Read Ebook: Practical forging and art smithing by Googerty Thomas F Thomas Francis Lake Edward J Author Of Introduction Etc

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At Figure 46 is shown a door knocker hinged at the top. The plate is one piece. At Figure 47 are shown the dimensions of the plate. After the shape of the plate is sketched on the metal, the lines are traced with a chisel. The open work is then cut out, and the outside of the plate is cut and filed. The center leaf at the top of the plate is indicated by forcing the metal down along the top edge of the leaf with a punch, also at the bottom to form the interlace. The plate should be hot when this is done. The hammer shown in Figure 48 should be forged from 3/4 -in. square, soft steel. The lug shown on the drawing is to be made and riveted into the top of the plate. The hammer is then placed over the lug, and the lug is drilled to conform to the drilled holes in the hammer.

The chasing on the plate and hammer is done with a chisel as previously explained. A gauge should be made from a piece of steel to scratch the guide lines on the plate for the chasing as shown in Figure 48. These lines are then cut with the chisel.

Making a Hat and Coat Hook--A Fuller--Jump Welding--Making a Wall Hook.

Figure 49 represents a hat-and-coat hook. In the making of this piece, the plate should be made from No. 14 soft steel. The dimensions are shown in Figure 50. The shape of the plate can be drawn on heavy paper, which is afterward cut out and used as a pattern when making the plate from metal. After the plate is cut out with a cold chisel, it is ground or filed on the edges. The holes are next drilled, and the lines are cut on the surface as shown in the drawing. In cutting the lines, a short, narrow cold chisel is used for chasing in the same manner as previously described. The lines on the leaf should be made quite deep. A fuller is shown in Figure 50, which is used to make the lines still deeper. The fuller should have the edge smooth, and without sharp corners. The plate should be clamped on to a surface plate while making the lines. The fuller is then set on the cut lines and struck with the hand hammer, chasing the tool to the ends of the lines. This work can, also, be done to advantage by heating the plate and having a helper hold it on the anvil while fullering the lines. When all the lines are made, the leaf is heated, set on the elm block and hammered on the back to raise the end of the lobes as shown in the illustration.

The hook is made from iron. Figure 51 represents the dimensions of stock for the hook. The lug is welded on, and the ends of the bar are rounded ready to be formed. After the stock is cut, it is upset six inches from one end to enlarge it so that the lug can be welded on. The stock from which the lug is made is cut 3 1/2 inches long, upset on end, and split in the vise 1/2 inch deep as shown at Figure 52. The split end should be formed as shown. In welding, separate heats are taken, and the lug is jumped onto the bar as shown in Figure 53. The first blows are struck directly on the end of the lug, then the lips are welded. Figure 51 shows the length of the piece before the knobs are formed. In making the knobs at the end, they should be upset as shown in Figure 54. They are then hammered as shown, and finally rounded. The lug is next cut the proper length, and a shoulder is filed at the end. The chased lines are now cut on the front side. In forming the piece, it is heated and hammered over the horn of the anvil, starting to bend at the end first, and working toward the center. In bending anything of this kind, always start at one end, and finish as you work toward the other end. See the drawing of the bent hook at Figure 55. The end of the lug is next heated and caught in a vise, the plate is set on and riveted tightly. The work is smoothed with a file, heated to darken it, and oiled.

A wall hook, suitable to hang a bird cage or fern dish, is shown in Figure 56. In Figure 57 are shown the length and size of stock, and the piece ready to form. In making the ball, the piece is shouldered at one end by hammering it on the outer edge of the anvil as shown in Figure 58. It is then hammered on the corner, to make it round. The other end is drawn to a square point, and is then flattened as shown in Figure 59, letting it become as wide as it will. This flat end is then veined suggesting a leaf form. In doing this, a long chisel, made round somewhat like a fuller, is used. The piece is heated, and a sunken line is made with the chisel, as shown by the drawing of the leaf end. The piece is then heated, and the leaf end is formed. The holes should now be drilled. The balance of the hook is heated and formed by hammering it over the horn of the anvil.

