Read Ebook: Travels through Central Africa to Timbuctoo and across the Great Desert to Morocco performed in the year 1824-1828 in Two Volumes Vol. I by Cailli Ren

Font size: 10 px 15 px 20 px 25 px 30 px 35 px

Background color: BlackWhiteGrayLight GrayDark GrayDim Gray

Text color: BlackWhiteGrayLight GrayDark GrayDim Gray

Apply/Save settings

Ebook has 424 lines and 105825 words, and 9 pages

Bridge over the Tankisso -- Departure for the Kankan -- Description of Fouta-Dhialon -- Character, Manners and Customs of the Foulahs -- Country of Kankan-Fod?a -- Butter-tree -- Course of the Dhioliba--Countries of Couranco, Sangaran, and Kissi-kissi -- Mandingo marriages -- River of Bandi?gu? -- Bagaraya -- Saraya -- Bacocouda -- Warlike dances.

On the 24th of May, I went with Ibrahim to a Mandingo who was shortly to set out for the Kankan. My guide strongly recommended me to him, and I determined to avail myself of the opportunity of accompanying him. I promised that on our arrival in that country I would make him a handsome present. In the course of the day, a Mandingo asked me for medicine to cure impotence in his own person; his wife, he said, complained of him and was even guilty of infidelity. He added that a little boy who was running about was her son by one of her lovers, "But," said he, with a sigh, "I cannot blame her since I cannot do as much for her." As ginger grew in the environs, I advised him to eat plenty of it and assured him that it would do him good; but this prescription did not satisfy him. He wished for a dose of jalap, which I gave him to get rid of him.

I went to the evening prayer where, contrary to custom, I found a great number of Mandingoes assembled. On leaving the mosque they all formed a circle round the old chief. He made a short speech, informing them that a messenger had arrived from Timbo with a circular letter, which should be read to them, and to which he requested them to pay attention. A marabout who was seated beside him then read the letter aloud. It stated that the almamy Yayaye was deposed, that Boubacar had succeeded him, that he had declared himself the protector of islamism, and enjoined the people to be faithful to him. The letter was written on both sides of a piece of paper, which was about three inches broad and five long. After it had been read, the messenger, without losing a moment's time, took up his dispatch, and proceeded in the direction of Bal?ya, whether he was to carry it. This precipitate departure prevented me from copying the letter, to enable me afterwards to ascertain more precisely its contents. The chief said a prayer and invoked the favour of Heaven on the reign of the new almamy. Several Mandingoes followed his example, after which a long conversation took place on the divisions which distracted Fouta. Yayaye had retired with a party, in a way which gave reason to presume that peace would not continue long. After we had reached home, Ibrahim informed me that Yayaye on his return from Firya had not been well received by the leading men of Timbo, who had deposed him, in consequence of their disapprobation of the useless war in which he had engaged, and which had cost the country a number of men.

In the morning of the 25th of May, after giving some cream of tartar to a negro, who had teazed me for several days with applications for medicine, I went with Ibrahim to see a bridge that was building over the Tankisso. On the road, I saw some Mandingoes beating the great drum, of which I have already spoken, to summon the labourers to their work. When we arrived at the bridge, I observed six or eight men lying by the side of the water, waiting for the arrival of others. I was informed that in the rainy season the water rises to the height of twenty-five or thirty feet. The branches which bar the passage are covered by this extraordinary swell, and I was assured that the bridge is often demolished and carried away by the current. The stream inundates the plain, from which a harvest of foign? is gathered before the rice is sown. All the workmen having arrived, they set about their labours singing. They were very gay and seemed to amuse themselves much, for it was a party of pleasure to them. All the inhabitants of Cambaya, being sensible of the necessity of the bridge, had resolved to assist in the labour. The bridge was about forty or forty-five feet long, six or seven feet broad. It was formed by driving a number of thick poles close together in the middle of the stream, to which were attached cross-pieces of timber, and these in many places were supported by branches of trees which overhung the stream. On the traverses pieces of plank, firmly bound together by lianes, a very flexible kind of wood, were laid lengthwise. Pieces of wood were then laid on crosswise at the distance of a pace from each other, to afford a secure footing to passengers over this unsteady bridge. I was assured that if it were not supported by branches of trees it could not resist the rapidity of the current. It was finished in a few days, for there was abundance of workmen. The whole population of Cambaya contributed to forward the work. Several women brought calabashes of rice and foign? to their husbands for dinner. I was invited to partake, and, having all sat down without distinction in a circle, every one helped himself. We then returned merrily to the village.

On the 26th of May, I went with Ibrahim and Lamfia, who had undertaken to be my guide to the Kankan, to inform the chief of the village of my intended departure. My old guide asked me, in his presence, whether I would not, before leaving them altogether, go to Timbo to see the almamy. I told him that I should be happy to do so, but that the road from Cambaya to Timbo was intersected by high mountains, which it was difficult to cross, and the passage of which would greatly fatigue me: I stated besides, that I was anxiously desirous to continue my journey to the east before the rains became more frequent, as it would then be impossible to travel without encountering great difficulties. He acknowledged the justice of my observations, and agreed that I should set out with Lamfia, to whom the worthy chief particularly recommended me, directing him to deliver me to the chief of Kankan, who would take care to have me conducted to Bour? in safety. During my residence at Cambaya, I was extremely attentive to my religious duties, and to impress more strongly the idea of my piety, I studied the Koran day and night. I settled with my new guide that he should carry my baggage to the Kankan, and our agreement was, that he should be rewarded with four yards of Guinea cloth, which I gave him before our departure. To Ibrahim, with whose conduct I was well satisfied, I gave a handsome present, consisting of amber, printed calico, Guinea cloth, gunpowder, paper, scissors, and silk handkerchiefs. He begged me not to mention this present to any one: he was desirous of passing for a generous Musulman, though avaricious, like all his countrymen. Their generosity towards me never went further than two or three colat-nuts, while the Foulahs, who came to Cambaya to sell salt or other merchandise, always made me little presents, and never looked for any thing in return.

