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Munafa ebook

Read Ebook: Notes taken during travels in Africa by Davidson John

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Friday, Nov. 27.--Therm. 62?. Heavy rains the whole day. The atmosphere is such as frequently precedes an earthquake.

Saturday, Nov. 28.--Weather fine and clear. Walked much about; went to the Arsenal, called the ruins of old Tangier. Received two or three patients. Ab? tells me, that a white Sher?f has been making inquiries about my character, religion, &c. Visited the sacred parts of the city, the tombs and the sanctuaries, near each of which is a tree of refuge.

Sunday, Nov. 29.--Went to church, and afterwards walked to the market, and then to the k??d's. At night there was a severe storm. Therm. 66?.

Monday, Nov. 30.--Therm. 66?. Heavy rains, with thunder and lightning. I had a little dealing for a R?f gun, but the fellow, after having sold it, would not let the Christian have it; and yet the mountaineer offers me his children as hostage, if I will advance him eight dollars to purchase a better one. I took him at his word; he is to return in five days. Some symptoms of the cholera have made their appearance; and, as the death-cry has been often heard, I am very anxious to get away. These rains are very unfortunate for me.

Tuesday, Dec. 1.--Therm. 62?. It is still wet, but very seasonable weather, for it will wash away the cholera. Not feeling quite well, I walked out towards P.M. As the question of payment is coming on again, the visit will prove very expensive; but the travelling must make up for it.

Wednesday, Dec. 2.--Therm. 58?. The Americans do not go up to Morocco. I am still waiting for an answer to my letters, but hope, nevertheless, to start on Friday, should the rain hold off.

Thursday, Dec. 3.--Start to-morrow for the Auts?t. I find I am getting into good training. Visited the Portuguese Consul-general. Found there a good party of Europeans, who were dancing in Africa, and playing at cards and drinking punch.

Friday, Dec. 4.--Rose early, hoping to start for the Auts?t; but as the rain had continued all night, deferred my departure till to-morrow.

Wednesday, Dec. 9.--Therm. 54?. Day very fine. Walked with Mr. Hay by the W?d B? B?rah, called also Jews'-river, along the ruins of the aqueduct, called El Kan?arah, and by the bridge up to Mount Washington. The road lay through a stiff clay, containing a large quantity of iron, of an ore-like incrustation. The house and garden at Mount Washington must have been at one time very beautiful; but the house is now a sad ruin, and the garden is overrun with weeds. We returned home through the worst road I ever essayed.

Thursday, Dec. 10.--A lovely day. The weather seems to have become settled again. Therm. 51?.

Saturday, Dec. 12.--Therm. 50?. The wind east, and with signs of rain. I am getting tired of stopping. On Monday, it will be four weeks since I sent my letter to the Sul??n. I do not feel very well myself, but my patient is better. We had a Moorish concert in the evening; it was a sad noise, but very characteristic of the people. At night there was a heavy storm.

Sunday, Dec. 13.--Therm. 48?. Went to church at the consul's. Received an answer from the Sul??n. It was accompanied by one to El H?jj Es-s?d?, the governor, who was required to send me forward on my journey with all marks of respect; to apprize the other governors and k??ds that they were to receive me with all respect and hospitality; to furnish an escort of ten horsemen, under the command of a k??d, for whom he had sent money; that the escort was to be under my orders, and to take care that my wishes were complied with; that I was to take my own time, and that every thing was to be done to my satisfaction.

Monday, Dec. 14.--Therm. 50?. Heavy rains, with but little chance of clearing up.

Tuesday, Dec. 15.--Therm. 56?. Continued rain and high wind. No boat would venture out. Had a patient with bad eyes.

Wednesday, Dec. 16.--Therm. 56?. Still wet. My hand again in my pocket to pay the Sul??n's escort. Mr. Hay has promised me his tent, and his son and Mr. Crusentolphe accompany me to Rab??. Heavy gale, and a boat from Gibraltar lost; crew saved.

Thursday, Dec. 17.--Therm. 50?. Clearing up a little. The new Sardinian consul has arrived; lots of saluting; the Moors did it quite as well as the little cutter that brought his Excellency. Went out and pitched the marquee. It will do, but it is no great things. Saw the father of the porters: his sons carry burthens, his daughters men. The blue-eyed one appears before the governor once an hour, or she would charge him with her destruction. I am now preparing to start in good earnest, although I do not feel very well.

