Read Ebook: Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo and across the Great Desert to Morocco performed in the year 1824-1828 in Two Volumes Vol. I by Cailli Ren

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as. On leaving them we found ourselves in a valley formed of two hills of granite. The soil, which consists of grey sand, is fertile and covered with good pasturage.

We were obliged once more to cross the Doulinca, and, about one in the afternoon, we halted among some Foulah herdsmen. Their huts were built beneath the shade of large trees, a most enviable situation in this part of the world. Since my departure from Kakondy, I had not seen so beautiful and fertile a tract of country. Instead of rocks, I now beheld on every side delightful plains, which required only the labour of the husbandman to produce every thing necessary for human life. The day had been excessively hot, and about two in the afternoon we heard thunder in the direction of N. E. The sky was overcast with black clouds, and the rain fell abundantly. We repaired for shelter to the huts of the herdsmen, who at first scrupled to admit us. The thunder rolled in terrific peals; and I expected every moment that we should be struck by the lightning. The flashes rapidly succeeded each other, and the sky appeared to be one sheet of flame. We lay down on the herdsmen's beds, consisting of round pieces of wood placed upon posts which raised them a little from the ground, and we patiently awaited the termination of the storm. When the rain ceased, we left the huts, and the freshness which now pervaded the atmosphere added new charms to the surrounding scene. We ate a little rice, and then proceeded eastward. We crossed a little rivulet which flowed over a bed of granite. The road was wet and muddy, which rendered our journey fatiguing. After travelling half a mile to N. E. and another half mile to the east, we arrived at night-fall at an ourond?, or slave village, called Lant?gu?. We were again overtaken by rain on the road, and I had recourse to my umbrella which, however, did not entirely protect me. The chief of Lant?gu? gave us a hut. Before it there was a beautiful orange-tree, beneath which I sat down on a sheep-skin. Thunder was again heard. The sky was covered with clouds, the atmosphere warm and damp, and it continued raining the whole of the night. The incessant flashes of lightning continually illuminated our hut, the door of which would not more than half shut.

We stopped at Lant?gu? the whole of the 26th, for one of the slaves of our caravan, who was heavily laden, had bad feet. I spent a part of the day in visiting the village and its inhabitants, who were about one hundred and fifty in number. Many of them thought me too white for a Moor.

I observed round the huts some fine bananas, pineapples, cassavas, yams, and various other useful plants. They were well cultivated. It is the women's business to attend to them. The men labour in the rice fields, &c. The heat was very great during the day, which denoted a storm in the evening. We were now approaching the rainy season which in these mountainous districts commences in April, and continues six consecutive months. In the course of the day a little dispute arose between my guide Ibrahim and two Mandingoes of his village, who insisted on having their share of the value of a bullock, which had been given to them by M. Castagnet, at Kakondy. The two Mandingoes came to me, and wished me to decide their difference. However, my decision only made the matter worse, and so irritated my guide, that he threatened to leave me, which would, of course, have thrown me into no little embarrassment. At length, a young negro, who had been to Sierra-Leone and spoke a little English, came to my aid. He helped to interpret what I said, and thus peace was restored among us.

The merchants spent the remainder of the day in examining their goods and I amused myself in looking about the neighbourhood of the village. I saw several furnaces for smelting iron, a metal which is found in great abundance among the mountains. These furnaces, which are from five to ten feet high, and eighteen or twenty feet in circumference, have a chimney at top, and four holes at the base, in the direction of east, west, north and south. At a little distance from the village, there are some small streams, which descend from the mountains and run rapidly over beds of granite. Here I took the opportunity of bathing, and some of the Mandingoes washed their clothes.

Pandeya is situated at the foot of a mountain, and contains from one hundred and fifty to two hundred inhabitants. They all came to see me, and each brought me a little present of milk. After we had reposed for a short time in the shade of some large n?d?s, and refreshed ourselves with the milk, for which we were indebted to the generosity of the Foulahs, my guide Ibrahim and his comrades proposed to buy a bullock, to celebrate the festival of the Ramadan, which happened on the following day. He asked me, through the medium of the young Foulah, who spoke English, whether I would pay my share of the price. This I declined doing, alleging that I had a long journey to perform with very scanty resources; and Ibrahim said no more on the subject. They purchased the bullock for four bars of tobacco; about the value of two gourdes, the joint contribution of about twelve or fifteen of our party, including the travelling Foulahs.

On the 28th of April, which was the grand festival day, we staid at Pandeya, and about eight in the morning the merchants all ranged themselves in a line to repeat the prayer. I took care to be among them and even affected greater devotion than any of the rest. The prayer being ended, the bullock was killed. The Mandingoes spent nearly an hour in equalizing the lots of meat. They each took a little bit of wood to serve as a measure, and after mingling them all together, the lots were distributed. Some of the meat was dried and smoked, that it might keep for the journey; but a considerable portion was immediately boiled with rice for the festival.

I received numerous visits from Foulahs, who brought me their usual presents of milk and rice, which were all they had to give. The festival was celebrated with considerable gaiety. The Mandingoes, in particular, indulged in tumultuous manifestations of joy. They fired several discharges of musketry, and afterwards all the negroes assembled round my guide's hut and sang songs in his praise. He was, as I have already mentioned, the chief of the caravan; and it was he who furnished the gunpowder for the rejoicings. These people have a bad habit of putting too great a charge of powder into their muskets, and on this occasion one of them burst in the hands of a negro; but fortunately, the poor fellow was not hurt. About eleven in the forenoon Ibrahim, accompanied by the two Mandingoes who were engaged in the dispute to which I have already alluded, came to invite me to partake of their dinner, and they again requested me to forget what had passed. I accepted the invitation. On entering Ibrahim's hut, I saw a large calabash full of boiled rice, upon which was laid a considerable quantity of the beef. We sat down and each helped himself with his hands, according to the negro custom. When the rice was finished, Ibrahim distributed the meat. I observed that the Mandingoes ate an unusual quantity that day. Eating, indeed, seems be the highest pleasure they are capable of enjoying. During the rest of the day they were very merry, and they exchanged the bullock's hide for some rice, which we ate during our journey.

