Read Ebook: To Panama and back by Byford Henry T Henry Turman

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New Orleans, ten days previously, but had not had a convincing, conscience-quieting, fresh-water, hot bath; only cold salt ones. Perspiration and dust, rain and disease had all been at me and about me. In the streets and in the barber shop I had seen skin diseases and hairless patches on heads, faces and necks, and felt sure that, like tobacco smoke , some of the dust, or germs from diseased individuals, must have been wafted about me and into my hair, clothes and skin although I could not see them. There was only one way out of the difficulty and that was by means of baths, frequent, and uncompromising, soapy and scrubby. Plenty of soap and water outside, and alcohol and pop inside, seemed to be the only way to live out one's shortened life in Panama.

Not having a magic ring or an oriental lamp to rub, I scratched my head while I wished for a bath-tub--and immediately found a small wash-basin. I wished for fresh water, and found a large pitcherful. I wished for a portable shower bath, and found my hands, two of them. I preferred a pitcherful of cold fresh water and a wash-basin to a bath-tub full of cold brine. I also reflected that a cold sponge bath with plenty of soap could be made more cleansing than a shower or tub bath with cold water, because the sponge bath could be kept up indefinitely, or until one was clean; whereas the cold shower or tub bath was a chilling affair, and must necessarily be of brief duration and not very soapy. In order not to injure the ceiling of the room below, I spread newspapers on the floor before the washstand, poured the washbowl two thirds full of water and stood for a moment shivering before it, for the cool night air still lingered in the room. It was a delightful sensation to feel chilly within eight degrees of the equator and only a few hours after the all-day boiling spell of the day before.

I rapidly washed my face, neck and shoulders, then wet my head and lathered it thoroughly with soap. In order to get the soap and dirt all out of my hair without irritating or infecting my eyes, I stood on my head in the washbasin and soaked and washed out the soap. I then changed water, and stood my head and neck and shoulders up side down again in the basin to rinse them. After wiping them I began to feel warm and in a mood for more work. I soaped my left chest and arm, then put my left elbow in the bath-tub, leaned my body over it and splashed and soaked off the soap, using my hand as a movable shower bath. I then did the same to the other side. Not being a woman, I had neither washrag nor powder rag to wash and dry myself, but had two heavy bath towels. The towel was a great success as a washrag in holding water and soaking off the soap; the ordinary little feminine washrag is a miserable makeshift and does not deserve the favor it enjoys. After a long period of cold splashing with my washrag and another of dry scrubbing with my powder rag, I transferred my bath-tub to the floor and stood in it right side up, and was able to complete the bath to my joy and satisfaction with the bowl and water that had originally been intended for face and hands only. As a schoolboy I had been an amateur contortionist, and was not disabled like most of my friends by the fear of bursting a bloodvessel or straining my heart. But what pleased me most of all was that I had had an hour of active exercise, and felt strengthened and refreshed by it. I had found an antidote to the sun's deadly rays, a life-saving remedy. After getting my light tropical clothes on, I felt as if I wanted something more than the cup-of-coffee-and-half-a-roll-early-breakfast of the natives, and hurried down to the dining-room.

Early breakfast, called "coffee," was served from six to eight o'clock on a long table in a small dining-room. Near each end of the table were a dish of oranges and a large platter upon which were piled round water rolls, similar to our round Vienna rolls. Two waiters stood at a sideboard, each with a long-handled tin pot of coffee in one hand and a corresponding pot of hot, unskimmed, fresh milk in the other, ready to serve a mixture of strong coffee and hot milk in any proportion asked for.

"Where is that head waiter? Why doesn't he bring my eggs?"

The two waiters immediately rushed out of the room and back, and tried to say in broken English that the head waiter was not there. Since nothing but coffee, rolls and oranges belonged to the first breakfast, it was necessary to order the eggs and pay extra for them, and if one came down pretty early , there was apt to be some delay in getting them. Hot fires and head waiters were not usually going at so early an hour.

The old man glared at the waiters fiercely and they stared at him stupidly, not daring to drop their eyes. After a few moments he again broke out:

"Hasn't that head waiter been found yet? Where is the second head waiter--or the third head waiter? Telegraph to Spain for a live one. This is great service for eight dollars a day. Not even anything to eat when you pay extra for it. If you want an egg you've got to fight for it--nothing short of a revolution will make a hen lay, or an egg cook in this country."