Friday, Dec. 18.--Therm. 50?. The rain has passed off. A young chevalier, who came with the new Sardinian consul, is anxious to join our party. I shall endeavour to avoid this, as our tent is small, and my wish is to make as little show, and to incur as small expense as possible.

Saturday, Dec. 19.--Therm. 50?. The rain still holds off, as the wind is veering to the north. Visited the castle: the rooms are a good specimen of the Saracenic style of architecture. Rain again at one P.M. The chevalier I find to be a very intelligent person. It will be a hard matter to refuse him; besides, he might be of some service to me at his own court. But though I am much pleased with him, I have determined to say no.

Sunday, Dec. 20.--Therm. 50?. More rain has fallen during the night than we have yet had. There is little chance of getting the mules from Tetuan, and no sign of a boat from Gibraltar. Went to church; perhaps for the last time for some period.

Monday, Dec. 21.--The rain still tremendous. The weather is becoming colder. Therm. 48?. The whole appearance of the day unfavourable. Went to see some serpent-eaters and charmers. The reptiles are very fine; they neither eat nor are they eaten. This was the first night of Ramadan.

Tuesday, Dec. 22.--Therm. 47?. Weather beautiful, sky clear, and air cold. Waiting in great anxiety for Cohen and the mules from Tetuan. Saw a Jewish wedding. The poor bride was painted up to her eyes, which she kept closed, as she was led through the streets with torches and screams to the house of her husband.

Wednesday, Dec. 23.--Therm. 40?. The air very cold. At length I paid the k??d a visit: he was very civil. I then went to the castle, and procured three shields and two helmets, which I packed up, together with the guns. Ordered the escort to be ready for starting to-morrow. Received a letter from Cohen, stating that he should leave Tetuan on this day, while we are to be off to-morrow. How provoking?

Thursday, Dec. 24.--Therm. 40?. Up at six. All ready; but no mules. I heard, however, that they would be here at ten A.M. To-morrow, then, must be the day. It will be, indeed, a good Friday.

Wednesday, Jan. 12.--Therm. 50?. Up as soon as the moon rose, with the view of getting to Suwa?n?yah this evening. Dispatched two soldiers to Morocco, to inform the Sul??n of my arrival, and to learn where I was to lodge. From four to seven tried in vain to get off. It is plain that my k??d wants to make another day of it. To prevent this, I started, and took my baggage mules, to spite them; found I knocked myself up by walking very fast for four hours. I have, however, frightened them, and we halted at Suwa?n?yah, where I looked at a fine aqueduct cut through a limestone rock, for which the poor fellows got nothing. Water beautiful, but a little warm. We reached Suwa?n?yah about 5 P.M.; a large encampment was here before us, and the k??d of Azam?r had still to come up. We pitched our tents near the aqueduct and tank, with some tents from Fez, and at about 100 yards from the k??d of Azam?r. The same immense plain as the one mentioned before was covered with agates and jaspers; there were no trees, but a great quantity of a strong shrub. I felt a presentiment that something would happen; I therefore took down my sword and looked at my pistols, and turned in early, although not sleepy.

