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Mr. Davidson's Notes, kept in the form of a Journal 1

Loose Memoranda found amongst Mr. Davidson's Papers 165

Letters from Captain Washington to Mr. Davidson 168

Mr. Davidson's Replies to Queries 175

Extracts from Mr. Davidson's Letters 176

Extracts from the Correspondence of Mr. Davidson, during his Residence in Morocco; with an Account of his further progress in the Desert 181

Account of Mr. Davidson's Death, extracted from the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society 202

History of Abou, extracted from the Journal of the Royal Geographical Society 208

Mr. Hay's Letter, referred to in the Notes, and Reply thereto 215

On Tuesday, Sept. 1, I went with Abou to see the Castle, where the officer on duty put some men through the manual and platoon exercise, and light infantry movements, much to the amusement of Abou, who was not less gratified with the feats of horsemanship exhibited by a company that performed the same evening at the theatre.

At one P.M., we were on board again for Gibraltar. Towards Seville there is a fine view of mountain scenery. But the country itself is in a wretched state, the natural consequence of the numerous revolutions it has been its fate to undergo, and where each province not only declares itself independent of the government, but of one another. How all this is to end, heaven only knows.

At ten P.M., we were called from the dinner-table by hearing that a brig had been capsized. Went on deck, and found the report to be too true. We sent our boats and took off some of the crew, and after crossing Trafalgar Bay, reached Gibraltar at a quarter past ten.

Friday, Sept. 11.--I went to the library, club, and court. All things seem to work well; but I much fear that I shall have some trouble about Abou: he has been made too much of; the Moors are all on the alert respecting him. I must beware of the French, too, for I foresee they will be intriguing against me. While some of our party are gone to visit the rock and the galleries, I am confined to my room on matters of business, which is not quite so pleasant a way of passing one's time, although my window overlooks the bay of Algesiras,--a view that would form not a bad subject for a panorama.

The weather is very hot, although the wind is easterly. The vessels of war sailed this morning for Cadiz. Spain is in a sad state. After dinner I went to St. Nicholas' Cave. It was lighted up with blue lights. The band, the company, the soldiers, all added to the natural grandeur of the scene. The more I see of this place, the more I am delighted with it.

Sunday, Sept. 13.--The air much cooler. Staid at home and read the psalms and lessons. Mr. Hay called, and, after a long conference with him, I felt still disposed to adhere to my original resolution, of being guided rather by Benoliel. Towards evening the wind got up, and at night increased to a gale. The dust was dreadful. A Sunday at Gibraltar is more remarkable than at any other place. Jews, Turks, Moors, Protestants, and Catholics, all keep it in their own way, and each in a different one.

Monday, Sept. 14.--The wind still very high, and the dust quite distressing. I waited on the Governor as soon as he came from the convent, and afterwards visited Benoliel. His Excellency recommended my going, and he was backed by Benoliel, but opposed by Mr. Hay. Dined again at the Governor's, where I met his chaplain, Dr. Burrows, a gentleman of great learning.

Thursday, Sept. 17.--Talked over matters with Mr. Hay, which are more satisfactory than I anticipated. Visited Benoliel, who is still disposed to assist me. Heard from him, that the son of the king of Jemma was here, on his return from Mecca, and I am not without hopes of being able to go with him. Walked out to the neutral ground; looked at the stock and slaughter-houses, and did some shopping. Feasted my eyes with a view of the blue Mediterranean, and the fine line of the mountains of Spain, as seen from the eastern side of the rock.

Friday, Sept. 18.--Went out to breakfast with Capt. Sheriff, and took Abou with me. The spot where he lives is very beautiful. There is a large garden, in which almost every variety of plants and fruits is to be found. He shewed me the use of Kater's circle, and offered me his own instrument; but I fear I shall make a sorry hand at it. Visited Dr. Burrows, and accompanied him to the library: it contains a good selection of books. I ran my eyes over some travels in Africa.

