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INTRODUCTION

PAGE

Summary of recent events--Lord Curzon appointed Viceroy, 1898--The currency--Calcutta Municipality--Famine of 1900--Punjab Land Alienation Act--Commission on Expenditure--Lord Kitchener as Commander-in-Chief--Delhi Durbar--Reduction of Salt Tax--Official Secrets Act--Universities Act--Alleged exclusion of Indians from office--National Congress in Bombay, 1904--Lord Curzon's Convocation Speech--Partition of Bengal, October 16, 1905--Swadeshi movement--Lord Curzon's resignation--Lord Minto appointed Viceroy--Mr. John Morley appointed Secretary of State for India--Trouble in Eastern Bengal--Sir Bampfylde Fuller resigns--"Coronation" of Mr. Banerjea--Disturbances in Eastern Bengal and the Punjab--Prosecution of Indian papers--Riot at Rawal Pindi--Arrest of six lawyers--Deportation of Lajpat Rai and Ajit Singh--Public Meetings Ordinance--The Risley Circular--Appointment of two Indians to Indian Council--Proposed scheme of Reforms--Opium Agreement with China--Anglo-Russian Agreement--Seditious Meetings Act--Mr. Morley's speech at Arbroath--Cases of supposed failure of justice--Mr. Dadabhai Naoroji retires to India 1

A SERVANT OF INDIA

Festival of Diwali at Poona--The plague--Mr. Gokhale's Society of "Servants of India"--His past history--Member of the Viceroy's Legislative Council--Rules of the Society--Social and political aims--The British connection--Indians and Anglo-Indians--Criticism of proposed reforms--Mr. Gokhale's suggestions--A Society dinner 31

RATS AND MEN

Plague and rats--Previous attempts to check plague--The rat-flea--War on rats--Plague mortality--A plague hospital--Symptoms of plague--Course of the sickness--Descriptions of former plagues--Inoculation--A Government inoculator 48

THE EXTREMIST

The custom of garlanding--The fortress of Singarh--Mr. Tilak--Religion and scholarship--Theory of the Vedas--His past history--Breach at Nagpur--His statement of his party's aims and methods--"Self-reliance, not mendicancy"--The boycott--Growth of Indian unity--Quotations from Mr. Tilak's speeches--His arrest and sentence in 1908 62

THE RYOT'S BURDEN

Mr. Junshi on family worship--His passion for statistics--"Statistical abstract"--Finance and population--Expenditure on Army, Education, and official Christianity--The Land Settlement--Its origin and proportion--Is it tax or rent?--Lord Salisbury's opinion--How the amount is fixed--Mr. Vaughan Nash on the Settlement--The cultivator's income--How he clings to the land, even without profit--The money-lender and the Government--Collection of assessment--Ryots and zemindars--Permanent Settlement of Bengal--Suburbs of Poona--Character of the Ryot--Government as protector of the poor--Forest Department--Grazing and timber--Arms Act and wild beasts--The tiger as scarecrow--A village petition--A sacrifice to education 78

THE SOUTHERN CITY

The pride of Madras--Municipal labours--Decentralization Commission--A student of philosophy--The religion of the grave--The religion of healing--A temple of Vishnu--A family ceremony--Missionaries in Madras--The benefit of missions--Memory of good Governors--Sir Thomas Munro--Decline of Anglo-Indian manners--Causes of this--Distrust of British justice--Proposed separation of functions--Police--Drink question and revenue--Forms of Swadeshi 103

ON THE BEACH

Meeting on Madras sands--Release of Lajpat Rai and Ajit Singh--Song of "Bande Mataram"--Parody of Mr. Morley--Speeches--Audience--Absence of sedition--A Sanyasi's speech 125

THE FLOODS OF ORISSA

The country and government--Mountains, rivers, and plains--The great flood of 1907--Brown skeletons--Officials and figures--Settlement revision--Scene of flood and famine--Deposit of sand--Price of food--Chief sufferers--Village houses--Tax-collectors--Government action--Madhu Sudan Das--A call on an official--An official order--A Rajah's breakfast 134

"LORD OF THE WORLD"

Pilgrims at Puri--Shrine of Juggernath--Legend of the car--Possible origin of the god's fame--Benefit of equality--Brother and sister--Inequality in India--Its consequences on Indian and English manners--Possible growth of equality 152

THE DIVIDED LAND

Eastern Bengal--Its rivers--Its fertility--Ancient weaving industry--Modern hand-looms--Growth of jute--Variable prices--Jute or rice?--Settlement and zemindars--Boycott on cotton and salt--Lord Curzon and the Partition--Alternative scheme--Useless protests against Partition--The Fast of Commemoration--Part cause of unrest--So-called sentimental objections--Separation from Calcutta--Sorrows of landlords--Conjunction with Assam--Fears of separation from Calcutta High Court 160