Thursday, Jan. 13.--Therm. 50?. I was right in my conjecture. At half-past twelve, the soldier who rode the white horse, and whom I had always suspected, gave an alarm of thieves. We got up in haste, and a fellow called 'Abd el Ker?m stated that he saw a man run between them. We turned in again, and at four A.M. poor Ab? came to me and said that he had been robbed of his jacket, which he always put under his head for a pillow, in the pocket of which was my gold watch, which I had given him to carry for safety. The k??d, in whose tent he had been sleeping as usual, could not account for the loss, and all wanted me to start. This I refused, and stated that I should wait till daybreak. I then dispatched all but three mules, and determined to go to the k??d of Azam?r; but as the people assured me they had already told him, I started, leaving behind my k??d, the soldier on the white horse, and 'Abd el Ker?m. Another k??d, who had the command of five soldiers, agreed with me in my suspicions that all was not right. After an interval of two hours, up came the remainder of the party with Ab?'s jacket, but no watch in it. They said they had found it near the tank, and my k??d asked, with great effrontery, if I did not mean to let the matter drop, as it was God's will that I should lose the watch. I replied, by bidding him come immediately to the k??d of Azam?r, whom we had overtaken, and told him he should answer for the loss with his head. I then passed on, the fellow crying, and we shortly arrived at a fine mountain pass, on issuing from which we had a view of Morocco. As soon as we reached the date-grove, we found the Sul??n and his troops ready to receive us with all honours. We passed the Tensif by el Kantarah, a bridge of eighteen arches, and stopped, according to custom, to wash ourselves. I observed my k??d and 'Abd el Ker?m in company with the Rifman who had the charge of the mules. They passed on without saying a word, when up came a soldier with a lad, who had confessed to the robbery, and stated that he had concealed the watch under the bridge. A pardon was promised him if he would point out the spot; but when he was let go, I felt sure that he was not the culprit, and sent after him. Upon his return, I told him that he would lose his hand, and perhaps his head, and I requested the person who was sent by the Sul??n to bid me welcome and to conduct me to his garden, to inquire of the lad where he had found the watch, and what he had done with the waistcoat. The lad replied he never saw the waistcoat. All of them, however, admitted that they had seen Ab? put the watch into the pocket of the waistcoat, and both under his head, and that he had so slept during the whole journey. The boy likewise added, he had put the watch into a tree, while 'Abd el Ker?m said, he found the waistcoat under the bridge. This convinced me that the lad had nothing to do with the robbery, and I bade them let the boy go, saying that he was not the thief. On this the blood of the soldier rose up, and he muttered a threat. I told him I cared nothing for his threats. They then charged him with having stolen other things, and pretended to put him under confinement. I arrived at the gardens of M?l?? M?s? at four P.M., after making the circuit of the city, and was ushered into the ruins of a palace. I was hardly off my mule, when the soldiers who accompanied me came first to demand a present, then the k??d, who had conducted me, and, lastly, the cleaners of the place I was to inhabit. The She?kh of the Jews likewise made his appearance to receive orders for what I wanted; and as I am unfortunately to live at the Sul?an's expense, it will cost me about four times as much as if I had to buy every thing. I continued to pay, however, till my pockets were empty. In my way to this place I had passed the village of lepers, and a sad sight it was. I then got rid of all the people, and laid down on the still wet floor of my large room, and was soon asleep, sadly disappointed with my first night at Morocco.

Saturday, Jan. 15. Therm. 51?.--Received a message from the b?sh? of the district, to know if I was comfortable. Amongst the visitors to-day were several saints, but they could not squeeze a drop from me. Visited the Millah or Jew's quarter; it was filthy to a degree. Had far more patients than I could attend to. Returned home, and got rid of the vermin I had picked up by way of fees. This is a great day with the Moslems; it is the 27th of Ramad?n, when free license is given to men and women. Received a present of cold food from Y?k?t, whose family I am attending. I had a long and interesting conversation with him. It appears that I am the only Christian in the place, with the exception of four French prisoners, who have assumed the Moorish dress. I went to a large house in the Millah, where I had a fine view of the city, with its palace, mosques, and granaries. I have been pestered by more saints, and my soldiers are quite horror-struck at the manner in which I treat these impostors. Another disturbance amongst the soldiers about the watch. K??d 'Al? thinks I shall not be safe unless I take some precautions; I have, therefore, placed his bed across my door, which he requests may be securely fastened.

Tuesday, Jan. 19.--Therm. 50?. Not very well. My door is actually besieged with patients. The father-in-law and the brother-in-law of the Sult?n, the Sherr?f, all are ill, or fancy themselves so. The son of the physician who visited me yesterday called to-day; by all these I was detained at home till 4 P.M.; I then went to the Millah. I find it is quite impossible to attend to all the patients; while I am in one house the inmates of the whole street collect at the door. The diseases that puzzle me most are disorders of the eye and sterility; and scarcely less perplexing is the complaint of the Moorish men. I must really shut up shop, or I shall be knocked up. In the evening there was a deafening roar of guns, trumpets, &c., as the moon is visible and the fast over. I suppose this will confine me at home to-morrow, although I have promised to go early to the Millah, where I have two very pretty but very troublesome patients. After to-morrow I shall see the Sult?n, and this will decide my future movements.

Wednesday, Jan. 20.--Therm. 51?. The house crowded with patients. I am quite tired of my trade. The garden is swarming with soldiers, as it is the first day of the feast. After dispensing medicines all the morning, I went to the Millah, where I found lots of lady patients, whose chief complaint was the want of children. Saw some very bad cases, and returned home, where I was pestered till dark. Received presents of cold fish. Feel not very well. Had a message from the Sult?n to say that I was to go to-morrow to see the city, upon one of its grand market-days.

