farmers and cheese-makers. It is of quite as much and more consequence, than keeping it cool at the factory--for milk is often so far advanced in decomposition, if not actually sour or tainted, when received, that it is impossible to work it up satisfactorily. Some Yankee must give us a simple and cheap apparatus that will effect the desired result. Such an invention will greatly improve the quality and increase the consumption and price of American cheese. But, in the absence of anything better, the can set in a tub of water and the milk frequently stirred, would be a great improvement on starting for the factory with hot milk. If the water can be made to constantly run into the tub, fresh and cool, as the warm water runs out, so much the better. Another improvement would be some kind of wagon-cover, permitting the air to pass under it, to keep off the sun in clear weather and keep out the rain in wet weather. The hot rays of the sun, pouring on a can of milk for the distance of two or three miles, perhaps--especially if the milk is not cooled before starting--cannot fail to do it serious injury. Milk thus exposed often has a very offensive smell when it reaches the factory-door. This shows that it is already tainted and in a condition to injure the good milk in the vat into which it is run, and cause a porous or "huffy" curd.

The question as to the effect of suddenly cooling milk has been somewhat discussed; also as to how low a temperature is beneficial. Experiments are necessary to definitely and satisfactorily settle these questions. Our impression is that, if ice is not used, there is no danger of cooling milk too suddenly or of getting it too cool. But where ice is used, especially if permitted to come in contact with the milk, or even to be separated from it only by a thickness of tin, there is danger of chilling the particles of milk in immediate contact with the cold surface, and causing them to prematurely decay. This would, of course, injure the keeping qualities of the rest of the batch. So far as the suddenness of the operation is concerned, we doubt if it would have any material effect, one way or the other. But where any portion of the milk is chilled, whether the whole batch of milk be slowly or suddenly reduced in temperature, we should expect it to injure the flavor and keeping qualities of the cheese. Some experiments, like the one made and related by Mr. FARRINGTON, of Canada, at the last Convention of the American Dairymen's Association, would seem to favor the conclusion, that suddenly reducing the milk to a low temperature is unfavorable to the production of the best quality of cheese. More experiments, as we have previously suggested, are necessary to finally settle these questions. But of the importance of cooling milk down to as low a temperature as 60? to 65?, there can be no doubt; and there need be no fear of milk being cooled rapidly enough to injure it where only water is used in the process of cooling.

DELIVERING MILK.

Very little attention is usually paid to carrying milk to the factory. Too many pour the hot milk into a can standing on a wagon or platform, in the broiling sun, put on the cover, which fits almost air-tight, as soon as through, and then haul it in this condition, without any shelter or protection from the sun's rays, to the factory. It is sometimes drawn two or three miles in this way. Or, as is often the case, it is left standing on the platform, covered air-tight, until the milk-wagon comes along. Whether taken on the wagon at the beginning of the route, or left standing on the platform at the last end of the route, it broils in the sun an hour or two, with the animal heat all in it. If drawn a long distance, it is pretty well churned, in addition, and thus a separation of the butter takes place which no ingenuity of the cheese-maker can remedy; but when the result is seen in the cream rising on the whey-vat, anathemas are heaped on his head. Where the milk stands quiet on the platform, the cream rises and forms an air-tight covering over the top of the milk, which soon taints next to the cream. And whether standing still or riding in a tight can, exposed to the sun's rays, without the animal heat having been expelled, it is scarcely possible to avoid taint.

Now, what has the cheese-maker got on his hands, some sweltering morning, during the season when it is "too hot to make butter," and people kindly draw their dairy liquids to the cheese-factory? Why, on rising in the morning and rubbing open his eyes, he breaks the cream on his milk. The under surface has a sickish, sour smell, which tells him very plainly that it cannot be worked up too soon. But what is he to do? The answer is plain enough: Run into this fermenting mass an equal quantity of the same hot stuff which he received the night before! What will be its condition by the time he gets through? No matter! It is his business to make cheese of it. He is employed for that purpose. If the cheese does not prove of the first quality, every patron who furnishes him stinking milk will have strong suspicions that he does not understand his business! And some even insist that the cheese-maker shall pay for all the poor cheese! But any man who is fool enough to make such an agreement, ought to suffer, at least one season. The thought of it, however, is almost "enough to make a minister swear." And, by the way, we have been told of one instance where a minister left the pulpit and took to the cheese-factory--probably for the purpose of practically learning a lesson of patience. He was simple-minded enough to agree to pay for all the poor cheese. He soon found his salary was not equal to such a demand. So he set himself about watching the weighing-can, to keep out the bad milk. This was a Herculean task he had not counted on. We are not informed whether he swore or not; but he actually took his station outside, with a heavy rod of iron, which he was compelled to use, on one or two occasions, to keep the patrons from running rotten milk into the weighing-can! His experience was an instructive one, and ought to be a warning to all ambitious clergymen, as well as to innocent-minded cheese-makers!