In two days our journey was to commence, and we set about making arrangements for it; that is to say, Lamfia provided a supply of rice for our subsistence on the road. Ibrahim promised to give me some provisions, but when the time for setting off arrived, his promise was forgotten. Our neighbour, a worthy old Foulah, who had settled in the country, caused a large loaf of cagna to be prepared for me; this kind of bread is a compound, as I have already mentioned, of pistachio-nuts, maize, and honey. The name of this Foulah was Guibi. He gave me the loaf, he said, to amuse me on the road, and assured me, that were it not for the necessity of attending to his husbandry labours, he would himself accompany me to Kankan. Ibrahim also offered to have a cake of the same sort made for me if I would buy the honey, and I thanked him for his kindness. He seated himself beside me, and told me that, in the countries through which I should have to travel on my way home, I should often be troubled by the Mandingoes, and advised me as a friend not to shew any ill-humour when they applied to me for medicines, because in these parts the people might not be so easily managed as in Cambaya. I thanked him, and promised to follow his counsel. In the course of my conversations with the Foulah Guibi, he often observed that the Foulahs were the whites of Africa, and the Mandingoes, the negroes; by which he meant to impress upon me the superiority of the former.

Fouta-Dhialon is governed by an almamy, appointed by the chiefs of the country. They assemble to elect him, and have also the right of deposing him if he does not give satisfaction. The government is theocratic.

The Foulahs of Fouta are in general tall and well made; their manner is noble and dignified; their colour is a bright chesnut, somewhat darker than that of the wandering Foulahs: they have curly hair like the negroes, a rather high forehead, large eyes, and aquiline nose, thin lips, and the face a little elongated. In short, as to their features, they approximate to the European physiognomy. They are all Mahometans, and extremely fanatical. They hold the christians in horror, and are fully persuaded that they wish to obtain possession of the gold mines, situated to the east of Fouta. It is for this reason they take such precautions to prevent the christians from penetrating into that part of the country. They do not travel like the Mandingoes to distant places, but prefer remaining quietly at home, and superintending their slaves, who form an important part of their property. They are jealous and envious; they often impose rigorous exactions on foreign merchants passing through their country, especially when they are rich. They are, nevertheless, very hospitable, and generously assist their countrymen. I never saw a mendicant among them. In their mountains they cultivate rice, maize, and millet; and also cotton, of which they manufacture stuffs in pieces only five inches wide. These narrow strips are used for covering their nakedness. The principal trade of the country is in salt and cotton cloth; they go to Kakondy to barter leather, rice, wax, and millet, for salt, with which they afterwards purchase stuffs at Kankan and Sambatikila. Some Foulahs likewise travel to Bour? to procure gold, which they barter on the coast for muskets, gunpowder, glass trinkets and other articles, with which they purchase slaves. The Foulahs are warlike and ardently love their country. When at war they all take the field without distinction, leaving only the old men and women at home. Many are armed with muskets and sabres, but the bow and the lance are the weapons of the majority. They all carry a poniard the blade of which is in general straight, though I have seen some of them curved. These poniards are made in the country. They are dressed in a coussabe, which is commonly made of white stuff, and breeches, the fashion of which I have already described, of the same. They also wear a pagne, which they pass round the body, sandals and a red cap. Their hair is plaited, and greased with butter. A Foulah seldom goes out without taking several lances in his hand. I remarked that their dress was always very neat and clean. They often wash the whole body, and always with tepid water. In every village there is a public school for the children. The classes meet in the morning and evening in the open air beside a large fire. When they are able to read the Koran, they are considered well instructed. I observed that in this country the parents are always very indulgent to their children, who in their turn are always docile and obedient. The Foulahs of this part of Africa do not let their children run naked. They have always a coussabe. Those who come to our establishments are not so neatly dressed, because when they travel they put on their worst clothes. They keep their salt in the leaves of trees very ingeniously arranged for that purpose. They take a great deal of snuff, but do not smoke; and the tobacco purchased in our settlements is preferred by them to that which grows in their own country. The women are lively, handsome, and good tempered. They clean their teeth with snuff. Their dress, though simple, is always neat and clean. Like the whole of their sex throughout every part of the interior, they are completely subject to the will of their husbands. They never venture to take the slightest liberty with their lords and masters. On the other hand, I cannot say that I ever saw the husbands beat their wives. Like the Mandingoes, they may have four; the Koran does not permit them to take more. This privilege is however only exercised by the rich; the poor never have more than two wives. These women cultivate a little garden adjacent to their huts; they have detached sleeping places, and they also take their meals separately, seldom eating together. Each in her turn prepares the husband's supper. He gives to each wife a cow, which she milks, morning and evening. Their domestic utensils consist solely of some calabashes, to hold milk and the food prepared for consumption, two or three earthen pots, and a large jar, in which their dry rice is deposited. Around the inside of the hut a little elevation is formed, about six or eight inches high and a foot broad, upon which these utensils are placed. At the farther end there is a kind of bed, similar to that in the hut of the chief, which I have already described. In the floor of each hut are fixed four poles, supporting a kind of ceiling made of bamboo, serving as a protection against the soot with which the roof is covered. In general, the women appear very happy, and by no means jealous of each other, except when the husbands make a present to one without giving any thing to the rest. They often asked me for amber and coral, and did not appear much offended when I refused to comply with the demand. The Foulahs keep a great number of black cattle sheep and goats. They have horses of a small breed, a few asses, some dogs, and abundance of poultry. They make frequent journeys to Sierra-Leone, where they sell their cattle for the supply of the colony. The soil is prolific of all the necessaries of life; as rice, millet, yams, cassava, caribbee cabbage, oranges, bananas, &c. The diseases which I noticed in the country are leprosy, swelling of the neck, or goitres, fevers, and ophthalmia. I never observed any venereal malady. The Foulahs are haughty, distrustful, and of very questionable veracity. They are also accused of indolence and of a disposition to pilfering. They are however sober and support the greatest privations with fortitude. Like all Musulmans they are very superstitious, and have great confidence in their grigris, and when they go to war they are covered with these charms. They are naturally brave, and compel the surrounding tribes either to embrace Mahometanism or to become their tributaries. During my residence at Cambaya, I did not observe that there was any particular judge or tribunal established there for settling differences, such as Mungo Park has described in treating of the Gambia; disputes indeed often arose, but they were settled by the elders of the village. They do not even go before the chief unless when the complaint is of a serious nature, and in that case they often refer it to the decision of the almamy of Timbo, which is two days' journey to the W. S. W. of Cambaya.