On the 29th of April, the remainder of the meat which had been smoked all night was put into leather bags, and we resumed our journey at six in the morning. Opposite to the village, about half a mile to the north, there was a small chain of mountains, with level summits; and at each extremity of the chain one rises to a considerable height above the rest, like the turret of an ancient castle. These mountains have no vegetation. We proceeded for a mile eastward, upon rocks level with the surface of the ground, of a reddish colour and porous nature, and we next ascended a mountain composed of blocks of beautiful black granite, among which grew various large trees particularly the n?d?, which abounds throughout all this part of the country. The road was very bad; we had to walk upon black calcined stones, which had the appearance of being of volcanic origin. After crossing several little streams that flow over beds of rock, we came to a mountain about five or six hundred ordinary paces high. It is called by the natives Touma, and it separates the country of Irnank? from the Fouta-Dhialon. We rested for a short time on its summit. My companions assured me that the road thence to Cambaya, my guide's village, would be better than the preceding part of our journey. I observed in this neighbourhood some very fine indigo, and some bombaces which rivalled in size the enormous baobabs on the banks of the Senegal.

The country of Irnank? lies to the west of the Fouta, and to the east of Kakondy. It has on the north the negroes who inhabit the neighbourhood of Casamance; and on the south the Timannee negroes, who occupy a tract of country not far from Sierra-Leone. Irnank? is studded with lofty mountains, and inhabited by pastoral Foulahs. They possess fine flocks, which are their principal wealth. The complexion of these Foulahs is a lightish chesnut colour; they have good countenances, high foreheads, aquiline noses, and thin lips, and their heads are somewhat of an oval shape. The only point in which they resemble the Mandingoes is their curly hair. They hold themselves very upright, and walk with an air of dignity; for they think themselves far superior to the other negro tribes. Their dress, like that of the Mandingoes, is exceedingly simple; it consists of a coussabe, or shirt, of white cloth, of their own manufacture, and a pair of trowsers. The trowsers are made of coarse cloth; they are very wide, and confined round the waist by means of a buckle; they reach about half-way down the leg, where they are left loose. A cap of the same material completes the costume. When these negroes travel, they are armed with bows and poisoned arrows, and they also carry lances. They rub their bodies all over with butter, and they put a great deal upon their heads, which occasions a very disagreeable smell. The women take remarkable pains in dressing their heads. They plait their hair and adorn it with various glass trinkets. They wear amber necklaces, and their whole appearance is animated and pleasing. In these mountains there are many Dhialonk?s, the ancient possessors of the country of Fouta-Dhialon, which was conquered long ago by the Foulahs, who compelled part of the population to embrace Mahometanism. Those who refused to forsake idolatry became tributaries to the almamy, or chief, of Irnank?. They pay their tribute in cattle. These people are very mild and hospitable to the strangers who are continually travelling through their mountainous country. They have a particular dialect, which the Foulahs do not understand.

After resting for a short time, we continued our journey eastward. The road was interspersed with small masses of rock, which incommoded me exceedingly; for, as I could not walk with the sandals of the country, I was obliged to go barefoot. We passed Courgin, a little village containing a population of about one hundred and fifty or two hundred. The masses of rock were succeeded by stones, apparently volcanic. Proceeding nine miles further, to the east, we arrived at three in the afternoon at Comi-Sourignan, a pretty village, situated on a hill, and containing about one hundred and fifty inhabitants. The aspect of the surrounding country was beautiful; it was interspersed with fine hills, covered with brilliant verdure. The soil, which is of a yellow colour, is very productive. The village, enclosed by a quick-set hedge, is very clean. The huts are surrounded by gardens, containing plantations of pistachio-nuts, cassavas, caribbee cabbages, and other things. These gardens, which are cultivated by women and children, are kept in very good order, and the little paths leading to the huts are cleanly swept. The chief, in whose presence we said the prayer, invited Ibrahim and me to his hut, where he made us partake of his dinner, consisting of boiled rice with a little sour milk. We seated ourselves on a mat, near a little fire; for fires are always kept burning here, on account of the humidity of the climate. When our repast was ended, the wife of the chief came and sat down beside us. She listened in silence to our conversation: we were speaking of the christians, who are always objects of contempt among these people. The wife of the chief kindly asked me to take a little milk, and then she went to gather some figs and bananas, and put them into a clean calabash, which she gave to me and my guide. This woman had a pleasing countenance, and her dress, which was very clean, consisted of two breadths of cotton cloth of the manufacture of the country. She had not the offensive smell of the women of the roving Foulahs of Irnank?. The hut was large and in good order; the floor was adorned with handsome designs, made of earth. We passed the night in this pretty village.

At half-past five, on the morning of the 30th of April, we took leave of our kind hosts, and proceeded to the S. E., crossing an extensive plain, apparently susceptible of high cultivation. In descending, we turned an elevated plain, situated in the province of Timbi. The plain in this part is covered with red rocks, level with the ground; the country is, generally, very open. We saw several hillocks within the distance of seven or eight miles round us. We met a Bondou negro, who said that he had come from Bouliban?, the capital of the country, and was going on a trading expedition to Kakondy; he had nothing with him but gold. I was very much astonished that this man should undertake so long and difficult a journey on foot, when he was within reach of our establishments at Bakel, which are provided with all sorts of merchandise. We proceeded eastward, crossing a pretty valley, situated between two hills, and containing three villages; the largest is Telewel: its population is, at most, five hundred. I was overtaken by a Foulah, accompanied by one of his wives, carrying on her head a calabash full of milk, which he begged me to accept. Ibrahim, my guide, having stopped for a short time, had informed this Foulah that I was an Arab from the neighbourhood of Mecca, and related to him my adventure at Alexandria. The zealous disciple of the prophet thought that he was performing a meritorious action in the eye of God by giving me a little milk. When he left us he extended his hand to me, and wished me a speedy return to my country. The road now became somewhat more stony, and we halted for a short time beneath the shade of some trees to wait for our companions. Several women brought us bananas and figs, fourteen of which I purchased for three glass beads.