We do not mean to say, that the patrons of all factories are as bad as above indicated, nor that they are no better on an average. But we do mean to say, that too many are very careless, and that almost every factory has a few patrons whose milk is apt to be in a bad condition when delivered. Besides, while we hear frequent complaints about bad milk, we never hear of any one's delivering milk in too good a condition. Patrons need have no fears of this, and may take it for granted that they cannot take too much pains with milk, both in point of cleanliness and of keeping it out of the hot sun and expelling the animal heat. We should expect to find, if a careful investigation were made, that the most unsuccessful factories are those where milk is delivered in the worst condition, while the successful ones are those where patrons are more careful and the milk received is generally good. More often depends on the milk than on the cheese-maker. We have heard it remarked, that "almost anybody can make good cheese of perfectly sweet milk;" but it is a smart chap indeed who can make good cheese of poor milk. Every cheese-maker will appreciate our remarks, and we hope they may not be altogether lost on some patrons.

It will not, as a general thing, pay to draw milk over two or two and a half miles, for two reasons: First, it consumes too much valuable time, and next, it churns the milk too much and keeps it too long shut up tight and exposed to the hot atmosphere, if not the sun. If milk, however, were thoroughly cooled as soon as milked, and then carried on easy springs over a smooth road, there is little doubt that it might be drawn four or five miles without much injury, but the expense would be a serious objection to going so long a distance.

Cans that hold over a barrel will be found inconvenient. It is better to use two smaller ones, that can be easily handled, than one very large one. They will cost but little more, and will last considerably longer, as the strain on them will be less. A large can is made of the same material, and is but little if any stronger from additional bracing and staying, and is liable to spring aleak.

As to the use of faucets, it is generally objected to by cheese-makers, as too little pains is taken by many to keep them clean. Their use is, therefore, discarded as far as possible, and we believe cans are generally made without them. Yet, some factories still continue receiving milk through conductors, where, of course, faucets are necessary. They are also a convenience to the patron, in many instances, where the can may be used for other purposes than holding milk. It is, therefore, not likely that their use will ever be entirely done away with. But, if neatly and smoothly put in, and care is observed in cleaning them, there can be no serious objection to them. Small faucets, however, should never be tolerated. Nothing smaller than inch-and-a-half or two-inch faucets should be put in. These are easy to clean, and greatly facilitate emptying. A small spiteful stream is a nuisance, and causes a waste of time at the factory door where expedition is what everybody wants, and is what is needed. If you use a faucet, use a large one, and keep it scrupulously clean.

RECEIVING MILK.

Most factories now unload milk by the use of cranes or some other kind of tipping apparatus. Some of the older factories--there are no very old ones--continue the use of conductors for transferring the milk to the weighing-can. This is the easier but the slower way, and necessitates the use of at least double the number of weighing-cans that are required by the crane. Besides, in the use of conductors, there is the constant inconvenience of standing out in the rain, in wet weather, to hold the conductor, while there is more or less liability to accident from the backing up or starting of the team. Conductors are mean, even impossible, things to clean; and their use, when there is a rush of teams, requires a second man or boy to hold them, while the first does the weighing and makes the necessary entries on the milk-book. If sixty to eighty messes are to be received, at least two weighing cans will be necessary. But by the use of a crane, one weighing-can will do the same work--always provided it has a faucet of not less than three inches in diameter, so that the can may be emptied while a team is driving up and the patron's can is being grappled and elevated ready for tipping. A large faucet is of equal advantage when conductors are used, and, in that case, every patron's can should be furnished with at least a two-inch faucet, to facilitate the transfer of milk to the weighing-can.

The use of the crane is, of course, not entirely free from accident. The strain on the can, when full, is very great, and it is liable to spring aleak, unless well made. But cans made with reference to this use are now furnished with crowning or with patent bottoms, and are so well hooped and braced that no serious accidents of this kind are likely to occur. A can-ear, or a rope long in use, may break. There may be carelessness in hooking on to the can, and the milk may be slopped or spilled by letting a full can turn over too soon, or by too suddenly letting the milk dash into the weighing-can. All these operations require care and experience; but, with proper management, the loss from accident, during a season, will be very slight--perhaps nothing at all.