Thursday, Jan. 21.--Therm. 50?. It has been very cold during the night. During the whole morning the house was crowded with patients. At noon, El H?j? came to take me to the Sult?n's garden in the city. Having first paid a visit to the K??d of Azam?r, where there was a large party at tea and talk, I proceeded to the garden of the Sult?n, where I found the Minister, the chief Taleb, the Clerk of the market, and the tenant of the gardens, M?l?? Ben Ali Ben Mus?l, a great friend of the Sult?n. Here I had to take tea again, and was then asked to dine. The conversation was entirely on medical subjects, and, as all said they were ill, I had to prescribe for them all. I was then taken into the garden, and asked if I could procure abortion, and how it was effected. I told them it was death by the English law to make even the attempt, at which they expressed their surprise. I was then asked, as I would not eat, to continue my walk in the gardens, where I felt certain the Sult?n was . After he was gone, I was shewn the ladies of all colours and ages, who were more pleased with me than I with them. I was detained there till four P.M., when I was told that the city gates were closed, as this was the day of the great feast. I then went to the Jewry to visit my patients. In the evening I received a message from the Sult?n to say that all the city would be closed on Sunday, but that I had permission to go when and where I pleased, and that I should always take soldiers with me, to command respect. I have been asked to visit the governor of the Meshw? to-morrow, to see what was his complaint. Retired to rest, quite done up, and unable to write any letters.

Monday, Jan. 25.--Therm. 47?. Up at break of day to see my patients; kept hard at work till half-past eleven A.M. Got my breakfast, and had a visit from the minister. Went to see the Sult?n's father-in-law, and then to the Millah; was so tired, that I determined to give up all my patients. Cohen went in the evening to the minister.

Tuesday, Jan. 26.--Therm. 50?, and rising to 80? at noon. Up at day-break again. Heartily sick of medicine, and threaten to throw physic to the dogs and burn my chest. Received a message from the Sult?n, requesting me to go and see his friend the B?sh? Ben Ibr?h?m; found him with at least one hundred men; then to the Sult?n's barber and bed-maker. After these, a Kaid came with twenty people. He was the first person who wanted to pay me. Afterwards I saw much of the city, the tomb of S?d? Ben 'Abb?s with its green roof and sides. The rats were crossing the road continually. The bashaw had fallen from his horse three months ago, when he received some bruises, for which he had been cupped and was covered with charms; but I think my physic will do more than all. He spat upon his arm and hand before I was allowed to touch him. Upon my making some inquiries as to the state of his bowels, he was completely at loss; nor could he understand what the stomach had to do with the pulse. I explained to him that there was the same connexion between the heart and other parts of the body, as there is between the root and branches of a tree, and between the spring and the works of a watch. I am to see him every day. I have been obliged to beg to be excused from waiting on the minister, as I am quite knocked up and ill.

Thursday, Jan. 28.--Therm. 54?. Up early to see my patients, all of whom are doing well. Have been obliged to order my doors to be closed. I cannot endure it any longer. I have not even time to take refreshment, and my head too is overworked. Went to see Ben Idris. There were four other persons there besides the minister; neither the conversation nor inquiries could be put with propriety on paper. My answers, however, were such as not to make them my friends. Heard again from Mr. Willshire. I have some suspicions of the K??d of Mogador.

Friday, Jan. 29.--Therm. 57?. Up early to visit my patients. I have quite won the bashaw's heart. I had this morning to examine all his ladies; Zara, Ayishah, Embrica, Henia, Mirima, Bettoula, Iemola, &c. &c. They were more pleased than I was. They were of all sizes, colours, and dresses. I was kept there two hours, and was nearly sick and somewhat excited. There were above two hundred of them. Went home and found there K??d M?sa; afterwards visited K??d Abdallah, from whom I heard much of the high favour I was in with the Sult?n. Went in the evening to see K??d Jel?b?, and on my return home found poor Ab? very ill, with symptoms of dysentery.