We pursued our journey across a plain, composed of a yellow fertile kind of earth, and we next arrived at Bouma, a village situated near a pretty little stream; the silvery waters flow over a bed of granite in a S. E. direction. This stream falls in cascades, the murmur of which is heard at a considerable distance. After passing this place, we came to enormous rocks of granite level with the ground; our road was interspersed with those little hillocks with which all this part of the country is covered. When we approached Bouma-Filasso, a village on the declivity of a mountain, I saw a great deal of indigo growing spontaneously; I also saw some cotton plantations. The country is clothed with superb vegetation, and has a very beautiful aspect. I remarked several spots recently cleared for planting. We descended a hill, at the foot of which runs the river Cocoulo, which at this part is about forty or forty-five paces wide; it flows rapidly over a bed of granite from N. N. E. to S. W.: where we forded it, the water was more than knee-deep. In several places its bed is dry, and it is necessary to walk over large masses of granite covered with mud, which renders the passage slippery and dangerous. At a little distance from this place it falls over a precipice to the depth of sixty feet, making a terrific noise. I stopped for a short time to contemplate this cataract. The Cocoulo runs among high mountains covered with large trees, among which the native plum-tree is very abundant. After crossing the river, we proceeded S. S. E.; we passed near Marca, a small village, containing from two hundred and fifty to three hundred inhabitants, and situated on a very fertile soil. About three o'clock we passed Dayeb. The road was stony from this place to Tin-foulasso, a village surrounded by cotton plantations, in a plain of grey fertile sand. At five in the afternoon we halted, much fatigued, at Gn?r?-temil?, having travelled twelve miles in the course of the day. During our halt a violent storm arose. As I was an object of general curiosity, the inhabitants came out in crowds to look at me; some brought me little presents of milk and smoked meat. Many of these poor creatures had ulcers in different parts of their bodies: I became their physician; and I gave them some caustics and lint. They evinced their gratitude by sending me a good supper. Ibrahim, fearing that I should consume all my stock of medicaments, strongly advised me not to give them any more, alleging as a reason for this uncharitableness, that they might take me for a christian.

At six o'clock in the morning of the 1st of May, we left the village of Gn?r?-temil?, the population of which is about two hundred and fifty. The rain of the preceding evening purified the atmosphere and added new charms to the surrounding scenery. We journeyed on cheerfully to E. S. E. I saw an ouroud?, or slave village, surrounded by good plantations of bananas, cotton, cassavas, and yams. We passed Maraca, after which we found ourselves in a sandy plain, containing several small slave villages, and sat down beneath a tree to wait for some of our party, who were lingering behind.

The negroes of the village of Bourwel brought us some delicious oranges: after eating them we pursued our journey along the side of a deep valley adorned with large trees. Having descended a rapid slope, we came to very fertile land. About two in the afternoon We halted at Popoco, situated in the plain, having travelled eight miles since morning.

Popoco -- Granite mountains -- We cross the B?-fing near its source -- Great cataract -- Fouta-Dhialon. -- Langou? -- Couroufi -- Schools -- Albinos -- Industry of the inhabitants -- The traveller obliged to turn physician.

The 2nd of May was employed in procuring carriers for our luggage, as those who had come with us from Kakondy would not proceed any further. About three in the afternoon some of our fellow-travellers left us, and amongst the number was my young interpreter. I confessed that I was sorry to part with him, for his conversation sometimes helped to while away the weariness of the journey. He talked of his country, to which he appeared fondly attached. He was sorry, he said, to see it desolated by the civil war which had existed since it had had two sovereigns, each supported by a formidable party. I shall treat of this subject more at length hereafter.

We escorted our companions out of the village. As we could not procure porters, we were obliged to stay there the whole of the 3rd of May. The inhabitants, having learned who I was from my guide, Ibrahim, thronged to see me, and our hut was all day full of visiters. They overwhelmed me with troublesome questions, and some of them made me little presents. I sent to buy some cassava with glass beads; but the people who sold it would not take payment. The news of the arrival of an Arab, a countryman of the prophet's, spread through all the neighbouring villages. I was visited by several great marabouts, or priests, who in that country receive the name of Tierno. The chief of Ti?l?ri, a village two miles north of Popoco, sent me a present of some milk, and a colat-nut, a mark of very high respect. The women in this country have an unusual share of curiosity. They came to see me, and gave me cassava. Some of them knelt down when they presented it to me.

Popoco is situated in a fertile plain. The soil is a kind of black sand. The village is large, containing between one hundred and fifty and two hundred slaves, who are employed in agriculture. I saw cassava, yams, and pistachios, thriving well. The inhabitants also grow a considerable quantity of rice and millet. At a little distance from the village there are some orange-trees.

I learned here that the Fouta-Dhialon had been divided by two parties since the death of the almamy Gadry, whose reign had been tranquil. Tierno-Boubacar, and Tierno-Yayaye, each claimed the right of succeeding him, and they were at war. Yayaye, whose party was at first the stronger, withdrew for some time to wage war against the infidels. This hazardous expedition proved very unfortunate for him, as it afforded his adversary time to ingratiate himself with the people. When Yayaye returned from his expedition, in which he sustained some loss, circular letters were distributed throughout the country, proclaiming the elevation of Boubacar to the dignity of chief of the state. Yayaye retired, but without renouncing his pretensions, and still retaining a very formidable party.

Damasisya is situated to the north. We proceeded four miles E. S. E. over a gravelly soil, and at two in the afternoon halted at Dit?, where we changed our carriers. I met with a very kind reception in this little village, where I found a negro who had seen me at Kakondy; he eagerly related to the inhabitants the story which I had invented, and which produced a good effect, and was of great advantage to me. Timbo, the capital of the Fouta, is two days' journey S. E. 1/4 S. of this village, which is surrounded by a quick-set hedge.

On the 5th of May, at five in the morning some new milk was brought for my breakfast; I drank it, and was soon seized with a violent retching and pains in my stomach, which continued during a great part of the day. This illness obliged me to stop in the village with my guide. I must confess, that I entertained some apprehension of having been poisoned; but the conduct of the Foulahs, who came to inquire after me, and who appeared greatly concerned for my illness, removed this suspicion. One of them made me a present of a large fowl, which was eaten by my guide and his slaves; for my part, I could not touch food. The caravan set off, leaving me behind; but, about three in the afternoon, finding myself better, we started with the intention of overtaking it. Proceeding over a gravelly tract in a S. S. E. direction, we passed Foucouba, a village containing a population of five or six hundred. We next reached the village of Diqui, containing three or four hundred inhabitants. Here we halted a little before sun-set, and went to visit a friend of my guide's, who gave us a very kind reception. The chief invited me and Ibrahim to his hut, and asked us to partake of his supper of rice and sour milk. I ate a little of it; but this sort of food was not calculated to restore my disordered stomach. The chief proposed that I should go and see the almamy, who, he said, would receive me well, and make me handsome presents. I was not inclined to put his generosity to the test, being fearful that he might detain me. My guide answered for me, and observed, that when we should arrive at Kankan-Fod?a, his country, he would conduct me to the chief of Timbo. Our host sent us a supper of rice with roasted pistachio-nuts.