Making a Toasting-fork--Inlaying.

A very interesting and useful article to make is a toasting fork. The stock used can be spring steel. A disadvantage in using this steel is that it is too hard to work out a design on the handle. If one can weld quite well, the fork should have the handle made of soft steel and the balance of carbon steel. In doing this, the weld is the first thing to do while the stock is straight and full size. If one without much welding experience is to make the fork, it should be made of soft steel, and when finished the prongs should be case hardened. In making a fork of this kind, a piece of soft steel as shown in the drawing in Figure 60 is used. On one end, the stock is enlarged a little, by upsetting for a distance of five or six inches. This end is to be used for the handle. The other end of the bar is then heated, and a hole is punched 1 3/4 -in. from the end. The piece should then look somewhat like the drawing at A, Figure 61. In drawing out, the shoulder is hammered as shown at B, Figure 61. The shank is next drawn out. It should be a scant 1/4 -in. thick so as to finish to the dimensions given in Figure 60. Care must be taken to avoid getting too much stock in the shank. It is a very easy matter to get too much stock between the handle and the shoulder which, when drawn out, is too long. The prongs are roughly made by cutting the stock out as shown by the dotted lines in Figure 61. When this is done the prongs are hammered out to the correct size, allowing for finishing.

In Figure 62 are shown reproductions of similar forks. The line shown running around the rectangular open parts is inlaid copper. A channel is sunken and the copper driven into it. In making the handle, the three oblong holes are punched while hot with a punch about ?/?? in. by 5/8 in. at the end, making a series of punchings to cut out the holes. The holes should be small enough so that they may be finished to size with a file. Notice that the openings are not of the same size; but two short ones, with a longer one in the center, give variety. Notice, also, that the shape of the handle is in keeping with the long, slim shank and the slender, two-tine fork at the end.

After the handle is shaped, and the holes are punched, including the one at the top to hang the fork by, the line to receive the copper is marked. The marking should be done with a scratch awl. The line is then cut with a small chisel. This cutting should be quite deep and exact. This is important if the work is to be true and straight. All of the marking should be done while the handle is cold. It is now heated and taken to the anvil. A small punch, as represented in Figure 63, is then set onto the cut line and given a blow with the hammer, sinking the punch about ?/?? of an inch. One-half of the punch is now raised up and out of the channel. While it is directly on the chased line, it is given another blow with the hammer and so on until the end is reached. The particular thing to watch is to have the lead corner of punch directly on the chased guide line, while the other edge of the punch is in the channel in order to keep the finished line straight. Keep the punch in good order, straight and square at the end. The punch should not have much taper and should not be used after the red heat leaves the metal. After the entire line has been sunken ?/?? in. deep, the handle is reheated and the line is sunken perhaps 1/8 in. deep.

A wider punch is now used in the long channel to straighten it and make it deeper. The wide punch should have no taper and should be a scant ?/?? in. thick so that the line will be about ?/?? in. wide. If any part of the channel should be too wide, the handle should be hammered on the edge with a light hammer to close the channel a little. When the channel is finished, the handle should be filed flat on the channel side. This will give one a better view of the straightness of the channel.

In case the channel is not as straight as it should be, a small flat file is heated and bent at the end and rehardened. This file is used to straighten up the edges of the channel. A small cold chisel can also be used for this purpose. The channel must be straight along the top edge. When the channel is well straightened, strips of copper are filed to fit the channel, letting them project above the channel about ?/?? of an inch and also having each piece a little short in length. When the pieces are all in place, the handle is set on the anvil and with a heavy hammer they are driven down forcing the copper to fill the whole of the channel. The entire handle is filed to the dimensions given in Figure 63.

Notice Figure 65 which shows a sectional drawing of the handle, with the copper in place and a chased line running along between copper and steel. A channel without copper is shown at the right of the illustration.

Making a Lantern--Making a Wall-lamp.