Great care should be taken in weighing milk, to not only weigh it right, but to make the patron feel that his milk is honestly weighed, and that he is likewise honestly credited on the milk-book. Much suspicion and hard feeling are liable to spring up, if the man who weighs the milk has the appearance of being hasty and careless--especially if he should be ill-natured and disagreeable in his manners. And it may not be out of place here to remark, that good manners and a spirit of accommodation are no more out of place in a cheese-factory than anywhere else. Among a large number of patrons, it would be strange if there were not disagreeable, ill-mannerly men; but a man who retains his self-possession and always acts fairly and talks reasonably, will seldom fail to get along tolerably well and retain the good will of all. It is the right of the patron to know that his milk is correctly weighed and credited, and every reasonable facility should be afforded him to satisfy himself that he is fairly dealt with.

It becomes the duty of one receiving milk to see that it is delivered in proper condition. Experience, a good eye and a good nose, are all useful assistants. Even with the use of all these, messes will sometimes get into the vat that never ought to be there. But when a patron's milk is found not to be right, it is not necessary to insult or abuse him, nor to make a general exposure of him. Neither law nor duty requires this. He should be kindly informed of the fact, told what the matter is with his milk and what he had better do to remove the evil. If you do not wish to take the mess, you can express your regrets at his misfortune, and show him that it would cause great damage, some of which must necessarily fall on himself. If the mess is objectionable, but will pass, give him notice that you will be obliged to refuse it in future, if not in a better condition. When you have done this, more words with him are unnecessary, and you have all the advantage, for the law and the community are on your side. But, with a reasonable man, it will not be necessary to more than call his attention to the fact that his milk is bad. The cause may be the result of accident or oversight on the part of his help, and he will at once set himself to work to apply the remedy. The importance of delivering milk in good condition is more and more acknowledged every year, and not a few patrons pride themselves on delivering as good milk as any of their neighbors. It is well to encourage this feeling by giving every man credit who takes pains with his milk. Nothing is worse than wholesale denunciation and fault finding. It only discourages many, creates bad feeling, and makes an up-hill road a rough one as well. A cheese-maker needs friends, if anybody does; and if he does not get them among his patrons, he is not likely to get them at all. In that case, his seven days a week of hard, thankless toil and care are likely to weigh heavily on body and mind.

The greatest difficulty is usually experienced in old factories, where the conveniences are not generally up to the more modern mark, and patrons fell into bad habits before experience had developed a better knowledge of the requirements of cheese-making. New patrons will submit to be trained, and a sensible cheese-maker, who knows what he wants, can generally get them to do almost anything at the opening of a new factory. In this way, he can discipline them and get them in the habit of taking good care of their milk. But, in an old factory, where everything started off badly, the old adage, that "it is hard to learn old dogs new tricks," is apt to be exemplified. They dislike innovations, think a new man, who wants to be particular, wishes to put them to useless trouble, and they are not disposed to gratify him, but rather to growl at him, and feel that what was good enough for others is good enough for him. Such conduct is all wrong, and those who are guilty of it stand in their own light.

BIG AVERAGES.

It is the custom in many factories to balance the scales so that a pound or so is taken out of each mess, in order to help make "a big average" for the season. That is, every mess is made to weigh a pound or so less than its actual weight, and is so entered on the book. In this way, if sixty or seventy messes are received, the cheese-maker has that number of pounds of milk more to make up than is charged against him. This amount twice a day would enable him to turn out some twelve or fourteen pounds of cheese more than he ought to if he received no more pounds of milk than he gives credit for on the milk-book. Thus he makes it appear to the patrons, and publishes it ultimately to the world, that he uses less pounds of milk in making a pound of cheese than is the actual fact. In common phrase, he "makes a big average."

Let us illustrate a little. Suppose ten hundred and ten pounds of milk are delivered in ten messes. The entry on the book is one thousand pounds. Out of this he makes one hundred and one pounds of cured cheese. If the milk had been correctly weighed, the fact would appear that he made one pound of marketable cheese for every ten pounds of milk. But it really appears that it took a fraction less than ten pounds of milk, or 9.9 pounds, for a pound of cheese. This is the advantage which he has, in the eyes of the community, over the maker who gives honest weight. This is the reward of his petty dishonesty.