Saturday, Jan. 30.--Therm. 55?. Went early to K??d Abdallah, and thence to K??d M?sa, and then to El 'Arab?, while three persons carried the medicines. Returned home, and found a message from the palace. Dressed, and after a row with my K??d, I went to the Meshw?, and was then summoned to the palace. Passing through court after court, I came into the presence of the Sult?n, who was seated in an arm-chair in the blazing sun. Approaching respectfully, I tendered him my thanks for the kindness shewn to me. After making some inquires about me, he requested me to feel his pulse; and he then ordered his people to take me round his garden, after which I was called back, and found that all his ladies were to be gratified with a sight of us. During the promenade we met some slaves carrying dishes along the shady side of the garden, that had been sent from the Sult?n; another with sweetmeats; others with flowers: and at the gate there was a fine gold-coloured horse, the Sult?n's present to myself, and a mule to take me home. Congratulations came thick upon me, while my K??d was sadly in the dumps, to be at the palace to-morrow at ten A.M. I had no sooner reached home than fresh slaves were sent with fruits, and one with a china jar of dates, and an order for all the money that I had given away to be returned to me, and that if any one took money from me, his hand should be cut off, and if any one insulted me, his teeth should be drawn; and that I was to have one or a hundred soldiers, as I liked, and might go where I pleased.

Sunday, Jan. 31.--Therm. 54?. My patient, the K??d, getting better, I went at ten P.M. to visit the Sult?n, where I had to make a dose for his taster. Remained there some time, and left my bottle and one of my best handkerchiefs. Had my dinner sent home with me from the palace. Saw the chief eunuch and Jel?b?: prescribed for both. Met with some patients, who nearly drove me mad. They have a strange idea that women can keep dead children in the womb for years. Went again to K??d Jel?b?, and heard the same disgusting application. The news of the fall of Tlemsin was brought in seven days, which was considered quite wonderful. A telegraph would have done it in seven minutes. I had scarcely finished reading the service, when I was driven almost mad by the music sent to do me honour, and which I was compelled to endure till past midnight. The Sheik of the Jews, and others, were however highly delighted, and the beasts will remain continuing the noise till morning. I took up a fellow who had insulted me; I believe they would have cut out his tongue had I persisted. Grovelling wretched curs, they come to kiss my knees. Oh! that I could get away. Never was I so sick of any place as this. I am literally worn out. I hear there are some letters for me, which have gone by this place. Sunday, alas! no day of rest to me, and the noise greater than on any other day.

Thursday, Feb. 4.--Therm. 54?. Felt rather ill, worse, indeed, than most of my patients; suffering from want of rest: am pestered with the same host of people, and puzzled with their extraordinary complaints. Went to the palace, where I was tired out with questions; returned home, too ill to sleep.

Friday, Feb. 5.--Therm. 52?. Much rain during the night. Adaj getting well: I am longing to be off. Prepared medicines for the Sult?n. Am sick of the folly and ignorance of these people. Have sent to ask permission to see the Sult?n to-morrow.

Saturday, Feb. 6.--Therm. 57?. Found the bashaw so much better, that I sent to Ben Al? to request an interview, in the hope of being able to get away next week; my patients, to-day, have exceeded all that I have as yet experienced. I have now made a serious complaint, and have determined to shut up shop. Went to the Millah, and saw two Jews' weddings; at one of them the bride was not twelve years old. Received a letter from Mr. Willshire.

Monday, Feb. 8.--Therm. 54?. Went to Jel?b?; saw a few patients. Felt by no means well; returned home, when I received the two decalogues for the head and arm; three turns above the elbow, and seven between the elbow and wrist, thus making the ten commandments; tyed on the second finger of the left hand in hopes of getting a Saffir. I feel very desirous to be off: received letters from Mr. Hay, &c., and sent an order for the medicines.