Every married Mandingo is in his own family a respected chief. His hut stands in the middle of the huts occupied by his wives. On entering it, no domestic utensil is to be seen except two large jars containing the stock of grain for the year, which he deals out in portions to his wives. The bullock's hide on which he sleeps is the only furniture of his hut, and its only ornaments are his weapons when he puts them out of his hands.

Kankan-Fod?a, of which Cambaya forms part, is a small district, inhabited by Mandingoes subject to the almamy of Timbo. It is situated in an immense plain, composed of grey sand mixed with some gravel. The soil is fertilised by the inundations of the Tankisso, which makes a thousand meanders through this beautiful country. After winding to the south, it flows to the N. E., then turns to the N. N. E, and finally, after numberless sinuosities, discharges itself into the Dhioliba. Bour? is situated on the left bank of the Tankisso, at the distance of a day's journey from its junction with the Dhioliba. All the Mandingoes of Cambaya concur in describing that country as being rich in gold mines, and possessing an extremely fertile soil, which however is not cultivated by the inhabitants, who purchase every thing, even pistacho-nuts, with gold. The plain of Kankan-Fod?a is surrounded by mountains about one hundred fathoms in height. They are inhabited by pastoral Foulahs who rear numerous flocks. The butter-tree grows in the mountains as well as in the plain. Some of the fruit was brought to me and I liked it; but as animal butter abounds in the country it is preferred. This vegetable is applied as a remedy for pains and wounds, and some of it is sold to the European settlements on the coast.

The 29th of May was employed in making our preparations. I arranged my baggage, which since my arrival had been left in Ibrahim's hut, because, that in which I slept was not within the inclosure and had no fastenings. I often examined it, and several times suspected that it had been meddled with; I thought so from the manner in which it was tied up; I had some pieces of stuff which had been cut, some tobacco, and some glass ornaments, which seemed to please the people greatly. I could not however ascertain whether they had robbed me or not, and I chose rather to presume that they had been induced by curiosity to examine my property than to suspect them of theft. I made a little present to the Foulah Guibi, in return for the pistachio bread which he had given me.

In the evening I took leave of the chief who had been so kind to me; I made him a present of some gunpowder, which pleased him much; he gave me his blessing, and offered up prayers for the prosperity of my journey.

We soon reached Bagaraya, which is situated two miles east of Cambaya; our road was covered with butter-trees. The chief of the village received us well: he gave us a good hut, and sent me a supper of rice. He said he had not heard of me all the time I was at Cambaya. The saracolets, to whom I was recommended by Ibrahim's father, had set out in the morning to cross the woods which separate the Fouta-Dhialon from Bal?ya. The evening was rather stormy, the sky dark and cloudy, and the heat oppressive. I went to the mosque with my new guide, who shewed me great kindness, and seemed anxious to anticipate all my wishes; he even carried his attention to the length of servility. As I was leaving the mosque the people all thronged round me, and looked at me with great curiosity; Lamfia replied to their questions, and informed them of the circumstances which occasioned me to visit their country: he told them I was a sherif of Mecca, doubtless with the view of rendering me an object of greater respect than I should otherwise have been. The village of Bagaraya is inhabited partly by Dhialonk?s and partly by Mandingoes: its population is between three and four hundred. There is a mosque approriated to the women, who, according to the Mahometan custom, cannot enter that which is attended by the men. On our return to our hut, we had a visit from the chief, who sat a short time with us; he talked very much, and asked me many questions about the way in which I had been treated by the christians: I endeavoured to remove the bad opinion he entertained of us: he imagined that I must have been beaten and ill-treated by the infidels.

We were obliged to stay at Bagaraya the whole of the 31st of May, having to wait for some Mandingo merchants, who proposed travelling in our company; our road to Bal?ya led through woods which are infested by robbers, and, as our party was not sufficiently strong to resist an attack, we thought it prudent to wait for the merchants who were to join us.

Among the Mandingoes, marriages are contracted without much ceremony. When a man sees a woman whom he wishes to marry, he gains the good graces of her parents by sending presents to them as well as to the daughter. The price which the bridegroom is to pay for the bride is agreed upon: it consists of one, two, or three slaves, according to the beauty and other recommendations of the bride. These slaves are given to the mother, who, if satisfied with the price, consents to her daughter's marriage. The husband defrays all the expence of the nuptial feast, which usually takes place at night, and when it is over, the marriage is consummated, without the observance of any religious ceremony.

It rained a little during the evening, and some thunder was heard, but the storm did not last long. In the course of the night, I heard the joyous songs of the negroes and negresses, who were dancing to the sound of a small drum. Their dance was more decorous than that of the Wolof negroes in the neighbourhood of the Senegal: it was little more than walking in measured time accompanied by motions of the arms and head. The women all wore two pagnes, and their head-dress consisted of a piece of cloth passing over the forehead, and fastened at the back of the head. They plait their hair and grease it with butter. I had not the pleasure of seeing the bride. I was not even invited to the feast; but this I had no reason to regret, for, from what I saw of it, it was not very tempting.