"These waiters are native Panamanians and do not understand United States, and how to wait on Americans."

"I'll speak to them in Spanish. Perhaps it will start them up," I said. So I called to one of them in a loud voice:

The waiter seemed much relieved by this information and said in Spanish that waiters had to be smart men, but travelers who paid for the privilege, had the right to be fools; and went out smiling with polite rage. A moment later the eggs were brought in and the two old gentlemen were soon busy and better natured. The milder one who had allowed the other to do the talking said to me:

"I see that your Spanish did some good."

"Yes," chimed in the fiery one, "when you talk to a horse you must talk horse."

The Central American coffee is not only made quite strong, but it has a bitter, resinous taste which is developed by roasting it until burnt, and then by boiling it. At first I did not relish it, but after learning to dilute it with an equal quantity of the hot, unskimmed milk, I became very fond of it. Its heavy flavor seemed to give it something of the taste of food as well as being a drink.

For Doctors Only

Barber Shops and Disease--Chance for a Trust and a Public Benefaction--Tropical Hotel Clerk from Canada--A Visit to the Hospital at Anc?n--Beautiful Location--Housekeeping under Difficulties--Genial and Gentlemanly Doctors--The Buildings Left by the French--Details--Prevalence of Malaria--Drinking Water--Why the People of Panama Ought to be Dead--The Spoiled Child--Why the Eleven O'clock Breakfast is Enjoyable at Anc?n--A Specimen Hotel Breakfast.

Doctor Echeverr?a did not appear for a half hour after I had finished my coffee and rolls. While waiting for him I had my hair trimmed, and experienced the pleasure of sitting in the chair next to a dirty-looking man with a skin disease which had caused his hair to fall out in patches, and which caused mine to stand up all over, as the barber's assistant began using comb and shears on him and making the hair and dust fly in my direction. If this man had come an hour earlier he might, without my knowledge, have been shorn on the same chair that I occupied, and with the same comb, scissors and unwashed hands that were used on my head. I felt like resolving never to go into a barber shop again, but knew that I could not live up to the resolution. I would have to step up and take my share of dirt and microbes and have them rubbed in at least once a month or two, for I could not trim my own hair. I could not help repeating that good old saying, "God made Barbarians and seeing that they were no good, called them Barbers."

The proprietor of the shop was a gentle old German, too good natured and old to learn the technic or meaning of cleanliness. He had cut hair and beards in Germany, the United States and Cuba, and knew all about his business except cleanliness. Cleanliness in barbers is like biblical honesty in business. While having my hair trimmed and my scalp infected by the old fellow, I asked him if he did a better business in Panama than he had done in the United States. He said:

"Ogh, yes. In the Unidet States I did a goot pisness, yet not such a pig pisness ass here. Dere I wass only a boor barbeer, but here I make much money and am a pig man."--He was.

The want of cleanliness of the barbers, and the custom of using public combs and brushes at hotels, clubs and entertainments accounts for nine tenths of the baldness in the world. Barbers' brushes bear the germs of baldness and badness from scalp to scalp, and their infected fingers rub it in. One should always go home and wash his head with soap and water, or with alcohol, as soon as possible after a barber has had his comb and black-bristled brush on it. One should also furnish his own comb and brush, razor and mug, and insist that the barber wash his hands thoroughly before touching them. Under no circumstances should he be allowed to give the head a "dry rub."

How a cleanly man can go and await his turn in a barber shop to be shaved two or three times weekly by dirty hands, and be combed by dirty combs and brushes, and have his head dry-rubbed by hands that have been dry-rubbing other heads without being washed, when he can do the same himself at home with clean hands and implements and without waste of time, is almost incomprehensible. To gaze into a barber shop is bad enough. Flashy mirrors and massive furniture cannot compensate for dirty methods. Barbers dare not use brushes with white bristles, for they would look frightful before night. They would have to be washed.