Saturday, Sept. 19.--The air much cooler. Paraded the town, and passed the afternoon in the library. Begin to feel tired of the place; and as I have to remain here a fortnight longer, I know not how I shall get through it. I am at little expense, except for coach-hire; but this makes invitations rather expensive. Hagee Assalam came with a dress for Abou; but it did not please me, besides it was far too dear; I have, therefore, ordered one from Tetuan. The musquitos are a real plague.

Sunday, Sept. 20. Went to the 'Ecclesia Nova,' and heard, as well as I could do in a building ill-suited for hearing, an excellent sermon from Dr. Burrows.

Sunday, Sept. 27.--

Monday, Sept. 28.--Walked to Alamada; afterwards attended the opening of the session, when a true bill was found against a Mr. Shervill, for dealing feloniously in slaves.

Tuesday, Sept. 29.--In the morning the weather was beautiful, but at night it rained tremendously. Called on Benoliel, to know about the presents .

Thursday, Oct. 1.--Attended the whole day, during which there was a great deal of rain, at the trial of Mr. Shervill, who was sentenced to an imprisonment for three years, and to hard labour.

Monday, Oct. 5.--Ascended the rock. Went to the Signal-house, and then to O'Hara's Tower; saw the monkies; descended the Mediterranean steps, and returned by St. Michael's Cave.

Wednesday, Oct. 7.--Rode to Europa Point. Saw the Governor upon the subject of a letter from Morocco.

Thursday, Oct. 8.--The feast of tabernacles. All the shops shut.

Sunday, Oct. 11.--Three packets arrived from England;--as yet no letters; hoped to receive some by the Governor's bag. Went to St. Roques'. Was disappointed.

Tuesday, Oct. 13.--Mr. Woolfe gave another lecture: it was nearly a repetition of the former one. I feel most anxious to be off.

Friday, Oct. 16.--Heard bad news, which was, however, not confirmed. Saw Benoliel, who was very kind; he brought with him a lot of presents.

Monday, Oct. 19.--Attended the meeting at Dr. Burrows, and was admitted the first honorary member of the Gibraltar Society.

Wednesday, Oct. 21.--Received a dispatch from Mr. Hay, inclosing a letter from the Sultan. I shall have to go to Mogadore; but I must not suffer such trifles to turn me aside from my purpose. I shall prepare to start, if possible, on Monday next. Wrote to Tetuan for Abou's clothes. The Philosophical Meeting went off extremely well to-day, and it is arranged for me to give a lecture before the Governor and the Society on Friday next.

Friday, Oct. 23.--The lecture went off, I hope, pretty well.

Saturday, Oct. 24.--Passed the morning in receiving visits of congratulation. I fear I am in for a second lecture, which, I suspect, will prove a bore.

Thursday, Oct. 29.--Gave the second lecture, and then went to St. Michael's cave.

Friday, Oct. 30.--At length I have made up my mind to start for Tangier. Saw Benoliel, and made some purchases.

Monday, Nov. 2.--Went on board with the party, but the wind blowing a gale from the East, caused the party to change their destination. I now mean to go to Tangier.

Tuesday, Nov. 3.--The first meeting of the Philosophical Society took place in the ball-room of the convent, and went off very well.

Thursday, Nov. 5.--A gale of wind, followed by rain, which comes down here with a vengeance.

Wednesday, Nov. 11.--Hazy and cold. Went round taking leave. Hope to be off to-morrow, and to get on shore on Friday, which is considered a lucky day amongst the Turks.

Friday, Nov. 13.--The weather cold. The gates shut. Went to Mr. Hay's, who was particularly kind; he has got me a beautiful Moorish horse. We paid our first visit to the Governor, which was a very satisfactory one.