At six on the morning of the 4th of June, we set off and travelled four miles to the S. E. among the gorges of mountains of granite. Our caravan consisted of fourteen men and one woman carrying a burthen. We proceeded three miles over a tract of country covered with trees and fine vegetation: the c? or butter-tree was growing in profusion, and I also saw the indigo and n?d?. We met a party of Foulah traders returning from Kankan. They took me at first for a christian, and exclaimed with astonishment:-- "A white going to the east! Surely, the great men of the Fouta do not know this, or they would not suffer it." They even wished to prevent me from going further; but Lamfia, my guide, who had lingered a little behind, came up and put a stop to the discussion, which might have become serious, for I could not explain myself very well in the Mandingo language. My guide related the manner in which I had been taken by Europeans, and assured them that I was a real Arab, a sherif of Mecca; for these people had never heard of Alexandria, my pretended country. Lamfia informed them that I had crossed the Fouta in safety, that all the inhabitants had received me well, and even made me presents; that I read the Koran, a thing which a christian would never do. "Besides," added he, "the christians never travel alone and on foot. They only go by rivers in vessels." The prevailing idea of the people in the interior of the Soudan is, that we inhabit little islands in the middle of the ocean, and that the Europeans wish to get possession of their country, which is the most beautiful in the world.

One of these Foulahs addressed to me a few words in Arabic, to which I replied. This quite ingratiated me with him; as it afforded him an opportunity of proving to his companions that he spoke that language, which flattered his vanity; for the negroes are, in general, fond of shewing their superiority over their fellows. The Foulah then assured his companions that I was a real Arab, and they allowed me to continue my journey.

After proceeding a little distance, we halted and entered some huts made for sheltering travellers from the rain. These huts are very simple. A row of poles is driven into the ground, and branches of trees are laid in a slanting direction, that is to say, resting against the tops of the poles, and sloping gradually to the ground. They are covered with straw, and defended from the wind by pieces of wood, placed transversely, forming a sort of hedge sloping very much towards the ground, and to the west.

My guide's wife prepared our dinner. Lamfia provided food for some of the negroes of the caravan, for they had brought no women with them, and they had no pots for boiling their rice.

We caught a sheep which had, no doubt, strayed from its owner. The Mandingoes held a council to deliberate whether they should kill it. They agreed that there would be no impropriety in doing so, since they did not know the owner. The animal was accordingly killed, and we had a good supper to help us on our way. In all negro countries meat is a great luxury and, in general, it is only eaten on festival days. The sheep we caught was with lamb; but we nevertheless found the meat very good.

The place where we encamped was called Sokodatakha, a name derived from the trees by which it is shaded. It is a large sandy plain, covered with trees and beautiful verdure, and surrounded by granite hills, nearly three hundred feet high. These hills have no vegetation. We passed the night in the huts which I have above described, on the outside of which large fires were kindled, though the weather was very warm. In the middle of the night our rest was disturbed by a storm. I could not sleep on account of the rain, for our huts were by no means weather-proof.

At half past six on the morning of the second of June, we again set off in high spirits, though our clothes were very wet. Our course lay to the east. The country was woody and our road rather gravelly. The c? and the indigo are abundant in this part. After we had travelled about fifteen miles over a hard sandy soil, covered with gravel, we found the trees, though still numerous, neither so large nor so high as before. We were overtaken by a violent storm from the east: the wind was cold and the rain fell in torrents. In a moment, the whole plain was flooded with water, through which we waded, ancle-deep. I opened my umbrella; but it was impossible to hold it on account of the wind. I was drenched to the skin. Fortunately, I had taken the precaution to keep my notes in a little portfolio of untanned calf-skin. We took shelter under some huts similar to those in which we passed the preceding night. About three in the afternoon the rain ceased, the sun re-appeared, and the surrounding country was clothed in new charms. We prepared to kindle a fire; but this was no easy task, on account of the wetness of the wood. However, we at length succeeded and dried our clothes. We burned a great deal of straw; for it was scarcely possible to make the wood burn, even after we had dried it at the straw fire. We met some travellers coming from Bal?ya, who, like us, had braved the storm. They were laden with white cloth of the manufacture of the country, which they were going to exchange for salt in the Fouta-Dhialon.

I had seated myself for a few moments behind a bush in order to make some notes, when I saw the wife of Lamfia advancing towards me. I immediately hid my paper and took up my trowsers which were drying at the fire. She returned to her husband, who asked her whether I was writing:--"No," replied she, "he is putting on his clothes." I was near enough to hear this conversation, which sufficiently indicated that they suspected me. I therefore became doubly cautious, and shewed a greater assiduity in the study of the Koran. When, on the road, I sometimes withdrew a little from my companions, I saw them looking at me and endeavouring to discover what I was about; but I always took care to hold in my hand a leaf of the Koran, on which I laid my note paper, and when I saw any one advancing towards me I concealed my writing and pretended to be reading a verse of the sacred book.

We had a little of our mutton left, of which we made a good supper: Lamfia and I ate together, and the other Mandingoes took their meals apart. In spite of the distrust which he appeared to entertain, from his having sent his wife to watch whether I was writing, he was, nevertheless, very kind to me, always taking my part against those who doubted my conversion, alleging that I was a sherif, which seemed to be a satisfactory answer to every objection. He was older than the other individuals of the caravan, and, therefore, had some ascendancy over them. This respect for age is universal among the negroes, who never undertake any thing without consulting the elders of their villages. At the place where we were now encamped the soil was good, consisting in some places of black, and in others of red, mould, like that of Sierra-Leone, mixed with stones. I saw some palm-trees growing here.