The lantern shown in Figure 66 consists of four sides which are fastened together with angles and rivets. The top is made from four pieces, with angles also riveted to them. The stock is cut with a pair of snip shears, No. 06 1/2 . The sides must be cut to the same size or there will be trouble in putting them together. After they are cut, the open work is marked with a slate pencil. Holes are drilled in the corners of each opening, and they are cut out with a sharp chisel. The edges are filed and all holes are drilled for No. 12 rivets. At Figure 68 is a drawing, with dimensions of one of the sides as it should be in the flat. Notice the section of the sheet bent at the top for the roof and at the bottom to hold the glass. The glass is held in position at the top with a little strip of copper, with a rivet to hold it. The glass is set into the groove at the bottom, and the copper cleat is bent over the top of the glass. The copper cleat should be 7/8 by 3/8 in., made from No. 26 soft copper. The bottom of the sheet is first bent at right angles, then a flat piece ?/?? in. thick is laid on the inside of the sheet, and the whole is placed on the anvil. The end of the sheet is now hammered over the ?/??-in. piece with a mallet to make the pocket to hold the glass. All of the holes for rivets to fasten the angles should be countersunk a little on the inside. The angles are made from one inch wide No. 20 hoop iron. They are formed by placing them between two pieces of flat iron as shown in Figure 69, and holding the whole in a vise while hammering with a wood mallet.

In fastening the angles to the sides, the heads of the rivets are on the outside, and the inside is smooth. In doing this, the heads of the rivets are held in a rivet set while hammering on the inside.

The rivet set is caught in a vise as shown in Figure 70. A rivet set is a piece of steel with the shape of a rivet head sunken into one end. In making this, a punch is filed the shape of a rivet head and is then driven into the end of a hot piece of steel. In Figure 71 is shown a simple method of developing a pattern of one section for the top of a lantern. A-B of the pattern is first drawn. The length of X-B of the elevation is the length of C-D of the pattern. Lines are then drawn from C to A and B. The point of each section at the top is cut off so that when the four pieces are riveted to the angles there will be a ?/??-in. hole thru the top. In this hole is put a piece of 1/8 -in. steam pipe with a lock nut on the top and another on the bottom to hold it in place. The pipe is for the socket to screw onto under the top, and also for the wire to come thru. The loop at the top is to suspend the lantern by. It is made of 3/8 by 1/8 -in. stock, 6 inches long. Two No. 10 rivets are put in each end to fasten it to the roof. The lamp is to hang by a chain suspended from the ceiling. In doing this a ceiling cap is necessary. This may be a piece of 1/2 -in. steam pipe threaded on one end and a hook made on the other. A cast iron piece is screwed on the end of the pipe and is then fastened to the ceiling by three screws, which supports the chain and lamp. The wires go thru the pipe and connect with other wires in the ceiling. When the lamp is wired and the casting is fastened to the ceiling, it must be covered with something to hide the wires and its rough appearance. In Figure 76 is shown a drawing for a cap to cover the casting and wiring. The cap has a hole in the center for the pipe to pass thru, leaving it movable on the pipe. A collar of cast iron, with a set screw in the side, is to go under the cap and the screw tightened when the cap is against the ceiling. In making the cap, it is heated and hammered over a hole in the swage block. A hammer with a large-sized, rounded face is used. The disk is driven into the hole until it becomes bowl-shaped and the right height.

At Figure 78 is represented a lamp that is to be fastened to the side of the wall, instead of hanging from the ceiling with a chain. The light is inverted, the lamp being open at the top and closed at the bottom.

The stock used in the construction of the lamp is very heavy, No. 14 soft steel being used. The angle plates on the corners are made from No. 20 soft steel. The plate that is on the back of the lamp has a cup-shaped pocket hammered into it to cover the wiring when the lamp is in place, and on which the light socket is fastened.

In Figure 79 is shown a cross-section of the back plate, with the depression and socket in place.

This kind of lamp is very simple to make and can be made in various shapes and sizes. The back of the lamp can be made of wood instead of metal, if desired.

Making a Portable Lamp.