Sunday, Nov. 15.--We intended to start for Tetuan at six A.M.; but as usual, the first start is a jib. We got off, however, at seven. The road was very heavy over a stiff clay. The first village we reached was Marranna. It is situated upon a hill, but presented nothing to interest us, except its numerous aloes, which were in full blossom; we counted not less than sixty in a space not larger than Grosvenor-square. The soil is very rich and the cattle are splendid. We then passed on to Djedo??di, through a most beautiful country, with every variety of hill and dale, of mountain and valley, and of wood and water. We took our meal at a well, and I contrasted the simple food of the sturdy Moors--their thin bread, dates, and water, with our own meat, eggs, and wine. In the neighbourhood are the ruins of a large castle. After resting half-an-hour, we continued our journey through a defile flanked by a wood, and having something like a road, near which was a Fantasia, which our kaid wanted us to see, and to bivouack there: but this we declined to do, and pushed on to El Bab, where, after frequent examination of our persons, and a lengthened palaver, we were admitted. The whole city was gone to bed. After groping our way, we reached at length the house of one Cohen, the interpreter to the Consul, Mr. Butler, who, in a most polite manner, got up to receive us. The thermometer at midnight stood at 40?, and we felt the cold very sensibly.

Tuesday, Nov. 17.--We got up early, having felt very cold during the night, when the thermometer was at 40?; received our present of sheep, fowls, and eggs, which we sent to Mr. Butler, who would have us dine with him. We then visited the gardens of the Sul??n and of the k??d, where we had a view of the country to the east; inspected the excavations and the pot-making; we afterwards forded the river. I cannot say I am fond of this fun. We then proceeded, through dreadful roads, to the Mar?na, the port, and returned home too late to see more of the town. After dining with Mr. Butler we took our leave, much delighted: the civilities of Mr. Levy and Mr. Butler I shall never forget. My expenses at this place were, one dollar a-day for bed and board; one dollar a-day to the soldiers who escorted us about the town and country; four to the one who took us from Tangier: two for each of the mules; half-dollar a-day for the beasts required for the promenade in the town and suburbs; two to the deputy-governor; one to his favourite soldier; one to his master of the horse; half-dollar to each of the negroes, and one peseta to each of the fifty soldiers.

Wednesday, Nov. 18.--Up at four A.M. Therm. 32?. A great deal of ice. The cold of this winter is unusually severe. We did not get out of the city till six. Halted at the same well as before. The journey requires from ten to eleven hours. We got in at five P.M., when we dined with Mr. Hay, who was exceedingly kind.

Thursday, Nov. 19.--The weather a little warmer, as the thermometer has got up to 42?. This place may be called the garden of the Tomans, the Ampelusian. Dined with Mr. Hay, where I met Mr. Hodgson. Although my letters have been despatched, accompanied by one to the minister at Morocco, I must say, I have little hopes of getting on.

Friday, Nov. 20.--Therm. 55?; much rain, and weather very unpleasant. Received a visit from the T?leb Hasan, who is a learned man. The letter sent to the Sul??n was enveloped in a silk handkerchief, and put into a tin case that cost two dollars; that to the minister, with similar appendages, cost one dollar. I paid, likewise, three dollars for the translation. On the day previous there was much lightning, which continued through the night.

Saturday, Nov. 21.--The wind has veered round to the west. My fellow-travellers think of returning. Not feeling very well, I have employed the day in writing and receiving visits; afterwards I walked out to the ruins of the old bridge. Paraded the town of Tangier, which is no great things. I like Tetuan much better. I have been annoyed all the day with the noise of a wedding celebrated after the fashion of the country. Pipes of the most horrid kind, compared with which the bagpipe is music itself, have an accompaniment of six drums; a calf was killed at the door of the cage where the bride is kept, like a hen in a coop. The noise of what they called singing continued through the whole night.

Tuesday, Nov. 24.--Saw the rest of the H?j?s, and consulted with Mr. Levy about proceeding on my journey.

Wednesday, Nov. 25.--Therm. 62?. Took my first lesson in Arabic; afterwards walked to the ruins of the castle of the old government-house. Another wedding in the evening, but, thank Heaven! it was a little further off.

Friday, Nov. 27.--Therm. 62?. Heavy rains the whole day. The atmosphere is such as frequently precedes an earthquake.

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