On the 4th of June, at six in the morning, we left the banks of the Ba-ndi?gu?, and found the plain covered with a beautiful white narcissus. We took a very pleasant road to the south-east. About eight o'clock we seated ourselves under a large bombax to breakfast. In this part huts are erected for the accommodation of travellers, and I saw many c?s in the neighbourhood. We now heard the sound of a drum proceeding from Saraya, the first village eastward of Bal?ya. After a good breakfast of rice and smoke-dried fish, we proceeded nine miles eastward over a sandy soil. The country is very open, and its uniform level is not broken by a single hillock. Having crossed the Ba-ndi?gu? by a tottering bridge made of the branches of trees, we reached Saraya about three in the afternoon.

We stopped the whole of the 5th of June at Saraya, in order to recover a little from our fatigue. My feet were very painful, for my sandals galled me.

I surveyed the village and its neighbourhood. It is surrounded by two earth walls, nine feet high, and eight or ten inches thick. The entrance gate is surmounted by a close range of loopholes for muskets. I also remarked a little sentry box, round which there were holes looking in every direction. This village, which is on the frontier of Bal?ya, is situated in a sandy plain, level, open, and fertile. I saw in the neighbourhood large bombaces, baobabs, n?d?s, and c?s. Indigo grows here without cultivation, and is employed by the natives for dying their cloths. I shall hereafter describe the way in which they use it. Water is procured here from wells, two feet deep, and though rather thick, it is very pleasant to the taste. The negroes of Saraya, who are all Dhialonk?s, came to see me during the day, and brought me little presents of milk, and the chief gave me a fowl, which we ate for supper. I gave Lamfia some glass trinkets to purchase rice and honey, as I wished to treat the people of our caravan. I observed that Lamfia kept some of the glass for himself; but this was a trifle which I did not think worth while to notice to him. I asked him to get the rice pounded, and made into cakes with the honey which I had bought and that which the people had given me. Lamfia and his wife mixed with their dirty hands the flour, honey, and powdered allspice. They made it into little cakes, which, after a great deal of kneading, were baked in the sun, and put into a little bag to be eaten on our journey. To add to my stock of provisions, I bought some salt, an article which was beginning to be very scarce and dear. I learned that the village of Foho, the residence of the chief of Bal?ya, was a day's journey E. N. E. of Saraya. The people advised me not to go to Foho, "For," said they, "the chief is not a Musulman, and he will make you pay transit duties." In the neighbourhood of the village, I saw some ferruginous stones. I broke one, which contained many particles of iron. These stones are found on the surface of the soil. The inhabitants smelt them to make their agricultural implements, which consist merely of hoes, seven or eight inches long, and three broad. The ends are rounded, and the handles, which are two feet long, are much bent.

The village of Saraya contains a population of about seven or eight hundred. The inhabitants keep many cattle which at night are driven within the two walls that surround their village. I was informed that the great river flows at the distance of a day's journey south of the village. Fish are caught in it, and, after being dried and smoked, they are used as sauce, and eaten with rice: they make them also an article of trade. The whole evening the young people of this village amused themselves by dancing to the sound of a tambourine, and a small instrument made of bamboo; their dances are sprightly and decorous. My guide and I paid a visit to the chief, who received us very kindly, and offered me a sheep-skin to sit upon. The door of his court was shaded by two bombaces. He afterwards sent us a very good supper of rice and gombo.

At half past six o'clock in the morning of the 6th of June, we proceeded four miles E. S. E., over a fine plain of sand. We passed Fausimoulaya, a village surrounded by a mud wall. The country was covered with c?s and n?d?s. We crossed the Ba-ndi?gu?, which flows through a fine plain clothed with perpetual verdure. We advanced for two miles in the same direction, over a level plain, composed of red earth, with a great deal of gravel, and some red stone of the same kind as that of Sierra-Leone.

We entered the village of Sancougnan, in order to visit the chief, a ceremony which all travellers are obliged to observe. We found him lying on a large bullock's hide, with his head resting on a log of wood. My guide told him that I was a sherif going to my native country, near Mecca. This chief, who was said not to be a very pious Musulman, gave us a very kind reception. He assigned to me a very good hut, and asked me to pass the next day in his village. Lamfia met with the son of the chief of Kankan, a zealous Musulman, who had come to Bal?ya to sell a horse. I was desirous of making acquaintance with him, and with this view I gave him a sheet of paper. He spoke favourably of me to the chief of Sancougnan, who, he said, was a great warrior, and not over-devout, and therefore might make me pay a considerable tribute for liberty to pass. After our interview, which took place in a stable, where he was lying beside his horse, we went to the hut which was destined for us. The mansa, or chief, soon sent me a calabash full of rice, mixed with milk and butter, and sprinkled with salt, which we ate for dinner. I took the precaution of circulating in the village a story calculated to serve my purpose. I said that Mr. Macaulay, a merchant at Sierra-Leone, well known through all this country, had wished me to remain in the English settlement, and for that purpose offered to advance me money to carry on trade; but that I rejected the offer on account of my strong dislike to live among infidels. When in the presence of the chief, I drew forth some leaves of the Koran, which I read aloud, to induce a belief that I was a very zealous Musulman. An old man of Bondou, who was settled in the village, took the leaves of the Koran out of my hands, and wishing to show his learning, he mumbled some words in a low tone, holding the leaves sometimes sideways, and sometimes upside-down. I was so imprudent as to remark upon this, and laugh a little at his ignorance. He was offended, and immediately returned me the leaves of the Koran. He remained with the chief until we were gone, and then he asserted that I was a christian, and not a sherif, as my guide had stated.

In the evening a storm came on, and it rained heavily all night. The chief sent us a supper of rice, cooked like the last. On the morning of the 7th of June we prepared to depart. Lamfia and myself, accompanied by the son of the chief of Kankan, went to see the mansa of Sancougnan, to whom I presented seven or eight charges of gunpowder and some leaves of tobacco; Lamfia added some colat-nuts, which we distributed among the relations of the chief. They were all in their smoky hut, on the walls of which were suspended bows, arrows, quivers, and lances. A jar for water, a bullock's hide, and some mats, composed the whole furniture of the place.