The morning of the 6th was rainy. I was visited by several women, who brought me little presents of milk, rice, oranges, &c. A shoemaker gave me a pair of sandals, which were very acceptable, mine being out of repair. About nine o'clock, the rain having ceased, we departed. Several of the inhabitants escorted us out of the village. Our course was E. S. E. The rain had purified and refreshed the air. We passed Courou, a village situated at the foot of a hill, twenty-five or thirty fathoms high. We passed through a fertile and picturesque plain, thickly bespangled with small white flowers. I saw a number of slaves employed in preparing the ground for sowing rice and various kinds of grain. After crossing a little stream, we arrived near Bady, a village agreeably situated on the banks of a rivulet which we forded, the water being nearly as high as our waists. This village contains a population of three hundred and fifty, or four hundred; it is situated in a plain, and overlooked by a hill. I saw in the neighbourhood some good plantations of a small species of tobacco.

At five o'clock in the afternoon we arrived at Doud?, a village of the same size as Bady, and about a mile and a half to the E. S. E. of it. The chief came to receive us at the entrance of the palisade, by which his grounds were surrounded. I remarked some cotton very badly cultivated. They sow it broad-cast, as we do corn, so that it grows too close, which prevents its thriving. I saw a young negress gathering the cotton, which appeared to me to be of inferior quality. We were lodged in a large and handsome hut with two doors, situated on the left of our route. Our host felt highly honoured in having beneath his roof a countryman of the prophet's; for my guide had related to him the pretended events of my youth. He came up close to me, stroked my head with his hands, and then rubbed his own face, as if this contact with a countryman of the prophet's had in it something holy or salutary. We performed our devotions together. The old man had collected near an orange-tree a great number of small flints, on which, in the spirit of penitence, he knelt to prayer. This greatly annoyed me; for I was obliged to follow his example. He afterwards presented to me a child of four or five years of age, who had sore eyes, and begged me to cure him if I could. I was much embarrassed, and told him that I had no remedy for the disorder; but my guide had assured him of the contrary, and the old man, supposing there was a want of inclination on my part, offered to pay me. I told him that my baggage had been sent forward, and that I could not overtake it till next day. He was silent, but appeared not to be best pleased with my answer. In all my life I never saw such a disease as that under which this child laboured. It suffered no pain, but it was almost deprived of sight. I have since thought that it might be a kind of cataract. The marabouts, who officiate as doctors in this country, had ineffectually exhausted all their skill in grigris, or amulets, for the patient. They could do nothing more, and the child was abandoned to its fate. I advised the pa rents to wash its eyes with a decoction of baobab leaves, which might serve as a substitute for mallows, and to take the child to Sierra-Leone for medical assistance; but they shrunk with horror from the idea of placing it in the hands of christians.

Our host gave us rice and sour milk for supper, which we ate seated under an orange tree.

At seven o'clock in the morning of the 7th of May, we prepared for departure. On going out I observed that the goats had been put for the night into a loft, ten or twelve feet high. We set out in an E. S. E. direction, and proceeded four miles down hill, by a very stony road, which brought us to Couraco, a village situated near a hill, at the foot of which flows a pretty stream. We seated ourselves on the margin of this stream to take our breakfast of rice, which we had saved from the preceding evening. Our repast being ended, we proceeded gaily on our way, in the same direction, over a very good sandy soil. We passed near Coulinco, a village containing from five to six hundred inhabitants, and surrounded by a quick-set hedge. Farther on we came to Cagnola, a fine village, situated near a hill, below which runs a stream, that we had to cross. After we had ascended the hill, the road was covered with ferruginous stones. We found ourselves on an elevated plain, whence we could perceive a chain of very high mountains, extending further than the eye could reach, from N. E. 1/4 E. to S. W. They appeared to be covered with fine vegetation. The B?-fing has its source there; and there are likewise numerous ponds of beautiful limpid water. These mountains give rise to several large rivers and streams, which fertilize this fine country and clothe it with a verdure, that is incessantly renewed. On the slope there are to be seen many small slave villages, surrounded with plantations of cotton and the fruits which are to be found in our colonies. These charming and picturesque spots delight the eye and help to relieve the monotony of the journey. Rice and many other articles are cultivated here.

A violent storm came on from the east. We rapidly descended by a declivity, covered with large blocks of black granite, and red sand mixed with stones of the same colour. We proceeded three miles E. S. E. over a stony road. I observed some ferruginous rocks, and numerous springs issuing from among them. The storm approached, and we were overtaken by the rain, which fell in torrents. I used my umbrella, but it was of little service. On every side the rain water came pouring down the hills, and swelled the streams. We hurried forward to some huts, situated near a little hill, and there we halted. This hamlet is called B?fila, a name probably derived from its vicinity to the B?-fing . We entered the hut of an old woman, who cheerfully afforded us hospitality. She gazed earnestly at me, and told me that she had never till then seen a Moor. Her little dwelling was surrounded with cassavas, caribbee cabbages, giraumons, pistachios, and gombos.

I likewise observed many kinds of herbs, with which I was unacquainted. As soon as the rain ceased, I went out to walk round the garden. The sun was not visible, and the clouds which had gathered upon the tops of the mountains, rendered the atmosphere gloomy and damp. I saw, at some distance in the plain, a stream running over a bed of pebbles, and producing a soft murmur. I might almost have fancied myself in some romantic region of fairy-land. I returned to the humble habitation of the old woman; she was gathering herbs for the supper of her little family, which consisted of two lads, who, she told me, were working in the field. I went back to our hut and roasted in the ashes some pieces of cassava, which the old woman had given me. Shortly afterwards the two young negroes entered. They had no clothing except a small piece of cloth fastened round their middle. As soon as they learned that a Moor proceeding to Mecca had become their guest, they came to me, and asked me how I was, in a very kind tone. They invited me to their hut, which was much larger than ours; and they fetched a large mat to cover me. The rain, which had begun again, continued all night, accompanied with dreadful claps of thunder and flashes of lightning, in quick succession. When I entered their hut, the kind negroes seated me near the fire upon a sheep-skin, and offered me a little sour milk, which probably they had intended for their own supper; but I should have offended them by refusing it. The mother cooked a little foign?, which grows in abundance in these mountains, for the family's supper. She placed a small pot on the fire, by the side of a large one, for boiling the herbs which she had gathered that evening. I recognized among them the calabash, the giraumon, allspice, brette, sesamum, and many others;--to these she added a little gombo. The foign?, when cooked, was placed in calabashes to be eaten. I now perceived two little girls, whom I had not before remarked. They ate their supper apart, and the old woman reserved her own portion in the pot. Ibrahim sent me my supper of rice and milk which the negroes had given me. They would not partake of it although I pressed them. They invited me to take some of theirs, which I at first declined; but, as they urged me, I took a handful and withdrew, I really wondered how the poor creatures could eat this rice; for it was without either salt or butter. They, did not like to touch my supper because they were slaves. We said prayers together, and lay down upon mats; but I was kept awake all night by the thunder.