Tuesday, Feb. 9.--Therm. 54?. Up early, and went to see Muley 'Ab? el W??ed , the uncle to the Sultan. No contrast could be greater than that presented by the two residences. Abd el Wahed preserved, nevertheless, his commanding aspect and smiling face. He was seated in a yard, with a water-skin lying in the middle of it; his room was without even a mat. The fine old man, who was well dressed, was reclining upon the remains of a carpet, with a small green velvet cushion to lean against, the last remnant of his former greatness. He requested me to feel his pulse and order some medicine, and afterwards to visit his sister-in-law. On my consenting to do so, I was ushered into a side-room, where there was no mat or carpet, and only a small pot of charcoal, at which sate a woman who would have made a mother of Coriolanus. She was in rags; but here and there was seen a jewel to mark her former state. Covered with a few blankets, the sick woman was lying on the ground; she was very ill. I promised to pay her every attention. I then asked for some bottles for the medicines, but they had not one; I then gave them directions about taking them, when the poor suffering creature said, "If it must be, make the time of taking them the time of prayer, as we have no watch--no anything." I promised to send them a bottle, and asked for a cup to shew the quantity in each dose. A small teacup was brought, all that remained for the use of the party. This was the only house where I entered without a soldier. I did not see a child. It was the very personification of misery; I hope I may be of some service to the poor creature. I shall never forget the scene; the woman at the fire, who might have been seventy years old, had a look which cannot be forgotten; and the words "God will reward you," were pronounced in a tone that still rings in my ears. Went in the evening to the Jew's wedding: first to the house of the bride's father. Here I found the poor creature seated on a raised chair, at the upper end of the long narrow room, which was filled with Jews, who were eating before her to the sound of timbrels and music, and around her the women were screaming. Her dress was beautiful and jewels fine; but her face was bedaubed with paint, and her whole person covered with a thin veil. She had been kept about an hour waiting my arrival: she was then carried out of the house, preceded by the timbrels, the Rabbis taking the lead and chaunting; all the persons, but myself and my soldiers, carried a light. In this way she was led to the S?k, where the friends of her husband claimed her, and she was carried to his house, where he had been undergoing a similar ceremony. Descending from his chair she was placed in it; the Rabbi then chaunted the service, and taking a glass of wine, he tasted it, blessed it, and gave it to the bride and bridegroom; he then put the ring into the hand of the husband, who placed it on the finger of the wife. The contract of marriage was then read, a psalm sung, and the bride was carried to the nuptial chamber, where she must remain seven complete days, nor leave home for a month; and then only to dine with her father. Slept in the Millah.

Saturday, Feb. 13.--Therm. at each hour from 7 A.M. to P.M., both inclusive, stood as follows:--56?. 58?. 67?. 85?. 86?. 91?. 91?. 96?. 75?. 68?. 65?. Lots of work at the palace and at Jel?b?s. Began to prepare stocks. Saw S?d? Ben Al?, and obtained permission to make arrangements for my departure. I am happy to hear that I am to get rid of my soldiers and to take others. Cohen went back with the money to Ad?j; but he compelled him to keep it. Passed some time with Ben Al?. The old boy has fallen in love with my watch. He says he will have it, if he sells himself for it: he offered two negroes. I have promised to give it him, if he will obtain for me one of the Sult?nah's dresses. He has acceded to my terms. As I shall be sure to lose my watch, I may as well get a dress for it. Abu was sent for twice to-day: there are some symptoms of a wish to keep him here, of which he is sadly afraid. Prescribed for Ben Zoar : he is a curious specimen of a nondescript animal, and more like a woman than a man.

Monday, Feb. 15.--Therm. 47?; rose to 99? at 1 P.M., then fell to 60? at 6 P.M. Had a great squabble, and almost a fight, in my room: refused to see any one to-day. Began paying and arranging; found it a difficult task to get away. Was visited by a pretty Jewess, she was brought to be examined for some complaint in the back; it was evidently the consequence of a miscarriage, but the Moorish and Jewish women will have it that it arises from carrying, what they say happens frequently, a dead child in the womb. The poor Jewish patient was willing to undergo a rigid examination, but I dared not; there were many conjectures about the reason for her coming. I find that I have offended the Shere?ff, and am glad of it. Wrote to Mr. Willshire, and am now only waiting for the mules, which arrived from Ter?d?nt this day; and as soon as they have sufficiently rested I shall start: every thing goes well. A severe thunder-storm was seen in the direction of Mount Atlas, but it did not reach here.