In justification of this, it is argued that it keeps up not only the reputation of the maker but the reputation of the factory, while it wrongs no one, since the patrons get all the cheese, or its equivalent in money, and all are served alike. We admit that the patrons get all the products of the milk, but let us see for a moment whether all are treated fairly. Every patron has a pound of milk deducted from each mess. SMITH brings a hundred pound mess, and is therefore docked one hundredth part of it. JONES, with only one cow, delivers a ten pound mess, and is docked one-tenth of it. Thus, at the end of thirty days, each has delivered sixty messes. SMITH has delivered 6,000 pounds and been credited for 5,940. JONES has delivered 600 pounds, and got credit for 540. If ten pounds of milk make one pound of cheese, the account ought to stand thus:

But, under the system of deducting a pound from each mess, in order to show a "big average," the account really stands thus:

At twenty cents a pound for cheese, JONES, because he is poor and delivers a small mess, loses just one dollar on his month's milk, and SMITH, because he is better off and has a bigger mess, gets the dollar added to his profits. This, in plain figures, is the result of deducting weight in order to show a "big average." Let no one who reads this do it again. He can no longer plead ignorance, and continue to rob PETER for the benefit of PAUL, under the supposition that he is treating all alike and fairly.

Unquestionably, something should be allowed for the difference between a dry and a wet can. The amount is trifling, and can be got at by balancing the scales immediately after running out a can of milk. But, when the scales are balanced with a wet can, they will not balance exactly when the can is dry; and whoever delivers the first mess and wets the can will suffer a slight loss, unless care is taken to give good weight. The variation will generally not be more than a quarter of a pound or so, and can be nearly enough approximated by attention to the fractions of a pound denoted by the scales.

Of course, in weighing milk, only the full pounds can be counted and credited, the fractions going to make up full weight. As quick weight is demanded in selling cheese, milk when received should be weighed in the same way. This is fair, and ought to be satisfactory to all. But whether quick or slow weight is given, let it be honest. In the long run, "honesty is the best policy" in weighing milk as well as in other transactions; and, in this case, it is absolutely essential to justice. A little deduction or variation on a single mess, is of small consequence; but "many mickles make a muckle," and when the variation from a correct standard is constantly in one direction, after a while it amounts to a noticeable quantity.

Occasionally a mess of milk will get run into the vat without weighing, by the weigher forgetting to close the gate or faucet. When an accident of this kind happens, there is no fairer way than to give credit for an average mess as compared with the messes at the same time of day previously. If the patron is a fair man, there will be little trouble in hitting upon a satisfactory figure. If disposed to make the most of a mistake, he will be likely to tell you that he thought he had a larger mess than usual, and crowd you up to as high a figure as possible. But one has to exercise his best judgment, and give such credit as he thinks will wrong no one. Such mistakes, though almost unavoidable, are unpleasant to one who is sensitive and wishes to keep the good side of all; and not only care should be taken, but every precaution should be used, to prevent them. The handle or lever for closing the gate should be in full sight, and one should acquire the habit of working systematically, so that he may instinctively do what is necessary, even though his attention be for the moment diverted from his business.

Great care is required, too, in making the entries in the milk book. A mess, by carelessness, may be credited to the wrong man; but when the man to whom the credit is wrongfully given presents himself, the mistake is likely to be discovered, though you may not be able to determine at once to whom the credit belongs. In such case, preserve the figures, and when your messes are all in, turn over the leaves of the book and see who is without credit. The size of the mess is generally some indication. One is liable, too, to make a mistake of fifty or a hundred pounds in looking at the scales. But the habit of comparing every entry with the previous ones as you make it, will show the discrepancy. Where such variation is noticed, of course another glance at the weight will determine whether it is a mistake or not. It is a very good practice to call out the weight of each mess. This affords satisfaction to the patron as well as guards against allowing errors to pass. But, under all circumstances, too much attention cannot be paid to keeping the milk-book correctly. It is the only guide to the distribution of the proceeds of the factory, and the thought of even a possible mistake ought to give an honest man a strong sense of responsibility. No bank book is of more importance.

CONDUCTORS, STRAINERS, ETC.

When treating of receiving milk, we spake of conductors as difficult to clean. We consider them an abomination in a cheese factory; yet almost every factory uses them. We believe there are some, however, arranged for delivering and receiving milk by driving through one end of the factory. The milk is brought in small cans, out of which it is poured into the weighing-can by hand. The weighing-can is on a truck running on a railway along the sides or ends of the vats, into which the milk is readily emptied by tipping. This does away with both faucets and conductors, and the idea is worthy the attention of all factorymen.