On the 8th of May, at six in the morning, after eating a piece of the cassava which was cooked the evening before we took leave of our hostess; for the lads were already gone to the fields. We proceeded eastward; then turning into the mountains, we were obliged to climb from rock to rock. There is, however, some very good soil. We arrived on the banks of the B?-fing so called because its bed consists of enormous rocks of black granite. Some of these rocks are pointed and very sharp, so that they often cut the feet of the negroes in crossing the river. The B?-fing is the principal tributary of the Senegal: it runs from south to north among the mountains. The masses of granite, of which its bed is composed, form several islets. Its current is astonishingly rapid and white with foam, which I supposed to be occasioned by some cataract. I questioned the negroes on the subject and their answers verified my conjecture. They told me they had seen the cataract in going to Timbo, and assured me that it fell from a great height with a loud noise. We were very near the source of the river, which in this part might be about a hundred feet wide and a foot or eighteen inches deep; but its depth varies. We crossed it not without some difficulty and with the assistance of poles. I saw with some alarm a poor negro tottering beneath his load; however, we all reached the left bank without any serious accident. Several of our party had their feet cut by the sharp rocks, and although I had nothing to carry I did not escape unhurt. A great number of persons were assembled at the place where we crossed. They took no notice of me, supposing me to be a Moor.

On the right bank of the river I observed some wretched huts occupied by smiths. We continued our route to E. S. E. The soil consisted of very good red mould covered with the finest vegetation. We arrived at Langou?, a village containing between three and four hundred inhabitants. It is situated on a somewhat elevated plain, whence high mountains are to be seen in every direction. Here a storm overtook us. The inhabitants gave us a hut and sheep-skins to sit on. We made a good fire, for the atmosphere was damp. The Foulahs soon came to visit us. Not having observed me enter the place, they were much surprised to see me and took me at first for a white. They asked my guide in the Mandingo language whither I has going, and what was the object of my journey. Ibrahim very promptly informed them how I had been taken by the Europeans. The Foulahs congratulated me on my zeal and my attachment to my religion. They presented me with some rice, milk, cassava, and a fowl. They urged me to go to Timbo, assuring me that the almamy would be very happy to see me, and that he would most willingly give me a horse and a guide to take me into my own country, because, as they said, he held the countrymen of the prophet in high estimation. They added that the almamy had at that moment gone to make war against Firga, an idolatrous country, but that doubtless he would soon return to Timbo.

Seated round the fire we made a cheerful breakfast on what the Foulahs gave me. The storm having ceased, we left them, and about nine o'clock proceeded to the S. E. The sun was obscured by clouds, and the atmosphere gloomy and cool. The country, refreshed by the morning's rain, presented a most beautiful prospect. I perceived in the distance some pretty hamlets, watered by a multitude of small clear streams, flowing over beds of pebbles. They wind among the small hillocks, and seem to quit those enchanting scenes with regret. The hamlets are inhabited by agricultural slaves.

We entered the passes of the mountains, which are five or six hundred feet high, and covered with large trees, among which I observed the n?d? and the caura, or plum-tree of this country. The soil is composed of very rich grey sand, mixed with gravel. I remarked likewise some blocks of white quartz. My attention was arrested alternately by the cries of large red monkeys from two feet to two feet and a half in height, and the warbling of a multitude of birds whose plumage exhibits an endless variety of colours. We descended into a plain composed of very productive black mould, watered by a little stream, which, I was told, after many windings empties itself into the Senegal. The natives call it the Telonco. It takes its rise in the neighbourhood of a high mountain, which we had much trouble in ascending. Having crossed it, we arrived at Bougnetery, a slave village where we rested a short time, having proceeded four miles and a half to the S. E.

Continuing our journey, we turned a little mountain composed of beautiful black granite, and destitute of any kind of vegetation. A little to the E. S. E. we saw some villages in the distance: the country was covered with pasturage, which being watered by small streams grows luxuriantly. These streamlets flow on into the valleys amongst blocks of beautiful black granite. We met a Moor, with whom I conversed for a short time. He asked me some questions respecting the whites, and congratulated me on my determination to return to the religion of my fathers. We descended into a plain and proceeded three miles to the E. S. E. The country still presented the same aspect. At half past four in the afternoon, we arrived very much fatigued at Foudedia. We passed the night at the village and there found the people of our caravan who had gone on before. The chief gave us a good hut and sent us a supper of rice and milk. Several men belonging to the village, who had formed part of the expedition of the almamy Yayaye against Firga, arrived. They said that the almamy had received a check and had lost some of his troops in battle; and that one of the inhabitants of Foudedia was among the number of the slain. This intelligence occasioned great grief. The wives of the deceased, accompanied by many of his relations and friends, paraded the village, singing in a shrill tone and alternately clapping their hands and striking their foreheads. Having continued this ceremony some time, they returned to their huts, followed by a crowd of women imitating their gestures. Their cries seemed to augment their grief: they rolled on the ground striking their bodies and uttering dreadful groans. The children shed sincere tears, but the women merely made a noise; deep as their affliction seemed to be it lasted only half an hour. They then appeared clothed in white; they had a calm and resigned air, and immediately resumed their usual occupations. The men were assembled round the mosque, and seated on the ground. They appeared really afflicted at the death of their comrade, and loudly censured the conduct of their sovereign.

On the 9th of May, at six o'clock in the morning, we pursued our route in an E. S. E. direction. We went two miles, over a soil at first rather stony but which afterwards changed to black sand covered with gravel, till we came to some rocks of white quartz, and crossed a little stream the waters of which reached up to our knees. It flowed to the north over a sandy bed. Its banks were thickly wooded. I observed many tamarind-trees. The soil continued level and covered with gravel. We met many persons going to the market of Lab?, to sell calabashes and earthen pots manufactured in the country. These pots appeared to be of good materials and of much better workmanship than those made on the banks of the Senegal. I even saw some that were very well glazed. We proceeded three miles towards the east, crossing very deep ravines.