SWADESHI AND THE VOLUNTEERS

Earlier forms of Swadeshi--The Swadeshi Oath--Effect of the movement--Encouraged by women--Various Swadeshi manufactures--Official encouragement--Congress resolutions--Boycott and picketing--The Volunteers--Origin in early Congresses--"Little Brothers of the Poor"--Protection to women pilgrims--Encouragement of athletes--Sufferers from boycott 178

THE NAWAB

Dacca--City anchorite--Nawab Salimulla--His history and position--Government loan--Support of Partition--Mohammedan against Hindu--Nawab's palace--His conversation--Views on cooking, jewellery, women, and politics--His happiness and confidence in Providence--Belief in English education--Influence over Mohammedans--Characteristics of Mohammedans--A letter to Layard--Favour to Mohammedans--Petty persecution of Hindus--Espionage--How far amusing, how far mean--Memories of Eastern Bengal 189

THREE BENGALIS AND THE PAPERS

A MAHRATTA SHOE

Journey to Surat--Dr. Rash Behari Ghose--Arrival at Surat--News of attempted assassination of Mr. Allen--Separate Extremist camp--Questions of the Calcutta resolutions--Attitude towards Bombay Moderates--Sir Pherozeshah Mehta--Lajpat Rai as peacemaker--Vain negotiations--First day's meeting of the Congress--Demonstration against Mr. Banerjea--Suspension of meeting--Alteration of Calcutta Resolutions discussed--Crux of the Boycott resolution--Further vain negotiations--Second day's meeting--Election of President--Mr. Tilak's action--Storm in the Congress--The Mahratta Shoe--Meeting breaks up in disorder--Free fight in the pavilion--Meeting of Convention of Moderates next day--Lajpat Rai on the platform--Meeting of Extremists--End of the Congress--Temporary unpopularity of the Moderate leaders 233

A CITY OF GOD

Scene by the river at Benares--A pilgrim of the Ganges--How a man's soul is absorbed into the universal soul--Whether the crowd desire such absorption--How indifference to this transitory life may be obtained--The benefit of symbolism even to the ignorant--The advantage of overcoming earthly desires--The example of Janaka--How far removed we of the common people are from it 263

THE PATIENT EARTH

Why an Indian official slept in the cold--Famine near Allahabad--Description of country--Wells and tanks--Sir John Hewett and relief--Sympathy of officials in famine--Test works--A state of famine--Wages and rations--Recruiting stations--Roads and dams as relief works--How dams are made--How the people lived--Sir John Hewett on numbers and loss--Financial Statement on the year's famine--General increase of prices--Probable increase of poverty in certain classes--Various reasons attributed--Comparison of peasants and town workpeople--Peasant incomes--Village labourers and artisans--Wages of Bombay mill-hands--Conditions of labour and housing--Village conditions--Ignorance and monotony--Burdens on the land 270

THE ARYA SAMAJ

A Vedic service--The Samaj at Lahore--Its founder Dayananda--Growth and objects--Two divisions--Lajpat Rai's connection with Samaj--His past history--Devotion to social and religious reform--Visit to England and America--Effect of Liberalism--Causes of neglect of India--He advocates self-reliance--Grievances of the Punjab--His deportation--Suspicion of Arya Samaj--Its avoidance of politics--The Gurukula near Hardwar--System of education--Isolated boyhood--Daily life--Study of Sanscrit--Method of teaching in India criticized--Cost of secondary education at boarding-schools 291

A FESTIVAL OF SPRING

The palace at Baroda--Vasantha--Maharajah and Resident--Honours to the Empire--Dust of flowers--Life of a Native Ruler--Administration of Baroda--Alleged errors--Measures of reform--Social reform--The Maharani 312

SUMMARY AND CONCLUSION

Our government of India--Danger of withdrawal to ourselves and India--Our probable successor if we withdrew--Signs of new spirit in India--Our contributions to new spirit--External causes of unrest--Suspicions of our justice and benevolence--How far inconsiderate--Plague, famine, and the drain of money--Where the Congress movement has failed--Our disregard of grievances has encouraged new methods--Extension of Swadeshi principle to all sides of life--The line of most resistance--To check "moral poverty"--But hopes of Moderate policy continue--Immediate reforms demanded--Change of heart essential but slow--Crisis calls for generous and definite reform--New spirit in India cannot be checked--Our own reputation for freedom at stake 320

TO FACE PAGE

A STREET IN POONA 32

MR. GOKHALE 34

A HEALTH CAMP 50

IN A VILLAGE 50

A VILLAGE STREET 58

A STREET IN PLAGUE 58

MR. TILAK 64

THE RYOT'S HOME 92

CARRYING LEAVES FOR FUEL 92

ON THE CAUSEWAY 96

A VILLAGE HEADMAN 96

A TEMPLE TANK, MADRAS 102

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