We left the village about eight in the morning, and were soon after overtaken by the mansa, accompanied by the Mandingo of Kankan; the latter proved very serviceable to me on this occasion. The chief told us that the old Bondouk? had assured him that I was a European, and not a Moor; that, moreover, I was too white for a Moor; and, that we certainly intended to deceive him, in order to evade the payment of the passage duties. Here my guide behaved exceedingly well: he assured the chief that I was a real Arab, a countryman of the Prophet's, and a great sherif, supporting his assertions by the arguments which he had already employed to convince other incredulous persons whom he had met with. The Mandingo of Kankan strongly confirmed the declarations of Lamfia, who manifested much zeal, and asked the chief whether he had ever seen a christian read the Koran; the mansa concluded by saying, that he perceived the old Bondouk? had spoken falsely, and that he had no longer any doubt of my being a sherif; then, offering me his hand in token of peace, he wished me a pleasant journey, and returned to the village. We continued our route to the east, over a soil composed of gravel and volcanic stones, black, brittle, and porous. As I went along I reflected on my imprudent behaviour to the old Bondouk?, which had irritated him and induced him to seek revenge. I resolved in future to be more circumspect in my intercourse with the negroes, who, being ignorant, are naturally irritable and vindictive.

After travelling two miles, we arrived, at half-past nine in the morning, at Courouman-Cambaya, a village surrounded, like Sancougnan, with a double wall. It contains between five and six hundred inhabitants. My guides who had many acquaintances in this village, assured me that I had nothing to fear: "These people," said he, "will not take you for a christian, as they did there," meaning at Sancougnan: "they wanted to get at your baggage, for they are Kaffres, and but for the son of the chief of Kankan, we should not have come off so well." We went to one of his school-fellows, who lodged us in a good hut. It was soon filled by people, attracted by curiosity to see a sherif. I was visited by a saracolet, who was on his way from S?go to Kakondy: he addressed me in the Moorish tongue. I made him a small present of tobacco-leaves. We stopped at this village the whole of the 8th; Lamfia exchanged some salt for cloths. The heat, which had been suffocating throughout the day, was at night succeeded by a violent storm and heavy rain. On the 9th, we had to wait for several travellers who were to join us. Some persons brought me small presents of milk and a fowl, which served for our dinner. Our host was particularly attentive to us. The inhabitants were kind and hospitable: every evening by moon-light they assembled under a bombax to dance. I was much amused by seeing them caper to the sound of a little tambourine and an instrument made of bamboo, resembling a flageolet, and producing a very melodious tone.

On the 10th of June, at seven in the morning, we took leave of our host, to whom at parting I gave a sheet of paper and some tobacco, for which he loaded me with thanks. We proceeded three miles towards the east, over a plain of grey sand, covered with the most beautiful indigo, growing spontaneously. On reaching Siralia, a large village, containing from seven to eight hundred inhabitants, we went to visit the chief, who fortunately was absent: my guide assured me, that if I had seen him, I should have been obliged to make him a considerable present.

The country around the village is well cultivated. We advanced nine miles to the S. E. over a road which was partially flooded, owing to the frequent rains. On our way we saw many neat little ourond?s, surrounded by quick-set hedges, which are very ornamental. We crossed, up to our knees in water, two streams which flow to the northward, and discharge themselves into the Niger. On the N. E. of our route, a chain of small mountains was pointed out to me. This chain extends from north to east, and separates the Bal?ya from Bour?. The woods are infested by robbers, who stop travellers, and pillage them without mercy. We proceeded three miles to the S. E., over fine, level, and well cultivated ground, and arrived, at three in the afternoon, at Bacocouda, which contains between five and six hundred inhabitants. This is the last village east of Bal?ya. I and my guide waited on the chief to ask him for a lodging. We found him seated in a large hut on a bullock's hide, and surrounded by some saracolet merchants, who had arrived the preceding evening. I confess that I was not quite at my ease at sight of these merchants, for they were the same who had passed through Cambaya, in the F?uta, on their way from Gambia. One of them spoke to me in the Moorish language; I answered his questions, the chief immediately rose and conducted me into one of his huts; he gave us a sheep-skin to sit upon. My guide presently gave him an account of my adventures, to which he listened with pleasure, and approved my resolution. We retired, and went to our hut, where the saracolet, who had spoken to me in Arabic, came to see me. He told me that he had at first taken me for a christian; but that now he saw he had been deceived, and that I certainly was an Arab. He talked very much, and endeavoured to flatter me. I saw that he wanted something, and gave him a little tobacco, promising that on my arrival at Kankan I would present him with a pair of scissors: he proposed to conduct me to S?go, whence he said I could go to Jenn? by water: I told him that was just what I wished, and he took his leave. The chief sent us something for supper, and one of the inhabitants gave us some white yams boiled. The people of this village spent their evenings and great part of the night in performing martial dances. They came to borrow my guide's musket. The men dance to the sound of two tambourines. These tambourines have each a stick about fourteen inches long, one end of which is fastened to the bottom, and the other to the rim of the instrument, by strings made of sheep's gut, resembling those of the guitar; at the ends of the stick are a number of small bells, rings, and bits of iron, which make a jingling accompaniment to the sound of the tambourine, and produce a very agreeable effect. The musicians sing, and strike the tambourines with the hand; their songs stimulate the courage of the warriors, whom they exhort to fight bravely, and destroy the infidels. The actors in these mimic wars are armed with sabres, bows, and muskets; they leap and dance to the sound of the instruments, assuming menacing attitudes, as though they would destroy their adversaries: they discharge their muskets, and shoot their arrows, and afterwards, as if they had been victorious in battle, they leap and dance in token of rejoicing, and make a thousand other grimaces of that sort. This spectacle collected together almost all the inhabitants of the place. After looking on for a short time, I returned to my hut, for I was afraid of being insulted. When Lamfia joined me, he told me that the dance we had just witnessed was a representation of the way in which these people make war against the infidels.