The hotel clerk was a polyglot French Canadian who, like the barber, the barber's assistant and a large proportion of the other trained employees about town, had traveled considerably before coming to Panama, and would probably travel again in search of more congenial climes and more remunerative work as soon as rivals should come and conditions improve. He spoke French well and Spanish and English indifferently, and was willing to talk to any one until some one else claimed his attention. He fitted in his place very nicely, for he possessed that complicated lack of system that forms an essential part of tropical hotel management. He was unfailingly obliging and affably irritable, as forgetful and unreliable men are apt to be. In giving him orders, it was always well to wait and see them carried out. If one wanted anything sent to one's room, or brought down, it was well to wait until the gong sounded, the boy called down, the clerk called up, and the message was correctly delivered and intelligently understood; otherwise it was liable to be given wrong, be misunderstood or be forgotten. When time hung heavily on one's hands this supervision of the clerk and bell boy served to help the hot half hours move on.

Doctor Echeverr?a appeared at last, full of half a roll and an orange and ready for the morning's work. He had sent his daily cablegram to his wife before taking coffee, but had not yet heard from her. As he was the official head of medical affairs at Lim?n, he wished to be prompt in paying his respects to the chief sanitary officer of the Canal Zone, Dr. Wm. G. Gorgas, and the chief of the Marine Hospital service, Dr. H. R. M. Carter, and the chief of the Quarantine department, Maj. L. A. LaGarde. He could not rest until he had done his duty as a public health officer, a brother physician and a courteous gentleman. He did not realize that the social and ceremonial conscience of the Anglo-American race was not as sensitive as that of the Latin-American. While these chiefs would have been glad to see him, they were bound up in their work and would not have taken notice of a little delay on his part. So we drove to Anc?n Hill, which was a short distance beyond the railroad station, and arrived there about nine o'clock. Leaving the cab we slowly walked up the beautiful avenue that led along the hillside through the grounds.

The location of the hospital on the slope of Anc?n Hill was certainly well chosen, for the ground was high and the view unobstructed. The driveway was shaded by palm trees and bordered with well-kept, sloping lawns upon which neat-looking frame houses were scattered. It seemed to me almost preferable to be sick up there than well in the dingy, dusty, sun-baked city below. The medical officers certainly had the choice place of residence on the isthmus, for here were fresh breezes, clean, well-drained grounds, quiet surroundings and a charming outlook upon semi-mountainous, tropical scenery. The Tivoli has since been built here and its construction must certainly have given the "black eye" to Gran Hotel Centr?l. But to those who wish to know what Panama really is Gran Centr?l is the place. Those who go to Tivoli read guide books and forget; those who go to Gran Centr?l need no guide books, and never forget.

We did not find any of the chiefs at their homes on the hillside; they were down town at their offices in the government building in Plaza Centr?l, from which we had started. We had gone from them instead of to them. These men get up at daybreak, take a cup of coffee, and presumably half a roll, and go down to their offices and transact a good day's office work by eleven o'clock. Then they drive back home, eat a hearty breakfast and remain in their garden of paradise with their families until the midday heat begins to be tempered by the regular afternoon breeze, when they go to work again.

But we had a pleasant chat with Mrs. LaGarde, the wife of Doctor LaGarde. She gave us all sorts of information from a woman's standpoint, and proved to us that although the exteriors were beautiful and perhaps enjoyable at Anc?n, and the hospital a charming place to get sick and get well in, the comforts of housekeeping and living constituted, according to United States habits and standards, a sort of seamy side of life for these hard-working semi-exiles. The houses had not the places to put things in, nor the conveniences for cooking and other details of housekeeping that are considered essential in the North. Closet room is a Yankee luxury. Clothes would not dry except in the sun and wind, and if put away would get wet again. Insects were annoying and screens had not yet been provided. Alterations about the house had to be made, and makeshifts adopted. There was neither running water nor drainage. But Mrs. LaGarde was cheerful and even breezy in her talk, just as if she not only enjoyed giving the information but also overcoming the difficulties. With the assistance of the United States she has, I believe, overcome some of them since.

Doctor Carter's son hunted up the young resident doctors. They were engaged peeping into microscopes, but they cheerfully gave up the private matinee they were having over their germs and, after having given us a peep at malarial high life, showed us through the hospital buildings. We found Mr. Carter and the young doctors exceedingly painstaking and courteous, and we afterward also found Doctor Gorgas, Doctor Carter and Doctor LaGarde even more so. A more genial and gentlemanly set of men in a quiet American way I have scarcely met. They seemed to have become imbued with the spirit of Spanish courtesy without having lost their American frankness and sincerity, and bore their great and unusual responsibilities with cheerfulness and modesty.