In Figure 80 is represented a portable lamp. This kind of lamp can be made in various sizes with one light. The lamp shown in the illustration, consists of two parts; the standard, and the shade, which can be removed. The standard consists of a box-shaped bottom, with a pipe screwed into it for the upright piece. The arms that the shade rests on, are separate and are held in position by the lamp socket, which is screwed down on them. The strips running over the bottom of the base and up the pipe are riveted in place to support the pipe. This gives the whole standard a more substantial appearance, and relieves the plain round pipe.

In making a very simple lamp of this character, we may eliminate the strips running up the pipe, and make the bottom with a round pipe screwed into it. Of course a square standard would be more in keeping with the square base and shade. In making the box-shaped base, soft steel should be used. Figure 81 shows the dimensions of the flat stock. The plate is heated and an inch of the edge is bent over the outer edge of the anvil, as shown in Figure 82. The outer edges of the plate can be bent over the end of the anvil as shown in Figure 83. When all the edges are bent the piece will look somewhat as in Figure 84. The corners are now ground off, and the bottom is made level. A hole is drilled in the center and threaded for a 3/4 -in. steam pipe. Two inches from the center hole, another hole is drilled and tapped for a 1/4 -in. or 3/8 -in. rubber bushing. In wiring the lamp, the cord should enter thru the bushing from the outside, and under and up thru the pipe to the socket. The drawing for the pipe is shown at Figure 85, also a bushing which is brazed into the top of the pipe and threaded for a 1/8 -in. pipe. The 1/8 -in. steam pipe and bushing are shown in position in the illustration at one end of the pipe. This small pipe is for the lamp socket to be screwed onto. The other end of the large pipe is to be threaded and screwed into the base. The pipe should be screwed into the base far enough, so that the threads will not be exposed to the outside and the surplus cut off. The pipe when screwed tight should be brazed to the base. In doing this, the borax and spelter should be applied to the under side, after the base is well heated, as the brass will discolor the iron on the top side. When the pipe is brazed it should be made to stand vertical.

In Figure 86 is shown the lamp standard with the shade support in position. The support has a hole in the center to fit the 1/8 -in. steam pipe at the top of the standard. When the support is in place another 1/8 -in. hole is drilled thru it into the pipe. A pin is driven into the hole so that the support cannot be moved around. The lamp socket when screwed down makes the support tight. In making the support the center part is cut from a plate ?/?? in. by 4 by 4 in. and ?/?? in. round soft steel bars are welded on for the arms. In Figure 87 is shown the drawing which does not need explanation. The drawing for the pattern is shown at Figure 88 and the pattern for one section at Figure 89. In developing the pattern which is very simple the top drawing, Figure 88, represents the shade which should be drawn full size. The length from A to B is then laid off on the center line of the pattern, which in this case measures 7 1/2 in. The top and bottom of shade shows a return of 3/8 in. which should be added to the length of the pattern. The width of the top and bottom of the shade is then drawn, also diagonal lines which will complete the pattern. The edge view of the pattern is shown at C. The 3/8 -in. bend at the top is made so that the cap can be riveted on. The one at the bottom is to receive the glass. This was explained on a previous page in describing the making of a hall lantern. In assembling the shade, corner angles are used to fasten the sections together, which was also explained for the hall lantern. The top cap is put on last and fastened with rivets.

INDEX

Annealing, 77

Annealing high speed steel, 81

Anvil, construction of, 10 how to fasten, 11 tools, 13

Awl, scratch, 78

Ball hammer, 13

Bessemer process, 65

Blast, control of, 27

Bolts, heading, 55 making of, 54

Bottom fuller, 17

Bottom swage, 16

Braiding, 96

Brazing, 36

Butt welding, 31

Candle-stick, making of, 104

Case hardening, 76

Cementation process, 66

Center punch, use of, 13

Chain links, welding of, 48

Chasing, 109

Chisels, hot and cold, 15 making of cold, 70

Coal, method of handling, 19

Cold Chisel, use of, 15

Coloring steel, 77

Crucible steel, making of, 66

Cupping tool, 55

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