When cranes are used in receiving milk, the outside conductors are not needed, but there are two or three long conductors, inside the factory, used for running the milk from the weighing-can into the vats. Sometimes we see one of these tin tubes ten or fifteen feet long. It is impossible to keep such a thing clean. A peep into this, or shorter ones, will show that they are not kept clean. Take as much pains as the hands may to clean them with a swab on a long stick, they will soon get coated over inside by the milk drying on; and, unless extra pains is taken, they will be lined with a beautiful coating of green and gold! They are used at night, and, unless the weather is very bad--and many pay no attention to the weather--they are allowed to stand over night where used, ready for the next morning. The milk and cream get dried on the inside surface, and nobody has the time, if the disposition, to soak it off. Further, tin conductors will get dents in them. The milk will collect and dry in the angles made by these dents. How, in the name of common sense, can any one get at them to clean them, in a tube ten or even four feet long? It is an impossibility. The milk collects, from day to day, until the conductor is full of foul ferments, through which all the milk of the factory is run and tainted. It is no fault of the cheese-maker, because he can't help it, if he employs a hand constantly on these abominable tubes. He may use a swab with strong ley, or salt and water, or both, and run hot water through the tubes till the patrons begin to come with their milk, but the "damned spots" will not "out." Of course, he will somewhat neutralize their active properties as ferments, but he does not altogether get rid of them. The only way in which he can do it, is to pitch the nasty things out of the window.

If conductors must be used--and their use seems to be a foregone conclusion--let them be made in the form of open spouts. A foot or so next to the head, is all the tube that is needed--and this should be large enough to readily admit the hand for the purpose of washing. The rest should be an open spout, which can be easily and speedily cleaned and scalded. Many owners of factories, however, are too penurious to spend a few dollars in order to get rid of this nuisance of long tin conductors. They would rather lose--or, at least, run the risk of losing--five hundred dollars on the sale of their cheese, than spend five dollars for the purpose of avoiding this fruitful source of taint. If the cheese is poor, the blame can be laid on the cheese-maker; or, if the taint is too manifest in the vat of milk or curd, it can be charged upon the carelessness of the patrons.

There is another source of trouble, which lies entirely with the cheese-maker, or with the hands under him whom he trusts. This is the strainer. In cool weather, perhaps there will be no difficulty, if the strainer is properly washed, scalded and dried each morning after the milk is all in. But in hot weather, especially if the atmosphere is damp and steamy, if a strainer is left over night without rinsing, it is sure to sour. Yet, the strainer, like the conductor, is often left at night just as used, ready for the reception of the next morning's milk. Both are likely to be sour. The milk in the vat is "old," especially next the cream, which acts as an air-tight covering. Now, run hot milk through the sour can, conductor and strainer, into this mess of changed milk, and any one, with even but a modicum of brains, can see what is likely to be the consequence. It will be a batch of sour, leaky cheese.

Where an agitator is used, the trouble of milk souring or tainting beneath an air-tight covering of cream, is obviated. Washing cans, conductors and strainers at night, gets rid of the difficulty from these sources--that is, as far as the can and strainer are concerned, and partially as regards the conductor. A thorough rinsing in cold water, immediately after the last mess is run in, will be found to answer the purpose. It is usually late, and there is no hot water for regular washing and scalding. But a few moments' work will complete the rinsing in cold water, and this will not be found a very hard task for even the jaded hands of a cheese-factory. During all the hot weather, this should be strictly attended to. It will pay in a double sense--it will prevent sourness, and make the can, conductor and strainer easier to wash the next day.

The old-fashioned thermometer is also a source of annoyance, if care is not taken in cleaning it. It will fill up with ferments between the face and back, in an astonishingly short space of time, during hot weather. In short, there is no way of keeping it perfectly clean, except by slipping the thermometer out of the back or case, and carefully washing and scalding it--and in doing this, it is exceedingly liable to get broken. We are therefore glad to notice the introduction of a new thermometer for dairy purposes. It is simply constructed, plain, easy to clean, and no more expensive than the common kind now in use. Those in need of thermometers will find this style much better adapted to their uses. The glass is fastened to a plain plate of metal, the two edges of which are bent forward to give it the requisite stiffness.

Of course, agitators, dippers, rakes, &c., need to be carefully cleaned. But we have before spoken of the importance of the most scrupulous attention to cleanliness throughout, on the part of the cheese-maker as well as of the patron. Cleanliness is an indispensable virtue in all departments of dairying.

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