There were about twenty hospital wards, in separated one-story frame buildings, arranged in three curved tiers on the beautifully terraced slope of the hill. In fact, the ornamental grounds were so large and elaborate that the expense of keeping them up was quite an item. But the French had plenty of money, while they had it, and spent it artistically and generously, while they spent it. And there is no doubt but they built well, since the majority of the houses were found in a good state of preservation, and have been repaired at small expense.

Anc?n Hospital had at the time less than a hundred patients, two thirds of whom were negroes, and over half of whom were employees of the canal commission. To be laid up in those clean, well-kept wards and be waited upon by those tidy, cheerful nurses must have been a great luxury to the poor black devils. To die there would be enjoying themselves to death, no matter where they finally went to.

Superficial swamps all along the Zone were being drained or filled, in hopes of exterminating the malaria breeding mosquitoes. About the Anc?n hospital, malaria had already practically disappeared. The extent of malaria in the Canal Zone had been demonstrated by blood analyses. At Bohio the blood of forty-four school children had been examined and the malarial organism found in twenty-nine cases. After they had taken twelve grains of quinine daily for ten days the organism was only found in five. It was also found that seventy per cent. of the 12,000 inhabitants of twelve villages along the Zone had the malarial organism in the blood. This is largely the cause of the prevalent anemia.

Colonel Gorgas had been appointed health officer of the city of Panama and of Col?n by the Panama government, and health departments were being organized in both cities. A systematic cleaning of dirty places and a rigid enforcement of modern sanitary laws and regulations had already been begun. The Zone commission was at work constructing the new reservoir, about twelve miles from the canal, out of which Panama and the whole Zone have since been supplied with healthy water. The people of Panama were using rain-water collected in cisterns for drinking and washing. In the rainy season the streets flowed with it and the cisterns overflowed; but in the dry season many of the reservoirs were empty, and there was practically a water famine up to the time of my visit. Those who could afford it, drank imported waters, such as White Rock, Apollinaris, Vichy, etc.

Why the people of Panama are not all dead long ago is past finding out. The animal kingdom from the mosquito up has preyed upon them, and the elements have conspired against them, drenching them for six months of the year and burning them and devitalizing them during the other six. They have also conspired against themselves, having had a civil war on an average of almost once a year. The country has been ravaged by adventurers and pirates in past centuries and beggared by Colombia in the present one. They have scarcely any developed resources. But now they have run under the wing of the United States, who will kill the mosquitoes for them, provide hospitals to take them in out of the sun and rain, make fresh ice-water to keep them cool, arbitrate for them to keep their peace, build a canal for them to increase their business, and will keep out the foreign foe when they are threatened. If such a sudden change from prostration to prosperity does not spoil the child then it deserves all it gets, and is fit to survive. The French spoiled the Panamanians somewhat, and made them dependent and parasitic, but it is to be hoped that our influence will be to encourage the development and financial independence of the country.

We were cordially invited to remain at Anc?n and breakfast with the officers and their families at eleven o'clock. The breakfast seemed to be looked forward to with great pleasure and was made quite a social event by them. And I do not wonder that they enjoyed it after doing a good day's work while fasting. Their aim was never to put off until after breakfast what could be done before. They must have been ravenous by eleven o'clock. But as our blood was heated and our collars wilting, we thought it better to get back to the hotel before the day became hotter.

After our customary appetizer, to keep away Doctor Echeverr?a's melancholy and fulfill my vow to do as the Panamanians did, we went to our rooms and refreshed ourselves with cold water and fresh linen , and were prepared to appreciate a substantial breakfast. They brought us first a large dish of tiny clams cooked in their shells. These varied from the size of a small split pea to that of a lima bean, and were as finely flavored and delicious as their delicate physique indicated. We then had some very hot shirred eggs and made them hotter with a little Worcestershire sauce, which gave them a fine, tropical flavor. Then came Italian spaghetti daintily served, a medium-tough nicely cooked beefsteak, some juicy pineapple, too sweet to bear any sugar, and a small cup of deliciously bitter coffee which I subdued by the addition of a little evaporated cream.