The whole of the morning of the 10th of May was occupied in paying visits to the friends of my guide. About ten o'clock I was sent for by the elders of the village: I was taken in front of the mosque, where I saw a great assemblage of Mandingoes; they were seated on the ground around two large calabashes, filled with little cakes, or handfuls of bruised rice, moistened with water, and covered with red and white colat-nuts. I seated myself on a sheep-skin which was offered me. I thought, at first, that the generous Mandingoes intended to make me a present; but I was egregiously mistaken. The conversation turned on my residence among the christians, concerning whom they entertained very erroneous ideas; they overwhelmed me with troublesome questions, and wandered widely from their subject. At length a marabout pronounced some prayers over the little cakes, which were thus converted into a sort of holy bread; they were then distributed among all present, and even the absent were not forgotten, their share being sent to them; two pieces were given to me, which, however, I did not eat. I knew not what was the occasion of this kind of treat, but conjectured that it was to celebrate the safe arrival of the traders who belonged to the place: on inquiry, I learned that it was in honour of two boys whose heads had been shaved for the first time. After the ceremony, a good breakfast was sent to us. About eleven in the forenoon we took leave of our companions, who promised to come and see me at Cambaya, where I intended to stop for some days. I was indebted for this mark of attention to the promise which I had made to give them a pair of scissors.

We continued our route to the S. E., over the mountains of granite, which extend in that direction, and amongst which there are some very fine plains of sand. We arrived near the Tankisso, a large stream which flows from W. S. W., and runs to the east, making a thousand windings amongst the mountains. The Mandingo negroes, who had made many journeys to Timbo, told me that this stream issued from the B?-fing, a little below that capital; that it emptied itself into the Dhioliba; and that Bour?, a country rich in gold, is situated on the left bank of the Tankisso, about half or three-quarters of a day's journey from the Dhioliba. My companions bathed whilst waiting for Ibrahim, who had stopped behind. Continuing our route, we descended a little mountain of pale pink quartz, the strata of which are eighteen or twenty inches thick. This road brought us into a beautiful extensive plain of firm sand, completely surrounded by high mountains, apparently of granite. In this plain was situated the village to which Ibrahim, my guide, belonged. We proceeded three miles to the east. In some places the soil consisted of grey clayey mould, mixed with small gravel. The Tankisso, after flowing among the mountains, falls in a cascade, and winds through the plain, which it fertilizes by its inundations. We advanced slowly, waiting for night to make our entrance into the village. We recrossed the Tankisso, the water of which was up to our waists. A little after sun-set we stopped to offer up our prayers; my companions then prepared to announce their arrival by a discharge of musketry, which they fired as they entered the village, about three miles eastward of our last station. When we entered the court of my guide's hut, we were greeted by a second discharge of musketry. Joy was painted in every face; the negroes embraced their children, taking them up in their arms, and inquiring after their health and that of their friends. The women also appeared equally pleased at the return of their husbands, but they did not give way to that natural and sincere joy which would be manifested on similar occasions in Europe: they approached their husbands with an air of timidity, and lowered the knee to the earth, in token of salutation, but without asking any questions. The neighbours ran in crowds to congratulate their friends on the happy termination of their journey; bullocks' hides were spread in the court-yard, and we sat down upon them in a circle, while the moon shone brightly above our heads. Much conversation took place respecting the circumstances of the journey, and the price of different commodities, especially salt. No notice had as yet been taken of me, but, as soon as I was observed, every one looked at me with astonishment, and the question, "Who is this man?" was repeated from mouth to mouth. Ibrahim was glad of the opportunity to relate my whole history, as I had told it to him; which rendered me still more an object of curiosity: I was importuned with questions, to which my guide had the kindness to reply for me. The court-yard was filled the whole evening, and about nine o'clock, a supper, consisting of rice and meat very well cooked, was brought to us: two of our travelling companions added theirs, and our party consisted of about twenty, for many of Ibrahim's relations remained without waiting for the ceremony of an invitation. All ate with great avidity, and yet no one seemed satisfied. When the company had retired, my guide sent for me to partake of some couscous, made of very good cow's milk, and then invited me to retire to rest on a bullock's hide, which he had ordered to be prepared for me in the hut of one of his wives. Although the weather was very hot, a fire had been lighted in the hut, and I found myself very much annoyed by the heat, and particularly by the smoke, which had no vent but through the straw-covered roof. My guide's wife lay in the middle of the hut, surrounded by her children.

In the course of the day Ibrahim desired one of his wives to prepare a warm bath for me. He lodged me in company with an old marabout of Bondou, who had come to this part of the country to officiate as a schoolmaster. He taught the children of the village the Koran. The method of teaching adopted among all the Musulmans of the interior of Africa is to write on small boards verses of the Koran, which are chanted by the scholars as they sit round a large fire. The lesson is written by the master himself, until the scholars are sufficiently advanced to write it themselves. At Cambaya this sort of public, school is very well managed: the master maintains the most rigid discipline. The school is attended by girls as well as boys; but the education of females is much neglected. It is thought enough if they know the first verses of the Koran: boys, on the other hand, are required to learn it all by heart, after which a more able master is found for them, and he explains to them the most difficult passages of the sacred book. The scholars, are, in some respects, the servants of their master. They fetch wood and water for him, clean his hut, cultivate his field, and gather in his harvest. The parents of the children make the tutor some little presents of cloth, tabacco, and seed to sow in his garden. The schoolmaster of Cambaya had a high reputation for piety. He was poor and took his meals at the house of the chief, who also sent for me to partake of all their repasts. In the hut of the Bondouk? I slept on the ground, upon which was spread a mat which Ibrahim had given me. The old marabout every night kindled a fire in his hut, the smoke of which I found exceedingly unpleasant. His religious zeal led him to rouse me every morning at three o'clock, to go to the mosque and return thanks to God; for the old man exercised the two-fold functions of priest and schoolmaster. The Mandingoes were far from being so very devout. They said their prayers in their huts at five or six o'clock. We were often the only persons in the mosque, though the old man used every endeavour to summon the faithful. He complained that the Mandingoes were not sufficiently attentive to prayer. On returning to our hut, I lay down on my mat to rest; but my companion, instead of following my example, spent the rest of the morning at his prayers. The good old man was very kind to me. Ibrahim was not the only person who invited him to eat with him. Many others did the same, and thus, though the old man was poor, he lived very well. I found myself extremely comfortable in the village. The people had become accustomed to my person, and my assiduity in fulfilling my religious duties, banished every suspicion of me. There was, however, one man who persisted in asserting that I was a white. He pretended to speak Arabic, of which he only knew a few words, and those he pronounced so ill that it was with difficulty I could understand him. This vexed me a little, though nobody paid much attention to what he said.