Description of Bal?ya--Arrival on the banks of the Dhioliba -- Courouassa -- Sambarala -- Bour?, a mountainous country, rich in gold -- Crossing the Dhioliba -- The river Yendan -- Kankan -- Description of the town -- The market -- Gold of Bour? -- A religious festival -- Ordeal of fire -- Critical situation of the traveller -- Diseases of the country.

The soil of Bal?ya is an argillaceous sand, compact, but extremely fertile, producing all the necessaries of life in abundance. It is bounded on the west by the Fouta; on the south by Sangaran, through which runs the Dhioliba; on the east by the little country of Amana; and on the north by forests. All the villages in this part are surrounded with a double wall of mud, surmounted by battlements. These walls are from ten to twelve feet high. The villages contain each from a hundred to a hundred and twenty-five huts, made of straw.

The inhabitants of Bal?ya were subjected to the laws of the Prophet by the Foulahs, since which they annually present some cattle to the almamy of the Fouta. They are warriors and husbandmen, and have abundance of the necessaries of life, which they obtain by the cultivation of the earth, while their cattle supply them with butter and milk. They manufacture white cloth, which they exchange with their neighbours for salt. Earthen-ware is made in almost every village. The people of Bal?ya are Dhialonk?s. Though Mahometans, they are, by no means, so zealous as the Foulahs, and drink in private a sort of beer made of millet and honey. Lamfia told me that formerly they possessed Fouta-Dhialon. The women are lively, pretty, and coquettish, and bestow much attention on dressing their hair, which is arranged in two tufts, one on each side of the head: many have four tufts. They ornament their heads with coloured glass beads, tastefully disposed; they wear necklaces of small black glass beads, interspersed with a few gilt glass ornaments. The necklaces, which are about three inches broad, encircle the neck like a cravat. The head-dress of these women would be becoming, if their hair was not covered with a layer of butter, with which they also grease their bodies: it renders their skin glossy, but gives them an unpleasant smell. Most of the females have no other dress than a piece of cloth, five feet long and two wide, which they fasten round their waists. On holidays they throw another piece of cloth over their shoulders, and cover their bosoms; they also wear sandals. This is nearly the general costume of the women of Negroland. Their dispositions are gentle and cheerful; their colour is very black; their features handsome, with curly hair, noses slightly aquiline, thin lips, and large eyes. They do all the household work, and are obedient to their husbands.

On the 11th of June, after taking leave of the chiefs to whom I presented three leaves of tobacco, which seemed to please him, we proceeded in a S. E. direction. The saracolet merchants, who had asses to carry their merchandise, went on first, having to pass several streams which would retard their progress. The heat was excessive, and a storm came on. The atmosphere was heavy and obscured by clouds. I was attacked with a fever on the journey, and, notwithstanding the heat, I had shivering fits, from which I suffered greatly. After crossing the streams, where the water was knee-deep, we overtook the saracolets. They had bargained with some Mandingoes to carry a part of their baggage, for they were heavily laden. I observed that the country sloped towards the east. We continued in the same direction. The eldest saracolet, having traced some Arabic characters on the ground, and muttered some prayers, assured us that we might pursue our journey without apprehension, as no misfortune would happen to us. The country is a little wooded. The n?d? and the c? grow here in abundance. Our road was gravelly. About two in the afternoon we arrived at Courouassa, a village of Amana, situated on the left bank of the Dhioliba. Shortly before our arrival a storm arose. My umbrella and some trees, beneath which we sought shelter, protected me a little. We had travelled fourteen miles in a S. E. direction, and were all much fatigued. Lamfia took me to lodge with the chief, who gave us a kind reception. He provided us with a good hut, and offered us a hide to sleep upon. I bought a fowl for two charges of gunpowder, and we had it cooked for supper. The fever had left me, and I now suffered only from a severe head-ache. I hastened to take a view of the Dhioliba, which had so long been the object of my curiosity. I observed that it flowed from S. W. 1/4 S. proceeding slowly to the E. N. E. for the distance of some miles, and then turns due east. A little to the north of the village I saw a sand-bank lying very near the left shore of the river. The channel for canoes is near the right bank. I seated myself for a moment to contemplate this mysterious river, respecting which the learned of Europe are so anxious to gain information.

On the left bank, and pretty near the northern part of the village, there are hills between one hundred and fifty and two hundred feet high, covered with young trees. The soil appeared to be red, and of the same kind as that of Sierra-Leone. Some smiths have established themselves near these hills: they smelt and work up the iron which in found there in great quantities. These hills extend in a N. E. direction. There are some also on the right bank, but they are not so high. The air became cool, and I returned to my hut. During the night it rained a great deal.

We remained at Courouassa during the 12th. A storm came on accompanied by an east wind, which occasioned a suffocating heat. The rain poured in torrents. When it ceased I again visited the banks of the river. I watched its current, which flowed at the rate of about two miles and a half or three miles an hour. At this period it was about nine feet deep. This I calculated by the long pole which the boatmen used to push along the canoes. In this part it appeared as broad as the Senegal at Podor. The right bank is lower than the left, on which the village is situated at an elevation of nearly a twentieth part of a mile above the water. I observed in the village many large bamboos, under the shade of which the old men assemble and spend part of the day in conversation. These people use much snuff; but they do not take it as we do in Europe, with the fingers; some use a small brush, and others a little iron spoon like an ear-pick. The negroes told me that the river begins to overflow in July, and that then they can go three miles over the plain in canoes. A great quantity of rice is grown on this plan. The sand-bank which I had seen plainly on the preceding evening was now no longer visible.

Courouassa is a neat village, surrounded by a mud wall, from ten to twelve feet high and from eight to ten inches thick. It contains between four and five hundred inhabitants. I observed that thousands of swallows, of the same kind as those seen in Europe, had built their nests in this wall. They were collected in flocks upon the trees, and I concluded that they were preparing to depart.