Tuesday, Feb. 16.--Therm. 56?. Up early, and sent off the baggage; although I fear I shall not get away to-morrow: bought two mules, with saddles and bridles, for about five dollars, but without stirrups. Had Abd el Kerim brought to trial; both he and the K??d were very much frightened. Received back my bottles and handkerchiefs from the Sult?n: went to the palace. Find it does not do to have one's servant a man of business, as Cohen is; he is too much occupied in his own affairs to attend to mine. Had a good deal of fun with Ben Ali and the ladies; making lots of friends: I am to see him again this evening. Received another present from the Sult?n, and have been requested to pass the palace in my way out of Marocco. I find the money going very fast, and have been sadly disappointed with my spurs, bit, and buckles. I expect a little disturbance to-morrow: turned sadler, to the great amusement of the soldiers. The ladies of the harem expressed their thanks for my amusing them with an acchordion. Ben Al? and myself have made a bet against my return. Saw old Hij?z? basking in the sun, had a long talk with him; he sent for me in the evening to see his wife, but I could not go. I am now to have only five soldiers, according to my own request, and shall get on much better. It is now six o'clock, and the mules are not yet ready: they are now killing the fowls which I am to dine on in half an hour; but as they did not make their appearance, I was obliged to be contented with some bad bread and butter. Went to the minister again with physic, and gave him a case of Seidlitz powders. Every thing is now prepared, and I am to be at the palace to-morrow.

Thursday, Feb. 18.--Therm. 40?. Started for the house of the K??d Ibr?h?m, who came to meet us with forty horse and his standard. He received me with all the honours of a salute; during which, one man was thrown from his horse. We remained there three hours, and then commenced ascending Mount Atlas. The first place we arrived at was Trasermoot, where I learned that a tax had been levied for me of 300 fowls and ten sheep. I went up to see the ruins: they occupy a circle of three miles, with walls, gates, baths, and arches: the last, however, have no key-stone. There are five walls, and the whole place exhibits signs of having been a strong position--in fact, a Gibraltar in miniature. I went in the evening to dine with the Jews--here called the sons of Yeh?di: they are a most extraordinary people. I never met with such hospitality, or such freedom of manner in any Jews. They had dancing and music, and the ladies mixed in society without the least restraint. I bought here several things. A great squabble took place, when the She?kh Berbo played the part of a scoundrel. These are the Jews who have each a berber-master. I have almost a mind to go back to Marocco to complain: the affair will, however, be not without its use, as it will furnish a good excuse for not stopping on the road. The elevation of the place is ......... feet. I have determined to make the best of my way to Mogador, after seeing War?kah.

Saturday, Feb. 20.--Therm. 50?. Our road is more beautiful as we proceed. We passed more than twelve millahs, at which we had milk, &c. We halted half an hour at a fine stream, where I got some specimens, and then came to Gurgal, a fine-looking place, where there are many gardens, plenty of water, and a curious tower. We arrived here at two P.M. The K??d came out to meet us with twenty horse: we had to remain here, although distant only twelve miles from War?kah. Our course had been S.W. and S.S.W., and Marocco now bears N.W. We saw many traces of the wild boar. The Shul?h came out with their dogs, and started some hares and flushed some partridges, but caught nothing. We walked down to the river, which runs at the foot of the hill on which this place stands: I collected a few specimens, and found many boulders of granite, generally a speckled stone: the water was slightly ferrugineous. The Jews here can give no information: they have not resided here more than eleven years. We are to go to-morrow to Almishmish.

Sunday, Feb. 21.--Therm. 47?. The She?kh's brother was brought to me: he had been shot by somebody while he was in the mosque: the ball had entered the left breast, passed through the ribs, and came out at the shoulder: it was a bad case. We could not get off till half-past nine A.M. We crossed the river, and after losing our way, and passing more than thirty villages, the people wanted to stop, but I insisted on proceeding. Our road was very beautiful, but trying, as we continued to ascend. Some of the ravines surpass any thing I have ever seen. We passed several tanks, built along the route, for the convenience of travellers: the water was fine: I picked up many curious specimens. At three P.M. we crossed the river Nef?sah, a noble stream; above which stands the town of El-Arj?n, where we saw the women's heads dressed fantastically with flowers, and some fakirs adorned with curious ornaments. We did not reach Almishmish till just before dark. The She?kh S?d? Mohamed Ben A?med is a great K??d, who sent us lots of presents. This, which I hoped would be an easy day, turned out the hardest of any we had travelled. My horse is so knocked up, that I find we must remain here the whole of to-morrow.