I was glad that I had not spoiled my breakfast by eating eggs at eight o'clock, for I was very hungry when we sat down to it, and enjoyed it so much that I think it really must have been good.

A Siesta and Such

Preparations for a Panama Siesta--Barricading the Door--Interruption--Waiting for the End--Obliged to Get up--Opening the Box of Water--A Fatal Tip--An Imitation College Yell--Its Effectiveness--Horseback Riding--The High-toned Boarding Stable--Effect of Work upon Men and Animals in the Tropics--The Tramp and the Rich Man--Shopping--Tickets for the Bull-fight--Cigaret Smoking and the Habit--The Dusky Maiden--No Fool like an Old Fool--Biased Opinions--The War-cry--Town Gossip--A prescription for a Bottle of Beer--After-dinner Amusements--Ubi Tres Medici--Temperance of the Doctors--Mosquitoes and Poetry--The Night Watchman.

It was about noon when we finished our Spanish breakfast, and we agreed to take a siesta and meet again at half-past three. First, however, we stepped into a provision store in the next building and bought a case of fifty bottles of mineral water for use in our rooms. My American ancestors had drunk water for so many years that I had inherited the habit, and could not give it up, as many foreigners do, and we did not wish to be obliged to go to the bar every time we wanted a drink of water, for the bar-tender invariably put something in it.

After a long time the cathedral clock struck two and I felt thankful that the siesta was half over. After a still longer time I began to think that the middle-aged clock had run down. But it had not, for it finally struck half past. After another long interval of weary waiting, I began to grow sleepy again, when the clock struck three, and my siesta ended just when it was going to begin. A faint breeze had begun to stir, and I had forgiven the bell boy and could have taken a peaceful nap, but had to keep my appointment with Doctor Echeverr?a. Encouraged by the faint breeze, I hoped, by moving about slowly and systematizing the work, to be able to slip into my clothes without saturating them with perspiration.

I became thirsty and wanted the bell boy to bring a hammer and open the box of mineral water. But there was no way of calling him, not even a gas pipe to pound on. So I put on my overcoat, stole across the hall, through the empty room opposite and found him lounging on the veranda ready to halloa whenever the gong sounded. I gave him my message, returned to my room and waited, pitying the poor Spanish people for not knowing better than to select for the siesta the only two hours in the day during which it is impossible to sleep.

Finally I became so habituated to answering the knocking on the door with my imitation college yell that I gave it one day when Doctor Echeverr?a knocked, and thus frightened him away. He asked me afterward with whom I was having words--he had never heard one of our college yells. So I told him the whole story, and asked him the best course to pursue with mestizo boys and musty old maids. He told me to have faith, hope and charity, but most of all hope--to order them around a great deal in order to show that I expected service and was going to pay for it, but not to fee them until the day of my departure. We followed out this plan with our table waiter and obtained good service. As in doing everything else, a man who gives tips should learn how.

When at last my toilet was finished I went down to the office with a good color and a moist skin. Doctor Echeverr?a and Se?or McGill had been awaiting me for some time, and thought that I must have slept long and well during my siesta.

Se?or McGill was fond of horses, in accordance with the prevalent fashion among Panama bachelors who, in lieu of taking a wife, were in the habit of taking a horseback ride every afternoon. And the ladies smiled upon them, apparently in approval. After we had been to the cable office to send the doctor's cablegram to his wife at San Jos?, the se?or took us to the highest-toned boarding stable in town, where were kept eight so-called fine horses. He admired them greatly and pointed out one or two good qualities in two or three of them. But I picked out three or four bad points in five or six of them, and told him that, as a bachelor and lover of horses, he should neither accept a horse nor a wife without asking some one with experience to point out their bad qualities, since good qualities could be overcome, but bad ones never. The fine horses were imported, the best and largest one from Brazil; yet even that one, although of heavy Percheron shape, was rather small and scrubby, a work horse but not big enough to work. The tropics may be a good place for wild animals who take their exercise by night, and domestic animals who do not take any; but animals and men who habitually do active hard work, develop poorly and degenerate rapidly. If a man or an animal, however, does not and will not work, the tropics are the place for him. An amount of active work that is necessary to keep a man well and in working order in Chicago would soon kill a white man in Panama, while an amount of inactivity that would make a man sick in Chicago does him good there.