On the 13th, I was sitting at the door of my hut, holding in my hand a small board and some leaves of the Koran which I had brought with me. I was going to write down a souriat, or charm, which I wished to learn by heart, when I saw this Mandingo, who always seemed ill-disposed towards me. I beckoned to him, and, having invited him to sit down beside me, I asked him to write the souriat which I wished to learn. He was flattered by this mark of my confidence, and immediately did what I wished. From that time he became my best friend, and proclaimed through the village that there was no doubt of my being an Arab. When about to take my departure, I went to see him accompanied by my guide. He gave me a grigri, which he said would preserve me from all danger. I accepted the precious talisman with warm expressions of gratitude.

A white infant, the offspring of a negro and negress, was brought to me. The child was about eighteen or twenty months old. Its mother placed it in my arms and I examined it attentively. Its hair was curly and white, and its eye-lashes and eye-brows of a light flaxen colour. The forehead, nose, cheeks, and chin, were slightly tinged with red, and the rest of the skin was white. The eyes were light blue; but the pupil was of a red flame colour. The lips were of a rather dark red. I remarked that the child had very defective sight. I endeavoured to make it look up by drawing its attention to my beads; but it appeared to suffer pain, cried, and held down its head. It was just beginning to cut its teeth. Its lips were rather thick, and, indeed, it had altogether the Mandingo physiognomy. The infant appeared to be in good health. The negroes have no dislike to a white skin; they merely consider it as a disease. I was informed that the children of parents of this kind, that is to say, Albinos, are black.

On the night of the 13th, a gale, blowing from the east, brought us rather a violent storm. We had no rain, but a great deal of thunder and lightning. Next day the sister of the almamy Yayaye came to see Ibrahim's wife. She in formed me that a French christian, named Lesno, had come to Timbo, whither he had been sent by the chief of the Senegal. She spoke highly of the generosity of the stranger, and told me that he had solicited the almamy's permission to visit the sources of the Dhioliba. This permission, however, was not granted, and, indeed, he was not allowed to go further than Timbo, and had, in consequence, returned to the Senegal. This was said to have happened about a month before I heard of it;--no doubt the name had been corrupted, but I have not yet ascertained who was the traveller alluded to.

On the morning of the 14th of May, Ibrahim fired several musket-shots, as a signal for his friends to come and receive some little presents of tobacco which he destined for them. The court was soon crowded with old men, and as the portions had been made up on the preceding day, there was nothing to do but to distribute them; he also gave some blue Guinea cloth to each of his three wives for their dresses. After this distribution, Ibrahim was overwhelmed with benedictions. The women danced, and sang his praises, and the men offered up prayers for his prosperity. The good old schoolmaster was not forgotten. After our breakfast, which was always equally frugal, Ibrahim and I walked to the ourond? to see the slaves employed in preparing the ground for sowing. The poor slaves work entirely naked, exposed to the heat of a burning sun. The presence of their master intimidates them, and the fear of punishment expedites the work; but they make themselves amends in his absence. The women, who had very little clothing, had their children tied to their backs. They were employed in collecting the dry grass, which, being burnt, forms a kind of manure, indeed, the only kind they use.

Ibrahim assured me that rice in these fields grows to the height of four feet. The soil, which is composed of a very hard grey sand, is fertilized by the inundations of the Tankisso. The uplands, which the inundations do not reach, are planted with yams, cassava, maize, small millet, and foign?, which is much cultivated here. The foign? is sown in the course of May, and gathered in the month of July, at which time the rice is no more than four inches above the ground. Two harvests of foign? may be gathered during the year. But for the foign?, which grows very rapidly, this country would frequently be subject to famine, for the people are accustomed to sow no more rice than what they absolutely need, and very often less; in which latter case they have recourse to the foign?. I sat down for a moment under the shade of a tree, to watch the slaves work. They appeared to perform their tasks much better than the negroes employed by the Europeans on the western coast; They use but one agricultural implement, which is a hoe, made in the country, six inches long by four broad; the handle from eighteen to twenty inches long, is very much bent. Previously to sowing their rice the ground is broken up to the depth of about a foot, but the same preparation is not made for sowing the foign?. They merely cut the grass, and sow the seed broad-cast, before the ground is properly prepared, then draw the grass over the seed, which thus becomes covered. It is the business of the women to perform this simple operation. When the foign? rises above the ground, no pains are taken to remove the weeds which impede its growth. Greater attention however, is bestowed on the rice; the ground in which it grows is carefully cleared of noxious weeds. In the Fouta, I observed that the Foulahs spread burnt dung over the ground which they intend to sow: they also burn all kinds of roots and grass for the same purpose. I approached the Tankisso, the banks of which are well covered with trees: indeed, I saw the branches of several extend across the river, the navigation of which could only be attempted in the rainy season. I bathed, and found the water up to my arm-pits. The banks of the river, I observed, are composed of grey argillaceous earth, mixed with fine sand.

I rejoined Ibrahim, and we went together to see the huts of the slaves. An old woman was employed in preparing the dinner of the husbandmen, who provide their own food. Behind their huts there are small plantations of caribbee cabbage, which the women cultivate. As we were sitting near the labourers, the old woman gave her master a portion of the dinner, which she had just prepared; consisting of a calabash of foign? boiled without salt, with the addition of a sauce of different herbs and gombo, which the want of butter and salt rendered very unpalatable. I ate about a handful of it; but my guide, a little more dainty than I, refused to take any; the poor slaves, however, seemed to relish it. I was informed that, in the Fouta-Dhialon, the negroes are allowed two days in the week to work in their own fields, that is to say, the ground which furnishes their subsistence. One of Ibrahim's women brought for our dinner a calabash full of rice and milk, which she had carried on her head. We did not return to the village until a short time before day-break. My guide behaved very kindly to me, and in the evening, sitting with him in his court-yard, I amused myself by playing with his children. However, at my departure, I thought to penetrate to the east, and learned, with regret, that Ibrahim would not accompany me to Bour?, according to his promise. He alleged that he was prevented from going with me by the necessity of attending to his plantations; but that if I would wait for him, he would fulfil his promise. This proposition was far from being satisfactory to me, for I was very anxious to see myself to the east of the Fouta. I was afraid of being discovered by the Foulahs, and wished to reach Kankan before the rains, which already began to be very frequent, should have fairly set in.

On the 17th of May, I went with Ibrahim to the village, to see a drum made, which is used by these people in time of war. There were twenty Mandingoes employed in making it. The drum consisted of a large bowl, formed of the trunk of a tree, three or four feet in circumference, and from six to eight inches deep, covered with a piece of untanned bullock's hide. At the bottom of the drum were pasted a great many bits of paper, inscribed with Arabic characters. These were amulets, to preserve them from their enemies. They were employed a whole day at this work, which they regarded as an amusement.