Courouassa is entered by several low and narrow openings which are closed by a thick plank made of a single tree. The town is shaded by bombaces and boababs, and it is the principal of five small villages situated on the banks of the Dhioliba. This country is called Amana; the inhabitants are called Dhialonk?s, and are chiefly idolaters. They do not travel, but occupy themselves peaceably in the cultivation of their little fields, which are fertilised by the inundations of the river. They catch many fish with hooks, which they obtain from travellers coming from our settlements on the coast. They likewise fish with the fou?ne, an instrument consisting of three branches with darts having teeth like a saw. A large piece of wood forms the handle of this instrument, which the natives use with great address. I saw a species of fish with a number of small bones like the carp. The people dry and smoke this fish, and sell it to their neighbours and the traders who pass through their country.

Bour? is situated at the distance of a five days' passage down the river, in a canoe. The voyage is thus divided: from Courouassa to Cabarala one day; from Cabarala to Balatou one day; from Balatou to the village of Dhioliba one day; from Dhioliba to Boun-Bouriman, one day; from Boun-Bouriman to Bour?, proceeding a little way up the Tankisso, one day.

Bour? is a mountainous country, containing a number of rich gold mines, according to the account given to me by the natives. I shall speak of it more at length in the proper place. I went, accompanied by my guide, to pay a visit to the chief, who I was told, was a great warrior and dreaded by his neighbours. We found him alone in his hut employed in fastening a point to an arrow. A number of bows, arrows, and quivers, were hung up in various parts of the hut. He asked us to sit down on a bullock's hide, and Lamfia conversed with him. The conversation turned on me. He promised that we should cross the river next day. Travellers are rowed across by his slaves. He levies duties which are paid in European merchandise, such as gunpowder, tobacco, knives, scissors, &c. He also receives salt in payment of these duties, which render him tolerably rich. He told me that, out of respect to my rank of sherif, he would allow me to pass duty free. The chief was a man about fifty years of age, five feet and some inches high. His countenance was mild, nay even pleasing.

On the 13th of June, we crossed the river in canoes, twenty-five feet long, three wide, and one deep. A great number of people were going across, and they were all disputing, some about the fare that was demanded, others about who should go first. They all talked at once and made a most terrible uproar. The saracolets had a great deal of trouble in getting their asses on board the canoes, and the parties who had crossed fired muskets in token of rejoicing, which augmented the tumult created by the disputes of the negroes. I was obliged to remain exposed to the sun the whole morning; for the banks of the river are very open. Along the left bank but one tree was visible. This was a large bombax, under which so many people had crowded for shade that I could not find room. I saw a number of women and girls bathing in the river. They were quite naked, but they seemed to care very little about the presence of the men. Having finished their ablutions, they returned to the village, with pagnes round their waists and calabashes on their heads. There were only four canoes for conveying between two hundred and fifty and three hundred persons, besides luggage. We were not all landed on the right bank until near eleven o'clock. The excessive heat had brought on me a severe head-ache accompanied with fever. We proceeded onwards to the S. E. over good land, leaving behind us a few merchants who bad not yet crossed the river. I was so ill that I experienced great difficulty in walking. The heat was intense, and I opened my umbrella to shelter me from the scorching rays of the sun; but some of my travelling companions advised me to shut it on approaching the villages, lest, as they said, it should excite the cupidity of the Kafirs . We proceeded eastward. The road was flooded, and in several places the water was ancle-deep. We passed Sambarala, a village situated on the bank of the river and surrounded by n?d?s and c?s. We next pursued our course over a sandy soil, clothed with beautiful vegetation, among which I observed tamarind-trees. About three o'clock we arrived at Counancodo, where I saw some fine orange-trees. We had travelled nine miles in the course of the day.

Our host sent us a good supper of rice, which I added to my fowl. All the evening, and indeed till night was pretty well advanced, the young negroes and negresses amused themselves by dancing to the sound of the tomtom. Their dancing was more decorous than that of the Wolof negroes in the neighbourhood of the Senegal.

On the 14th of June, at seven in the morning, our caravan proceeded onward in the direction of E. S. E. After travelling three miles, we passed near the river, and advanced six miles eastward. We then turned half a mile to the north, to reach the village of Fessadougou, where we halted about noon. This village, which contains a population of about three or four hundred, is situated on the bank of a river, about half the width of the Dhioliba at Courouassa. I at first conjectured that it was a branch of that river; but I observed that the direction of its current, which flowed at the rate of about three miles and a half an hour, was from south to north. The Mandingoes informed me that it falls into the Dhioliba, not far from this place. The river is called the Yendan; its banks are for the most part low and open, but, about six miles from the village, there are, on both sides, some little hills. Fessadougou is a part of the Sangaran.

On the 15th of June, after paying our reckoning in a little tobacco and salt, as we had done all along the road from Cambaya, we crossed the river in canoes. It was near ten o'clock when we reached the right bank. We then proceeded four miles to the S. E., over a gravelly soil. I had not yet got rid of the fever, but I had enjoyed a little rest during the night.

The heat was excessive, and my guide insisted on my using my umbrella to shade me from the scorching rays of the sun: he himself took the precaution of letting it down, whenever we approached any inhabited place. It was near half-past eleven when we halted at Farancou-Manbata, a village containing between three and four hundred inhabitants. Our road, next day, lay through a tract of country, in which we should have to travel a considerable distance without coming to any villages. A storm arose soon after we entered Farancou-Manbata, and it rained heavily. At seven, on the morning of the 15th of June, we resumed our journey, travelling twenty-two miles in the same direction, and crossing several little streams. The surface of the ground was covered with red stones and gravel. The country was generally level, but some hills were visible to the east and west.

Share on: WhatsApp @Hash Facebook Tweet