Tramps should go to Panama and by lying fallow renew the exhausted and dissipated physical stock of their ancestry. There they can feast on the plentiful bananas, pineapples, mangoes, papayas and breadfruit, take siestas under inviting palm trees, and lodge cheaply under wayside wagons, or in dried mudholes, according to the season. They need not toil, neither need they spin, yet not Solomon with all his wives to keep his house from him ever took the comfort they can take. Never to be cold or hungry, nor to be reproached for improvidence, nor be brought to want for not working, nor to be dependent upon saloons and jails to keep from starving and freezing; such is the paradise awaiting them on the isthmus.

Only the rich man can not take advantage of the conditions in Panama. The waiters are not well enough trained, the first breakfast is too skimpy, extras are too difficult to procure, furniture is too uncomfortable, perspiration too wet, etc. The rich man starves, tires out, gets sick and has to return to the North, with its steam-heated houses and complex cuisine, to save his life and live in comfort--if the rich ever do live in comfort. Some think they do, but they don't--although they might easily learn how from their servants.

We shopped a little, buying Porto Rican straw hats, duck trousers and other thin clothes, and found the prices about the same as those in the United States for similar articles of good quality, but much cheaper than in Costa Rica. Although the tickets were not yet on sale, we engaged seats for the bull-fight that was to take place Sunday, January 1st. I had never seen a bull-fight, although I often had wished to. I did not hanker after the so-called entertainment, but as a student of the Spanish people and of their literature I considered it a ceremony of educational and emotional value. We had intended visiting some of the Chinese silk and curio stores, but the general custom of closing at about five o'clock made it necessary to postpone this part of it. As we were four or five blocks from home, my companions insisted upon taking a cab to the hotel. I preferred walking, which was better for the health, but being in Panama had to do as the Panamanians did. The five-minute ride, however, cooled us off and made us feel better, showing that the end justified the means.

During our walk and ride Se?or McGill kept lighting cigarets and would have kept us doing the same if we had not refused. Doctor Echeverr?a did not smoke and I only smoked cigars. The se?or was, however, very moderate for a South American, for he only smoked about a dozen cigarets during the afternoon. One of our delegates, a physician from San Salvador, said that he smoked about seventy-five a day, and that many of his acquaintances did likewise. It serves to keep men occupied, just as embroidering and knitting serve to keep women occupied. As the tobacco in the Central and South American cigaret is very black and much stronger than in those made in the United States, I should say that seventy-five of the former would equal about a hundred and fifty of the latter in its effect upon the nerves. Evolution can go no farther. Such consummate cigaret fiends are however not common in the United States. Yet the habit seems to influence men badly whether they smoke strong or weak tobacco. The practice of smoking often, seems to grow on them until finally they want to light a cigaret every time they meet a friend or have a moment of leisure. They light one every time they sit down, again when they get up, and every time they hear news or wish to impart news to others. One can keep tab on their feelings and impressions and intentions by watching their cigaret play. The habit leads them to give way to their impulses and inclinations without resistance, and they finally get to smoking automatically, without thinking about it and without really enjoying it. They smoke with the same kind of nervous satisfaction that Napoleon walked the floor when he dictated correspondence, and with correspondingly direful results. It affects themselves and their friends, however, instead of their foes, for it keeps them smelling worse than a groom. The habitual cigaret smoker habitually smells. There is only one worse habit, and that is to go about publicly sucking an old pipe. This hurts every one within sight.

Se?or McGill left us at the hotel, and the doctor and I went to our rooms to replace wilted linen. I had just removed my coat and collar, and was pulling my outer shirt over my head when the dusky maiden of many seasons came in to fix my room. I got a glimpse of her in time, and pulled the garment down with a jerk and cried, "Get out! Scat! Don't you know better than to frighten a man to death in this way?" I hadn't time to compose anything but plain English.

She merely smiled in a matter-of-fact way as if to say, "Don't mention it. I'll excuse it this time." Tropical women seem to know that men have no modesty.

Finally I got the combination and shouted:

The formula was effective, for she stared at me with an expression of petticoat dignity and pop-eyed wonder which said plainer than words, "There is no fool like an old fool," and walked out. She must have thought that changing garments was a public ceremony, like snoring and seasickness. It was the last time I was caught with my door unlocked.

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