The day was hot and stormy, and the sun was several times obscured by dark and thick clouds. In the evening a violent south wind rose, followed by thunder and lightning. Thick black clouds gathered on the summit of the mountains, surrounding the beautiful plain of Kankan-Fod?a. About eight in the evening, a heavy rain set in, and lasted all night. I could not sleep, and passed the time in reflecting on the difficulties which I should have to surmount, in crossing a country intersected by rivers and large streams, which in this season overflow their banks. I travelled on foot, for the appearance of humility which I had imposed upon myself during this journey did not allow me to purchase an animal to ride on, which would have awakened the cupidity of the various tribes that I had to visit; thoroughly persuaded that the success of my undertaking depended on this appearance of poverty.

The old schoolmaster fell ill, and I became his physician. He had a fever, and I gave him some doses of sulphate of quinine, and, afterwards, a dose of salts as a purgative; I then advised him to buy a fowl to make broth, seasoned with brettes, a sort of herb which grows in that country, but the poor old man had not the means of buying a fowl. I begged Ibrahim to make him a present of one, but he replied coldly that he had none, though I saw twenty running about in his yard. I gave the old man five tobacco leaves, to purchase a fowl, which Ibrahim found for that price; he gave it to one of his women to cook, and the schoolmaster speedily recovered. I had given Ibrahim some doses of jalap, which he had asked me for, and though nothing ailed him, he took a dose of it, with the view of having a claim on some of the broth, which he saw preparing for my patient. It was rumoured among the inhabitants that I possessed medicines for all sorts of disorders, and I was much importuned and harassed for them: Some had ulcers on the arms or legs, others, fever and bowel complaint; I was teazed all day long by demands for medicine. To cure the ulcers, I washed them with a caustic, and then dressed them with lint; and to those suffering from fever I administered a few doses of quinine, and directed a regimen, which did not always please my patients. To act up to the character of doctor, I sometimes grew angry, and threatened to abandon to their fate those who did not follow my directions. The only medicines I had were those few with which the English doctors of Sierra-Leone had been kind enough to furnish me, and I was anxious to keep them for myself, presuming that I might need them; but the Mandingoes imagined that my stock was inexhaustible, and that it might be beneficially employed in all kinds of distempers. They were continually asking me for physic, and though I was obliged to refuse them, yet they continually renewed their applications, observing that they were Musulmans as well as I, and that no Musulman ought to withhold a service which he can perform. Wearied by their importunity, I sometimes left them in an ill humour and went to lie down. They then cried out "He is a Christian! See how he behaves to us! He has medicine, and will not give any to us Musulmans." In these dilemmas, I was always much indebted to Ibrahim, who told his countrymen that I had been brought up among christians, and had learned their manners. But they constantly renewed their entreaties, and, in the end, succeeded in getting what they wanted. During the whole period of my residence at Cambaya, I was teazed in this way by the inhabitants, who were not satisfied with obtaining my medicines for nothing, but also expected tobacco, scissors, and Guinea cloth, to make coussabes. Several children used to come into the yard and ask me to dress their sores. At length, after innumerable importunities of this kind, which I omit to mention, these Mandingoes, more selfish and ignorant than deliberately wicked, began to accommodate themselves to my character, and ceased to regard me as a white. In fact, they never could conceive it possible that a European should undertake so long a journey on foot, and alone, merely from philanthropic motives. As they live in a state of ignorance and simplicity, similar to that of our first parents, unacquainted with wealth and luxury, the existence of learned societies in Europe, formed for the purpose of meliorating their condition and extending to them the advantages of knowledge and all the benefits of civilization, is to them a thing quite incomprehensible.

Ibrahim was not more sagacious than the other negroes. He did not solicit me directly, but pretended that he wished to purchase every thing; he coveted in particular, my baggage. He had brought a quantity of Guinea cloth and tobacco from Kakondy, but that did not prevent him from continually proposing to buy what I had. He alleged that my Guinea cloth was finer than his, and that the flavour of my tobacco was superior, though they were both of precisely the same quality. Sometimes he hinted to me that he was without trowsers, or that his coussabe was quite worn out; and in this way he suggested the necessity of purchasing what he wanted from me, in the hope that I should make him a present of it. While we were at Popoco, he took a fancy to a fine piece of muslin, which served me for a turban. He begged that I would sell it to him when we arrived at his village. I made him a present of it, and in return, he overwhelmed me with endless thanks.

I shall here relate an anecdote relative to my character of physician, which the Mandingoes made me assume in spite of myself.

On the 17th, I gave to a man, who had long solicited me, a dose of jalap for his wife, who he said, had the colic. He begged me to call and see her; I visited her and found her really in great pain. I made the husband promise to kill a fowl and make a refreshing broth of it, which she was to take after the jalap had operated. He came to me next day and told me that the medicine had operated very well, but that his wife still suffered from swelling of the abdomen, and begged me to give her a second dose. I supposed that this distension of the abdomen was the effect of irritation, in consequence of the jalap having been given in too great a quantity, and I told him that a second dose would probably do her a great deal of harm, and that it was necessary to let the patient have rest, and to give her the broth as I had directed. But I could not convince him. He alleged that there was a want of good-will on my part, and reiterated his request so earnestly that, for the sake of peace, I was obliged to substitute for the jalap a dose of cream of tartar, which I knew could do no harm; but the Mandingo perceived the difference, and would have jalap, insisting that it was better. Being unable to convince him, I again visited my patient. I was uneasy about the consequences of my jalap. However I diluted the cream of tartar, which she drank, and I ordered a mess of gruel to be made for her. Thus I became a physician, without having had for a moment the idea of assuming that character.

I was extremely desirous to set out as soon as possible for the country of Kankan, as I feared that I should be obliged to go to Timbo, to visit the almamy, and that I might there be discovered and arrested. It is true my skin had became so swarthy, by exposure to the sun, that I might very easily have passed for a Moor; I was nevertheless not disposed to incur the risk. My guide was employed in his husbandry labours, which were likely to detain him a month or two, and I by no means wished to wait for him so long. I therefore resolved to take advantage of the first opportunity which might occur for crossing the country which separates Fouta-Dhialon from the Kankan.

Bridge over the Tankisso -- Departure for the Kankan -- Description of Fouta-Dhialon -- Character, Manners and Customs of the Foulahs -- Country of Kankan-Fod?a -- Butter-tree -- Course of the Dhioliba--Countries of Couranco, Sangaran, and Kissi-kissi -- Mandingo marriages -- River of Bandi?gu? -- Bagaraya -- Saraya -- Bacocouda -- Warlike dances.

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