Monday, Feb. 22.--Therm. 50?. There was a little rain during the night. I have been so bitten by fleas, that I look like a person with the small-pox. Our journey yesterday was twenty miles, W. by S. and W.S.W.; we went a part of the way up the dry bed of a river. I found here some varieties of mixed stones, and a spring nearly equal to that at Vaucluse: there were numerous mills scattered through the country, which was very beautiful. We went to breakfast with the K??d in his garden; it was done in great style. Received lots of presents, and had many patients, especially some old women; amongst the rest, there was brought to me a man who had been attacked when employed in the fields, and had both of his arms broken and half of his nose cut off: I replaced the piece of the latter and set the arms, for which I had to manufacture splints. These are a strange people; when I had finished, the fellow did not even say 'thank you.' Many of the ladies here are ill, but I have no remedy for them. The chief of the Jews sent for me, to shew his hospitality; but I have no appetite, and they are miserable unless one eats and drinks to repletion. I must, however, pay him and his household a visit, although their filth is dreadful; and I am covered with vermin that have emigrated from my patients. Long--very long, will it be before I forget this visit. The K??d's brother, and one Haj? H?med, are great drunkards; the man's wife is half naked, but loaded with ornaments. I was struck equally with the profusion of the viands devoured and the quantity of brandy gulped down: the room was covered with filth and kelp, in which there is a great trade carried on here. It was impossible, however, not to be pleased with their hospitality and good-humour, despite the lice, which was an honour I could well dispense with. Returned home about eleven, P.M.; it was very cold.

Tuesday, Feb. 23.--Therm. 50?. It turned very cold. I remarked on the road the strange manner of keeping their corn in large baskets, plastered over, and set on the roofs of the house, where they present a very odd appearance. Received presents again before starting, which did not take place till nine, A.M. We met with three old women, who could have played the witches in Macbeth admirably: our road was beautiful, but my horse very unmanageable. Our course was W. by S. for two hours, and then W.N.W. After skirting the mountain, we halted at one, P.M., in a fine brush-wood, where there was a fine cover for a quantity of game; we then started again, our course being W. by S., and made about twenty-six miles, and rested for the night at K??d S?d? Ben Mohammed's Mik?d; the place is called Seifel M?l, on which he has laid out much money. No sooner were we in the house than I had a host of patients. The K??d himself, a man of seventy years old, wants to take some medicines, for the purpose of knowing what kind of stuff it is, and how he shall feel after it, having heard all the people talk of my physic: he shewed me his harem, consisting of ten or twelve ladies. Our room, which is very ruinous, is fifty feet long, and only six wide. I confess I was pleased with the candour of mine host, who said, when taking away his carpet, that it was full of fleas, and he supposed I should prefer my own fleas to his. I wish, with all my heart, he had taken his mats also; we never had so bad a night--almost devoured by vermin. We are now promised to be at Mogador to-morrow evening.

Thursday, Feb. 25.--Therm. 57?. Off at seven, P.M.; much rain had fallen during the night: we were compelled by the country hills to vary the direction of our course to W. by N.; we passed by many villages, and many ruins. At noon we entered a large wood of the argan, from which an oil is extracted; it is a low and bushy, but fine tree; there was also a good deal of carraway, &c. Through a country not so well cultivated, we entered H?h?, through which we continued our journey till four P.M., when we fell in with the great road leading from Marocco. We then entered an immense wood, which took us two hours to traverse, and came out upon the most extraordinary sand-hills I ever saw; from their tops Mogad?r was visible, but as night was coming on we dispatched a soldier at eight P.M. When we arrived at the city, we found that Mr. Willshire was with the governor. The former took me to his house, where I made myself comfortable with a glass of porter: I remained there till midnight, and then threw myself on his bed.

Friday, Feb. 26.--Therm. 58?. Heavy rains. Had not much sleep: the porter too strong for me. Occupied the whole day in unpacking and removing to my own house: found some difficulty with the soldiers. Saw the agent of the She?kh of W?d N?n, and in the afternoon the brother of the She?kh; they fear the Sult?n will stop me, and that I shall have to go back; but I shall make the acquaintance of the She?kh, and though I am prepared to go back, if necessary, still, I shall endeavour to get away, and go down to W?d N?n, and take my chance. Rained the whole day: returned home, and went early to rest.

Saturday, Feb. 27.--Therm. 56?. Heavy rain, with a high sea, and much swell. As this is an idle day, I went to look at the horse, and in the afternoon walked round and outside the town, accompanied by Mr. Willshire; it is a finer one than any I have yet seen in Marocco: there is an air of comfort and business about it quite uncommon; it has a good market. Met the people coming in from hunting the live Dil.

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